Spa_Guru

I have been fixing spas for three decades, of the ones on the list, Sundance, then Hot Springs. Viking and Lazy-Boy are junk. Cheap doesn't happen because "everyone else is trying to rip you off", and looks mean nothing.

It is most likely an air intake, and leaks because an internal check valve has worn out, the simplest fix is to cork it with an expandable rubber cork.

The problem with the intake covers is that the Virginia Graham-Baker act has banned them as they are not sufficiently safe in preventing entrapment and are a risk of causing drowning, the correct way to take care of it is to replace the entire fitting. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Virginia_Graeme_Baker_Pool_and_Spa_Safety_Act

Standard mode will make the spa run any time the temp drops one degree or more, it will also run it's filtering cycles, plus some Balboa based control systems will have a preprogrammed "cleanup" cycle that runs the filter for an hour or two after any time the control pad has been touched. If you change to "Ec" mode, the spa will only heat during preprogrammed filter cycles.

My money is on Brandon being correct, he has repaired boards for my customers for 3 years now, and he has never had to fix one twice.

Take a hacksaw blade (just the blade) and put some electrician's tape around what would normally be the forward end of the blade. This will be your handle, you now hand cut (cutting on the pull, not the push) from the inside of the broken off piece directly towards the outside in two spots about 1/4" apart, cut until you feel the harder PVC plastic (even if you cut it to the bottom of the PVC threads it will not leak). You will now be able to peel oit the 1/4" wide piece with a small screwdriver or needle nose pliers, and the rest of the broken off piece will come out easily.

Depending on the type of controller, the topside lock feature may have been activated, when you try to use the panel, do you get an LC code?

Switchless motors does not mean switchless heaters. often the flow switch is a couple feet away from the equipment, and if you have a FL error, it is coming from either a pressure switch or a flow switch. The pressure switch looks like this; Or this; Your flow switch probably loos like this;

If you use fiberglass insulation put moisture barriers inside and out, as wood tubs tend to seep.

Best thing with sunken tubs is to rip them out and build decking over the hole, and install the new tub on top. I'm a service tech, I charge extra for "nightmare" access.

If your pump is loud and coming off and on, it is likely seized, trying to turn, and setting off it's overheat switch - and the cause of your blown fuse. Check to see if the shaft of the motor turns freely.

Disconnect the wires from the switch, then with the tub off, you should get infinite ohms, with the pump running you should get zero ohms.

I wouldn't go a year without changing my water no matter how fancy an Ozonator I had.

If the capacitor is good, it will store voltage even after the pump is turned off. Granger's industrial sells capacitors, look on the side of the capacitor for it's microfarad (UF) and voltage range. Check the capacitor for leakage around the end where the wires attach.

You may have blown the wire wound glass fuse and not realize it, it is hard to see the break in the wire. http://static.giantbomb.com/uploads/scale_small/0/7667/1119203-fuse.jpg

Glad to help.

There may be a gap between the plastic portion of the pump and the motor where you can see the impeller shaft, if not, a motor while running will be circulating hot air out of its vents.

Try increasing your filtering times, factory default is two hours, but using the tub increases this because of the automatic cleanup cycle. Another very distinct possibility is you have neighbors using your tub when you are gone. Test this by setting a small object on the spa cover and see if it is moved or gone when you come home.

Typically there is a price drop amount allowed by the salesman's boss that is allowed to close a deal - rarely over $500 - anything beyond that and the salesman does not get his part that feeds his family (or bad habits) - so going to the boss may get you a little lower price, but first figure out if you hate the salesman enough to make sure he doesn't get paid for his time with you.

Depending on how the discharge of the pump is positioned, and the exit plumbing, hard to say. Take the equipment door off and when you turn the pump on, verify that the motor is physically turning over, not just making noise. If you do not have an air lock, and you have your filter out, there are only three possibilities remaining - 1) The pump isn't turning over. 2) The impeller is obstructed (either the valves are closed or there is debris in the impeller face) 3) Your impeller or pump shaft are broken.

Ohms?

They recommend filling the spa thru the filter intake without the filters in during start-up, you may have a air lock, if you are getting visible flow, this is not the issue, you may have a corroded pressure switch, disconnect the switch and run an ohm test on it. Page 27 of your owner's manual covers the initial things you want to check, there is a PDF of it here ~~~> http://www.spaparts123.net/files/2007_Platinum_OwnersManual.pdf

Most likely an air lock. If the discharge pipe exits the pump below the intake (some manufacturers do this for plumbing geometry) priming isn't as easy. Verify that your slide valves are open (handles extended) and with the power off, loosen whichever fitting on the pump is highest, wait for water to come out and retighten it. The run the pump high speed, within 30 seconds you should have visible flow.

It is easy to install the wrong switch, install it 180 degrees out of place, or damage the switch putting it in. Do an ohm check, disconnect the switch - it needs to have infinite ohms with the pump off, and zero ohms with the pump running.

I buy from Cedar Mountain covers of Hayden, Idaho. I also offer local Spokane area delivery, installation, and removal/disposal of the old cover. http://cedarmountainnw.com/