ratchett

Well, CLDF is a low flow error code. You've tried a new filter and removing the filter. That eliminates those variables from the equation. You've tried refilling (have you tried bleeding? Is there a bleed valve?). Assuming all that checks out, it sounds like it could be a bad flow sensor which can go bad over time (common failure point on many older tubs). But that's the extent of my technical support knowledge lol, good luck getting it back up and running!

That's a wise decision - always see the spa running before you buy. Tip - professionals watch the classifieds for deals on used tubs to flip and resell for a profit. You *can* get a deal shopping used, but you have to know what to look for and watch the classifieds daily, sorting by recently-listed. If a tub has been sitting on the classifieds for a week+, it's either garbage or overpriced and not worth your time. I usually see a good deal on a functioning spa for less than $3k or $4k in my local classifieds once a month, sometimes more often.

OP hasn't been logged back to site since December 30th 2011, highly unlikely they'll be back. However @RDspaguy recently refurbished a Hotspring Prodigy (smaller than sovereign, but same construction quality) and published some photos which you might enjoy over here - https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/52536-ever-wonder-what-biofilm-looks-like/

Most owner's manuals are relatively useless. Lots of second-hand owners come onto forums looking for manuals and don't find what they're looking for (things like water care, parts lists, plumbing diagrams, etc are rarely added to the manual) Fortunately most spas use relatively industry standard components and the only real custom items are the shell and cabinet designs. I believe the Keys Backyard spas use Balboa components which are one of the top two brands for spa packs. I suggest starting a new thread - snap some photos of your spa's equipment area, the wiring diagram, and some close-ups of the main board (so the guys can look for signs of damage or possible wiring issues). Ask away in that thread any questions you have in particular, I'm sure one of the regular techs who peruse this forum will chime in with some insight if possible.

Well if the self-test function on the breakers are not operational then the breakers to be replaced as they are no longer safely protecting you. I'm no expert but I know the guys around here will ask for you to snap some photos of the wiring diagram, and the control boards/heater so they can look for any signs of failure. Also, are you comfortable with a multimeter and testing high voltage electricity? If not I'd advise contacting your local Hotspring dealer to get a quote for replacing the breakers (at a minimum) and then diagnosing the heater issue.

@Jeepers22 I'm a Hotspring Highlife fanboy, but between those two spas my vote is entirely for the J355. The J300 series has been around since at least the 90's and Jacuzzi is obviously the oldest name in the industry (seriously, the J350 was available way back in the early 90's - slightly different styling but same general seat layout!). The J300 series is a cut above the average mid-grade hottub in the industry in my book. I was seriously looking at a Jacuzzi originally before I found my Hotspring Jetsetter, but back then in 2019 the styling of the J300 series was hideous, the redesigned 2020 styling is much more sexier in my opinion (more befitting of the name brand and price point). But as others have said - be sure to ask the local dealer about call out fees, not all dealers for the brand have the same callout fees. My dealer for example includes five years free callouts and warranty service on most components (but not all), although some dealers only offer six months to a year free callouts before charging a diagnostic fee to come out and look at your tub.

Doubt he'll be around anytime soon.... he hasn't been here in six years

How old is the spa (a serial number can be decoded to determine age). Is this the flashing light on the front logo? If so that should mean high limit sensor has tripped (test water temperature - is it over 108F or is it colder than set temp?). Also since I know the guys are gonna ask, take some photos of the wiring diagram and the control board, etc. If you see any scorch/burn marks around anything try to get a closeup photo and post them here.

Jeez, I paid $8400 for my 110V Hotspring Highlife Jetsetter less than two years ago - that's a huge step up from the Hotspot line for only about 22% more in price I think Aquaterra sells some spas which fit that size constraint - they're also watkins spas

Literally every brand worth buying is jammed up right now. Not only have there been countless supply-chain breakdowns over the past year, there has also been an unprecedented surge in demand for hottubs - everyone stuck at home the past year made the decision to improve their home life every way possible, including hottubs and backyard makeovers. Back in November 2019 when I purchased my spa, every name brand was no more than 3-5 weeks lead time for special orders if it wasn't in stock. By the summer of 2020, most brands were quoting 10-12+ months lead time (I think Marquis got up to 18 months lead time at one point!) but production rates seem to be increasing (when supplies are available natch lol) I work in a completely different unrelated manufacturing industry and I cannot tell you how many raw material shortages I've encountered over the past 12 months - first it was raw plastics in May, then raw rubber in June/July, steel shortages in late summer..... the list goes on and on. And I run a small scale manufacturing operation in America, I can't imagine what sort of hell these spa factory inventory sourcing departments have been facing the past year. Real talk, Jacuzzi makes a hell of a therapeutic spa, it will be worth the wait when it's finally installed in your home. But I would not cancel the order to find some other brand with a spa in stock ready for delivery. The demand for spas is so insane I'd say it's practically a red flag if you find another hottub dealer with a spa in stock ready for delivery - why hasn't anyone else already snatched it up 😄 Your order is in the queue - If you decide to cancel your order the dealer will sell it to the next person in line and you'll be stuck back at square one, and I can guarantee you anything worth it's money will have a 3+ month wait right now, if not longer. Last I heard this past month there's been a shortage on Acrylic (used for the spa shells) - who knows how that's affecting the factories........ sigh.

TL/DR - No. HudsonBay spas is an LPI brand of spas. They are a terrible company who builds budget-grade spas using the cheapest components possible - since they are a mail-order product they are also constructed with essentially zero insulation to reduce manufacturing and shipping costs. When bought new (from sites like HomeDepot) they are extremely overpriced for what you're getting. LPI is a terrible company, they sell the same products under multiple brand names to obfuscate the customer making it harder for you to read all the negative reviews on the company. If you visit Hudsonbay's website, you'll notice they never once mention "LPI Inc" on their site. That's intentional. Head over to LPI's website and you'll see a list of their brands, and I'll be honest - they're all terrible low-grade products - https://lpiinc.com/shops/ (Note for anyone curious - Catalina spas WAS A good brand name in the 90's until LPI acquired the brand in 2016) That's because everything you're seeing has already been picked over by the pros and other desperate people shopping for a hottub. Keep in mind professionals are also buying used tubs off the classifieds to flip/resell if there's a good enough profit in the deal for them. If you want to find the best deals on used hottubs, you need to watch the listings daily and sort only by recently-added. The BEST used spa deals sell in literally less than 24-48 hours, so you'll never see those listings (sellers take down the listing because they TOO many hits). The trick is to watch for newly listed spas which you can see filled with water and working. Then look up the brand and product line to figure out what tier/class it's in (most big name brands build multiple product tiers to fit every budget - sometimes these are bells/whistle changes, other times they are improvements under the hood to increase product lifespan - when buying used I'd personally be looking mostly at the flagship top-tiers from any brand to ensure you get the longest lifespan). Also note - warranties do not transfer on used spas so don't pay 85%+ of retail pricing for a 10 month old spa! All that said - hottubs require routine maintenance for proper operation. Many people can't even maintain the filters in their vacuum cleaners, let alone water chemistry in a hottub. For some, a hottub is an impulse purchase without realizing everything involved, soon enough they get bored and sell the spa to try and recoup some of their money back. I see amazing deals pop up all the time in the classifieds (at least a few times a month, and I'm in a warm subtropical climate where there aren't too many spa owners!). I have no doubt if you keep watching the market you'll find a nice spa from a name brand in your budget ($1k to $3k will definitely find you quality working hottub). Just be ready to buy when you find what you're looking for because like I said - you're competing with professionals who do this for a living.

I would never buy/take a drained/empty tub - that is a can of worms you don't want to open........ When you remove the water and let a tub sit dry, the air will get to anything metal (like the heater element which may start rusting) and the seals which can start to shrink and deteriorate in as little as one week after a spa has been drained. Hot Tubs have the best lifespan when left filled with hot sanitized/balanced water and running. Real talk - if you watch the local classifieds daily (since pros are also watching for used spas to flip and re-sell) you can often score a used (WORKING) hottub for between $1000 and $4000 in decent to good condition once you know what brands to look for - the trick is to only look at newly listed spas which you can see filled with water and functional in the photos (if it's empty - skip it even if it's a top name brand). I personally would skip this spa unless the owner will fill it and turn it on so you can see it working (note - different leaks appear at ambient temperature verses water heated to 100F). Spas are a luxury item which requires maintenance for optimal operation, most people can't even maintain a vacuum cleaner's filters, let alone a hottub. Many people get bored and look to sell their tub before it depreciates too much in value. I see good deals for used spas at least half a dozen times a month (although like I said, the best deals get scooped up in less than 24-36 hours). Just remember that dealer warranties do not transfer, so don't pay 85% of retail price because it's a 1-year old used hottub

Lol, well my three seater isn't exactly a budget grade spa - my Jetsetter has a multi-density spray foam insulation and a properly fitting cover to retain heat - so any heat generated is retained and not bled off. Also my spa is out on the back patio in direct sunlight all day long so that helps the water heat up. From May to October I set my water temp to 96F and my water temp will never drop below 98F unless I throw open the cover for half the night to let heat bleed off. Well my Jetsetter is wired for 110V so the heater cannot run concurrently with the jet pump (instead there's a low wattage circulation pump) - but my spa does have a true 1000watt heater. With the full foam insulation, my spa heats up at 4 degrees per hour on a fresh fill (measured/tested/confirmed personally) . Think of it like this - buy two bags of ice, put one in a nice Yeti cooler, and the other in a cardboard box. Which one is going to melt first? Same principal applies to hottubs. I've said before and I'll say it again - a well insulated energy efficient flagship spa from the 90's is going to be more energy than a brand new construction budget grade spa without adequate insulation. We use our spa nearly every evening and I've only seen around a $10 increase in monthly electrical bills since delivery.

Same here on Florida's space coast - I only use the heater for about six weeks. Otherwise this time of the year my spa heats up to over 103F (too hot for summer time for me). So I make it a routine to throw open the cover for an hour or two every night - the spa's circulation pump helps bleed off heat fast for me.

First, inspect the condition of your cover - Is it cracked/broken or ill-fitting? Heat rises, so having a properly fitting cover in good condition is the most important thing. If you have or know someone with a FLiR thermal imaging camera - this is a perfect opportunity to use it, keep the cover on and look for where heat is escaping around the cover. Next up, the best thing you can do to increase energy efficiency besides the cover is to add insulation (if there is space available for more). Grab some black contractor grade trash bags and then stuff them with stone Rockwool insulation (wear respirator - you don't want to breath in stone fiber dust). Next place these insulated bags CAREFULLY between the cabinet walls and shell - be sure to leave plenty of space around the equipment and electronics area so they can vent heat sufficiently as needed. You still won't get as energy efficient as a flagship spa which uses full spray-foam to fill *every* void between the cabinet and the shell walls, but stuffing rockwool into contractor bags should substantially increase heat retention and thus energy efficiency.

Depending on when you bought your Aria, the controller might be covered under warranty (should be five years if I'm not mistaken). I'd call the dealer if it's been less than 5 years and get them involved. Alternatively @castletonia is our resident Hotsprings expert who might know an easy fix

Best bet is to head over to their website and email them for a copy. However the truth is the owner's manual usually doesn't contain as much useful information as most people expect/hope to find. Your spa likely uses generic industry standard components (either balboa or Gecko) - it'll have a pretty standard topside controller. If you can't find a manual, just post some photos of the topside controller and the air valves in question - I'm sure someone can help answer your questions.

Depends, how are the local dealers you're buying from? Are they local, reputable with an established history of reviews from satisfied customers you can find online? Or are they a fly-by-night traveling circus hottub expo? In most cases the dealer you buy from is responsible for warranty labor costs, not the manufacturer - so be sure you trust the dealer you're buying from since you'll be stuck with them for a while. The last thing you want is to buy from a dealer located hundreds+ miles away who won't return calls and sends out the lowest bidding repair tech in town when you finally do get in touch with someone for service. That said, between those two brands, I'd probably lean towards Bullfrog

Nah, I'm kidding - it's just snake oil. If you pull out that red "HotStick" and replace it with a straight pipe, your tub will still heat up at the same slow and energy-inefficient rate because the actual source of the heat is the pump itself. Dreammaker spas was actually acquired by another company (Jacuzzi's parent company), these days all new models contain a true 1kW/4kW heater - they did away with the "HotStick" years ago. Even their cheapest budget grade "EZ Spa" which used to contain only a hotstick now contains a conventional 1kW heater.

5x7 is a pretty common size for a 3-seater (one lounger and two bucket seats). When you account for wall thicknesses, framing, plumbing and insulation, I don't think you can find much shorter than that in a square/rectangular format. I think your best bet is going to be a round tub like one of these https://softub.com/product/sportster-140/ https://www.nordichottubs.com/impulse/

In many cases (but not all), the dealer you buy from is responsible for warranty labor costs not the manufacturer. You'll be stuck with the dealer for the duration of the warranty so better do your research before buying. Doesn't matter if you *really* want a spa from XYZ brand and the only dealer in town has a reputation for sh!tty customer service with techs known to do more damage in the process of fixing something else - you're gonna have a bad time. I personally am a fan of the Hotspring Highlife series - they are built to have a long lifespan (when properly cared for natch - tubs have the best lifespan when left running 24/7/365 with balanced/sanitized water). But Hotspring's biggest claim to fame is their proprietary motomassager jets which some love and others could care less - after wet testing a Highlife class spa I was sold on them, but not everyone is (which is cool - they're not for everyone). If the Highlife class doesn't do it for you, there are several other brands which build flagship tier spas - Caldera, Jacuzzi, Sundance, Marquis, Beachcomber, Nordic, Bullfrog, etc. Just make sure you're buying from a dealer you can trust to do the job right when you need the spa serviced. Last thing you want is to buy from a hottub traveling circus expo with dealer's located in another state who call out the lowest bidding spa tech in town to service your spa. Last piece of advice - pay attention to the internal construction. The industry standard is choice for framing materials is pressure treated lumber which was previously treated with arsenic to resist rot, however since 2002 all new PT lumber is made with copper instead of arsenic. Not a big deal.... until the wood is exposed to water/mildew/rodents/bugs etc and then it'll rot much faster than older tubs made before 2002. That's why you'll notice many of the top flagship spas from the top brands have started moving towards a tool-grade polymer frame material which will not rust/rot. This isn't a big deal if you're planning to upgrade every decade to the latest and greatest, but if you want something built to last 20+ years, it's something I'd consider.

Nope, I wouldn't offer more than $500 for anything that old, even if it was in perfect working condition

Yikes, Hottub rash is nothing to mess with. After decontaminate & draining the spa, wipe/clean/sanitize all the surfaces with bleach. Do not re-enter water until the rash has cleared up completely for several weeks. Depending on the severity of your rash you might want to see a dermatologist for medication. You'll risk re-contaminating the water if you hop back in without getting treated first. Gonna wanna keep the cover off - excessive gasses building up under the cover will damage it My tub is outside so it's a bit different. But I wash the exterior monthly with dish soap and water and then use a 303 aerospace protectant to condition the cover and extend it's lifespan. For the inside of the cover (only cleaned a few times a year when it needs it), I use cleaning vinegar with a splash of citrus extract cleaner (d-limonene - mainly to mask the vinegar scent lol) and use a rag to clean/scrub the cover. Then I use some fresh water to wash off the vinegar/citrus cleaner. Lol that's a new one on me. Never had to do that with my hottub in the past two years I've had one (used daily). Maybe I'm missing something but I don't see a need if your spa is properly maintained. Softened water is fine from my understanding. It's more important for saltwater systems which need proper ranges for the cell to generate adequate chlorine Don't know how to help with this one. Why not simply turn off the hottub and open the cover for a day to bleed off the heat first before draining. Alternatively grab a sump pump and a long hose - pump it somewhere else if necessary/desired. The K2006 is for chlorine. The K2106 is for Bromine setups. These titration test kits contain several different reagents and tests - they are not a single "test" like test strips. So things like the pH test can be used for both saltwater pool and tub. Screw Amazon and their ridiculous pricing (along with bin SKU mixing, and other crappy business practices). Do you have any local pool chemical supply dealers in your region? Go visit them and tell them you're looking for a titration test kit for your hottub. They'll have several different test kits in stock - get the most expensive titration test kit they sell lol. Alternatively why not buy direct from the manufacturer - https://www.taylortechnologies.com/en/product/test-kits/complete-kit-for-chlorine-ph-alkalinity-hardness-cya-fas-dpdhigh-range-75-oz-bo--K-2006 Wait, so you are the only one in your household who has gotten this rash? As far as I understand it - there are two types of rashes which can be caused by a hottub: Hottub Folliclulitis which is a bacterial infection festering in the plumbing caused by improper sanitizer usage. This can infect anyone who uses the tub until the tub has been decontaminated. This type of hottub rash infects your hair follicles on the skin causing nasty red irritated bumps (even infecting the scalp in severe cases!). This is the worst case scenario for a hottub and should be avoided by sanitizing properly. The other type of rash is far less common - it is an allergic reaction to a chemical in the non-chlorine shock (MPS). In this case the individual with the skin reaction will be affected but everyone else will be fine to use the spa. The solution here is to drain/refill the spa and switch to an alternative care routine which does not require the use of non-chlorine oxidizing shock chemicals.

What a beautiful location! No doubt you'll have an epic view from your spa every night lol. I'm pretty sure flat is what's important for a spa, not level - but I'm not sure if that's too uneven for a hottub. I'm no expert (by any stretch of the imagination), but I've seen a few people praise the Spa Level-r which might work for your needs - http://www.thespalevel-r.com

Hotspring's biggest claim to fame is their proprietary motomassager jet. Only available in their Highlife class tubs (and two Hotspot tubs: SX and TX) - my favorite jet in the tub, nothing like it from any other brand in the industry. A hotspring without motomassager jets isn't a hotspring in my book haha. All other jets in the spa are pretty standard affair you'd find on other tubs: blaster jets, spinning jets, and sparkle jets. I replaced all the larger blaster jets in my tub with spinning jets for a bit more action in the water when my wife is hogging the motomassager lounger in our Jetsetter.