ratchett

Prices vary wildly from dealer to dealer. Even if you find someone who paid $5000 less for the exact same make/model spa last week across the country, your dealer won't care and won't haggle - especially since the hottub industry saw a huge surge in sales during the pandemic. Every dealer operates on their own profit margins - some dealers have more competitive pricing than other dealers. Be sure to research the dealer thoroughly - you'll be stuck with them for the duration of the warranty, so be sure you trust them to do a good job if/when the spa needs warranty repairs. The dealer is almost as important as the brand you buy. Be sure to review customer feedback online about the dealer, and find out what the dealer charges for callout fees (and most importantly - how many years do they include free dispatch/callouts for warranty service). If you really want to haggle on a new tub, your best bet is if you're paying full cash money. Dealers often include a 3% or 4% processing fee in the advertised price to account for people paying with credit card (for reward points), or people financing the tub (processing fee). You have a good chance to haggle that 3% off if you are paying full cash money for the tub. Also know that some states offer a sales-tax exemption if you have a doctors (or chiropractor's) note stating the spa is "medically necessary" - that could save you hundreds off the final price.

Did you recently refill the tub? Try removing the filter, does the issue persist?

Think of it like driving a car - do you get better gas mileage driving down the highway with or without cruise control activated? When your spa is well insulated internally (which as a sundance 800 series, is well insulated), and with the cover closed - the heater is only activating in short bursts to maintain the set water temperature. When you increase temperature, the heater must remain on until the tub reaches desired temp - this consumes a substantial amount of electricity and takes time to heat up. With how well your spa is insulated, the electrical running cost difference between turning down the temp and leaving it at set temp is negligible - less than a dollar or two per month. In the winter, I crank my tub up to 104/105 so I can enjoy a nice hot soak on the rare night where it actually chilly in my subtropical climate. In the spring/fall I run around 101F, and in the summer I set it to 99F so it's just a smidge warmer than body temp.

I'm no expert - but that almost sounds like a priming mode where the jet pump is trying to push out an air-lock in the system. When you refilled, did you fill through the filter well? Did you bleed any air out of the plumbing internally? That's the first thing I'd try

First, that sounds like a reasonable price for that size and product line. Jacuzzi's J300 series is a mid-grade product from Jacuzzi. It'll get the water hot, and the jets will produce some therapudic spa experience, but not the *best* that jacuzzi has to offer. Have you looked into Sundance Spas? They are Jacuzzi's sister brand - built in the same factory and share many of the same components. I bet you could step up to a Sundance 800 series like the Optima which would be a step up from the J385, but you would loose the "jacuzzi" brand name on the logo. I personally am a Hotspring Highlife fanboy - they are a step up from the J300 series, built to compete more with Jacuzzi's J400 series spas. The Grandee or Vanguard is probably large enough for your needs. However, pricing varies WILDLY around the country as all dealers operate on different profit margins. In my own experience I saved 20% on my desired Hotspring spa by visiting two dealers equidistant from my rural home - one was a big backyard makeover shop selling many big ticket items, and then the other dealer was a small family business selling only one product for decades - hotspring hot tubs. No haggling needed - this was their pricing. As I'm sure you've read before - the dealer you buy from plays a huge role in your ownership experience. Be sure to read reviews online about the dealer and get thorough with the warranty coverage - what parts are covered for how long and more importantly - how many years does the dealer include free dispatch/callouts for warranty service? Lastly - WET TEST! If at all possible - wet test a spa from the same product series you want (doesn't have to be a J385, just something in the J300 series). Things like seat comfort and jet comfort are very subjective - you might find those tiny bullet jets used by some cheap brands to be too itchy and uncomfortable (they use these small cheap jets because it increases jet-count which gets a shopper's juices flowing because surly more jets = better experience). Also horsepower ratings can be heavily manipulated for marketing purposes - do not trust that one tub is more powerful because it has a 3.0hp jet pump while another brand has a 2.5hp jet pump. Wet testing is the only way to know for certain if you like XYZ brand of tubs and that product series.

Are you certain you have a matching set of topside controller and main control board? I'm a little hazy on the details, but right around 2012/2013 Watkins/Hotspring had a problem where the manufacturer of the original control boards (Orca - 76082) went out of business and Watkins had to rebuild a new control board (Orca 78039) to replace it. From what I gather, the new Hotspring control board, sensors, and topside controller are not cross-compatible. This was a fiasco for Watkins/Hotspring as a lot of owners didn't want to spend the $1500+ to upgrade their spa pack on a tub just out of warranty when something went wrong. By this point most of the old stock has been bought up from online dealers, and hottub junkyards are picked over for these old parts frequently making them very hard to find. Depending when your tub was manufactured, you might have the older control board and that might be why the sensors and topside controller aren't working correctly. I'm not a Hotspring technician, so I could be completely wrong, but I believe the age of the tub makes it a possibility.

To me that sounds like maybe a failing capacitor which isn't producing enough juice to fully start up the motor. But I could be wrong. @RDspaguy or @CanadianSpaTech - what does that sound like to you?

Yep, that's correct - Hotspring Hot tubs utilize two breakers - if you have an existing subpanel you can grab a 20 amp and 30 amp breaker and wire it up. Be sure to study the wiring diagram on the hot tub thoroughly. Many novice electricians mistakenly wire up a Hotspring tub like a standard hot tub and it doesn't work correctly (but they often try to wire up to a single 50-amp breaker - unlike you who actually did your research first lol)

You could have a clog in the plumbing. There is a pressure sensor which is designed to monitor water and ensure your hot tub heater doesn't kick on without adequate water in the tube to prevent damage to the heater. Either you have a legitimate flow issue due to a clog, or you have a failing pressure sensor (which can happen - they do fail eventually and it's not uncommon). If you're handy with a multimeter I believe you can test the pressure sensor to see if it's working and reading correctly or if it's failed. If it's failed, it's cheap/easy to replace. If the pressure sensor is working correctly, that means you either have a dirty filter (which is preventing adequate water to flow through plumbing), or you have a clog somewhere in the line. But I could also be wrong - I'm still a novice learning the technical workings of a hot tub. I'm by no means a professional.

Image doesn't show up. Hate to say it, but for most hot tubs, the owner's manuals is usually extremely limited in information (mainly showing the buttons and how to operate) - most of the manual is full of legal mumbo-jumbo and warranty info. Basically the manual is useless for most customer's needs. Instead of hunting for that, why not post a question here about what you're trying to figure out. Coast Spas uses off-the-shelf industry standard components so even if someone doesn't have the exact same make/model they can likely point you in the right direction.

That's why wet-testing is always so important - jet count numbers can be inflated using tiny bullet jets and horsepower ratings can be faked using higher voltage on the testing bench making it basically an irrelevant number these days. Wet testing is the only way you can know for sure if you'll enjoy the therapeutic spa experience of those jets. I'm a huge Hotspring Highlife fanboy, but you might also want to try wet-testing some Sundance/Jacuzzi, Caldera/Hotspring spas to see if you find anything you enjoy. I'm glad I had a chance to wet test some spas in 2019 before the dang pandemic ruined things for everyone lol. Dealers only recently started allowing customers to wet-test spas again

First, not all loungers are built the same. Also buoyancy changes in this lounging position - From what I understand here in America, most loungers are built for the average height (around 5'10") and average BMI (20-30). If you're too short or have a higher BMI you might have trouble staying in the lounger without floating out when the jets are running. Some would say if you like to recline on a couch/chair, you'll like lounging. But lots of dealers will claim that many second-time buyers who had a lounger in their first tub skip it on their next tub because it was unused wasted space. I personally had never had used a lounger in a hot tub but knew I had to have it because I enjoy lounging on a recliner in general. I was torn between two models - a three seater with a lounger, or a four seater without the lounger around the same price price and glad I opted for the lounger because it's our favorite seat it he spa. I use the lounger 95% of the time I'm in my spa. That said, it's generally advised to wet-test a lounger from the brand you're interested in before buying (all loungers from the same product tier/class should have the same design and shape profile). Because if you have buoyancy problems, you're going to hate the lounger haha. People suggest that if you can't wet-test a lounger, you should skip it because the last thing you want is a large unused lounger taking up one side of the hot tub.

Why do you think that? Because you're seeing bubbles when the ozonator is running? That's the mazzei injector which sucks the ozone (and air) into a stream of water running through the line. Just because you're seeing bubbles when the jets are off from the vent doesn't guarantee ozone is being generated. Given the age, I'm dubious that it is still functional and producing ozone after twelve years (the lifespan on my Hotspring's ozonator is like three years). I'm afraid my knowledge of saltwater comes from pools and Hotspring Spas so I won't be able to help much with the Arctic Onzen system. However, I know that saltwater generation does require soft water - softer than usual. If you have hard water you likely either need to use a portable water softening unit or a vanishing act pillow (hotspring product - single use) to lower the hardness after filling. Additionally, phosphate levels have a major impact on the lifespan of the salt cells in the system. The lower the better (none if you can help it!) - phosphates can come from many sources (moisturizers/lotions on skin, fertilizers, even some soapy clothing detergents used to wash bathing suits). High phosphates can kill a Hotspring salt cell (built to last four months) in less than six weeks so it's certainly something to keep in mind while messing with the system. Best of luck to you sorting things out. I have a saltwater pool (which works great), and my hotspring is compatible with the latest generation Saltwater technology from them - but I still opted to skip saltwater in my hot tub. It's more of a hassle than it's worth (in my opinion).

How old is the hot tub? Can you hear the relay click on when you press the jets button or does it sound different? What happens when you actually press the button? Does it make any sounds? Have you tried to remove the filter and see if the problem persists?

I'm in central Florida. My Hotspring Highlife spa is in direct sun almost all year round. My tub/cover is about 30 months old and still holding up (although I likely will get only another year or so before it's completely shot) The secret is to wash the cover monthly with mild dish soap and water. Let it dry and then apply a coating of 303 Aerospace protectant - this helps extend the lifespan of vinyl when exposed to direct sun. Note that not all aftermarket covers will form-fit as nicely as the OEM cover - so you might not get the same energy efficiency when the lid is closed. That said, be aware that if you do get a different brand and have a Hotspring coverlifter, you're going to need to ensure that the cover has "reinforced" side walls so the cover lifter can mount to it.

Pretty sure on my Jetsetter that could be an indication a temperature sensor has failed (easy to test with a multimeter, and easy/cheap to replace)

https://www.thespaworks.com/sites/default/files/2005_sundance_850_series_owners_manual.pdf Page 24 of this manual should show you how to set filter cycles I'm sure some will disagree, but I would advise fixing the leak properly instead of using a bandaid product. "Fix a leak" is a short term fix which gunks up the plumbing and internal components more than it's worth. It's kinda like using draino in your sink to fix a clogged drain. There's a reason why plumbers call it "paycheck in a bottle" - it's caustic enough to eat through lead pipes before it can eat through a fully clogged drain.

Might need to be reset - try pressing and holding top right corner of screen for 20 seconds - does the unit reset? If not try removing battery for 10 seconds and reinstall. If that doesn't help, call your dealer - might be covered under warranty. Nope, we're talking about the wireless topside controller for all Hotspring Highlife models made since 2019 (and NXT models 2014-2018) Hotspring Highlife spas made 2019+ (and NXT models 2014-2018) have a wireless touchscreen topside control which is battery powered and floats. It's also wireless charged so you can use a wireless phone charger in the house to power the remote so you can monitor or control the tub in the house (I like to do this when monitoring heatup temps after a refill). In theory they sound great. In practice however...... the rubber seal on the battery can get mangled on installation, water intrusion can ruin the remote, or careless kids can drop/break the expensive remote. The terrible part is that they cost hundreds of dollars to replace so it's best to baby them as much as possible (leave them on their dock, don't leave them floating in the water, etc) - if you kill the remote, there are only two physical buttons on the charging dock: "Jets" and "lights" - no temperature controls, settings, etc. As much as I love my Hotspring Highlife spa, the wireless remote is one of my least favorite features - I'm not looking forward to spending $600+ to replace it if/when it fails (or I drop the dang thing because I'm a clumsy fool sometimes haha)

No that won't help. You'll get more energy efficiency by adding extra insulation to the tub if there is none between the cabinet and shell walls. Problem is that tub only has a front access panel (which is where electronics and pumps are located - you can't necessarily fill that area with extra insulation). Maybe if the bottom is open you can stuff extra insulation through there? I have a small 200gallon three seater which is very well insulated and my operating costs in the winter are less than $20 a month.

Most spas from that generation are built with pressure-treated lumber framing which used to contain arsenic - this greatly extended the lifespan and rot-resistance of the wood. Modern PT lumber made after 2002 contains copper which is more eco-friendly, but also more susceptible to rot in a shorter period of time (especially when exposed to moisture like a leak inside the cabinet). Industry average for modern spas is roughly 7-14 years depending on care/maintenance. As mentioned - hot tubs have the best lifespan when left filled with water and operating. But it's rare to see modern spas running for 20 years - they exist, some even from the 80's are chugging along, but it's really rare to find. If I were buying a spa that old, I'd want to see it filled with water, heated to temp, and running. I'd want to walk around and check the tub for any leaks, as well as look inside the cabinet for any signs of leaks. However in reality, unless that tub was stored indoors (like a patio or basement), I'd have my concerns about it's lifespan. Even if you get the tub for free and put $2000+ into repairs, you still might not get many years before it's completely shot. My advice would be to pass and watch the local classifieds for any newly-listed spas which you can see filled with water and running in the photos. The best deals get scooped up fast, but you can often find a fully functional spa for around $4000 to $6000 with plenty of life left in it. Two years ago I saw a beautiful two-year old $15000 Hotspring Highlife hot tub selling for $7000 - it sold in less than 24 hours haha

I suggest starting a new thread. But both beam and flash spas are in the same product tier - they will have similar construction/lifespans. The biggest difference is seating and jet configurations. The jet-feel between both spas will be similar with a difference being where and how many jets are located in each seat. I personally am a bigger fan of the Hotspring Highlife class spas which are built in a different factory with different materials (which can extend lifespan and increase energy efficiency). But Highlife spas are only worth the $$ if you really like the motomassager jets (some do, some don't want/need it)

I would start a new thread. However in general, inflatable spas are not built to be serviced/maintained - they are built to be low cost. They do not have a long enough lifespan to justify the money and hassle. If you want to attempt anything, look into buying a used working hardshell portable hot tub and mod something which will last more than 3-4 years max.

Most of my raw material suppliers increased their prices over the past year - so far I haven't been seeing any increase in raw material prices this year, however transportation/shipping costs are continuing to climb like crazy - even a small parcel shipping around the world via USPS FirstClass postage which used to cost $14 a few years ago is now $29 USD for a 3 ounce box. On the retail side of things - I'm certainly seeing a slow down as gas prices surged. I think everyone is taking a step back and watching/waiting to see what happens next. Sadly as usual, the price will raise, but never come back down. I know many small businesses have been trying to avoid raising prices and eating some of the additional costs these days to keep business coming in, but it sure is getting rough lol. Depends on the type of drone you want to get. For racing drones you want to build them from scratch so you can rebuild after a nasty crash and keep flying. They come in many sizes (my favorite are the 2.5 inch and smaller FPV racing drones which can fit into the palm of your hand and turn a small park into a 3-dimensional obstacle course) I love the thrill of wearing that fpv headset and sitting in the cockpit of a drone zipping around at speeds over 60mph with extreme agility in ACRO mode If you want a camera drone, you can pick up a nice used DJI for under $600 which flies like it's on rails - up/down, pan/tilt, fully stabilized gyro for the camera (to keep camera focused in rough wind), 4 mile range, return to home on low battery with obstacle avoidance systems to prevent crashing into anything. Even more fun is grabbing an DJI FPV headset with the active head-tracking system engaged so you can throw a drone up in the air and park it for 20 minutes while you get the best view around. I loved my racing drones but it's impossible to stay still long enough to get a good "look" around at 300 feet up with all the wind jostling you around, so I picked up a cheap DJI drone for fun. They are a completely different beast, but so easy to fly - less than 10 minutes and even a child can be safely flying it around the back yard (although I wouldn't risk it! lol)

I suggest starting a new thread with some photos of the issue. Watkins acquired the Freeflow brand in 2012. It'll be really difficult to find any replacement parts for that item unless it is an industry standard part (in which case, photos will help greatly).

Spa Guard Enhances shock contains 58.2% dichlor. The remaining chemicals include sodium persulfate, aluminum sulfate, and boron salt. Source: MSDS Sheet - https://www.hydropool.com/downloads/MSDS/spaguard/spaguard-enhanced-shock-msds.pdf