AlaskaTubber

"Great Success" Called electrician. He listened to it for about 3 seconds (without even looking at the guts) and said, "You have a capacitor somewhere that is dead." Sho-nuff, located a capacitor on top of the motor. He pried off the cap and put it on a volt-meter. Deader than a door nail. Replaced capacitor and zoom-zoom-zoom. Still very appreciative of all the advice. Was definitely a learning experience and though it took some time I understand the workings better. Thanks again for all of the guidance.

Changes made. All set up fro 120V: White wire is now on P7, jumper 1 covering the two pins to the right. This did not affect anything. BUT... I was cycling through the buttons and totally accidentally pushed them too fast. If it is on Lo and I push it TWICE it jumps to Hi and Hi actually works! It will run on Hi for 1-2 hours, then click off (shows temp) until it tries to run again at which point it hums, clicks off, and shows the FLO error. (Then I flip the breaker and start over.) *When it is running on high for those 1-2 hours it actually heats the water about 7-8 degrees. (As of this moment tub temp is 101.)

I am very appreciative of the advice and guidance, but I think I have reached my limit on what I feel I can adjust on my own. I will probably ask my semi-local semi-electrician if he can run some diagnostics (and maybe confirm the set up as 120 v 240). It may also be that at 10 years this thing has simply had its run. I did learn a lot in the last few days and have a much better understanding of the ins and outs of the system. Any last thing I should check? Thank you.

I am 90% sure it is 120 - the breaker in the panel is 120. White and red jumpers are all the way in. (According to schematic this is the 120 set up, correct?) The thick red wire has a wirenut on the end (terminated). White wire from PUMP is going to P18. (May be the culprit, but has been rigged this way prior to me moving in.) Jumper 1 is/was only covering 1 pin. (See photo to verify, I removed black wire to inspect. Only see one “crimp” on wire. Only one screw in jumper.)

Here is a photo of the unit the previous owner left behind. If this gets any more technical than replacing a fuse or plugging in a wire I would hire an electrician to connect it (if that is a potential fix), as there are just too mamy wires running around in there for me to feel comfortable.

“... no high speed...just humms and clicks off. It will run in low but not heat and does not throw any error codes.” - CORRECT If left on low, it will eventually kick to high (I assume to try and heat), then hum, then click, and then show solid FLO code again. I have a multi-meter. Here are the photos of the currently installed unit:

...and one more thing... I called the store it was purchased from. They suggested cleaning the Ozone Injector. I couldn't quite understand their instructions (included disconnecting the tubing and putting it in vinegar) but what they described does not match how my system looks. Is this even worth a try? If so, I can YouTube it. (They were very cautious about potential build up of some type of acid in the tubing, and to use gloves/goggles).

It just reads FLO solid (not flashing) and no dots. Here are the photos. Thank you. IMG_0735.HEIC IMG_0736.HEIC IMG_0737.HEIC IMG_0738.HEIC IMG_0739.HEIC

Brand: Hot Spot Model: Dash Built: 2010 Observation 1: Opened cover, not running, water lukewarm, tub full, panel reads "FLO". Response: Pushed button once (hi jets), makes humming sound. Pushed again, lo jets come on (as they should). Turned off jets, removed filter. Pushed buttons again, same result. Turned off power at breaker, reset, shows temp (95 degrees), push buttons, same response. If left on first push (hi setting) will eventually click, stop humming, and FLO code reappears. Turned off power at breaker, cracked open various fittings, determined water is flow through system. Refilled tub with water, turned breaker back on, nothing changed. Let run on lo setting, water never heated up (still 58 degrees), about 30 minutes later blows breaker. Reset breaker just to check progress, still runs on low only, 58 degree water. It has sat with the power turned off at the breaker for a few days now. What to do next??? If there were a tech or dealerhip available in my area, I would totally call one - but there isn't. I have read some posts that talk about getting a multimeter and checking all of these various circuits, which is within my skill set, but I wouldn't know how to fix that type of problem even if i found it. Sidenote: I have lived in this house two years. About a month after moving in the circulation pump went out. I ordered a new one and replaced that on my own. The previous owner left a new heater unit ("S-Class" blue plastic box about 12"x12"x4" with cylinder underneath and mounting feet brackets - looks exactly like what is already hooked up there). I am not comfortable hooking this up (there are too many wires that go too many different places), but there is a semi-local sometimes electrician I could get to do that piece. Thoughts? Much appreciated.