andob45

more info would help, temp shows, did you just refill? any thing else you could describe would better help us to troubleshoot.

what is the water starting at temp wise? is your heat indicator light or icon on the topside control panel saying the spa is heating? if it is chances are it is getting voltage. the true test would be to see if it is drawing amperage. any more info you can provide would help

The pump should be 120 volts. on a 120/240 spa the only thing running on 240 would be the heater all other components such as the pump would be 120. could be something else with the pump and not a voltage problem. is the pump getting really hot to the touch? Can you call the person who put the reconditioned pump in to see for specs? but my guess is the pump is bad.

how long have you had the temp set at 80? did you ever have it set for 104 and let it heat all the way? This may be something you thought of but if you are in a warmer climate it may take days for the spa to lose that much heat on i's own, especially if you have it filtering for long periods of time. Just a thought.

hopefully should still be under warranty, call for service. i agree with blue most likely heater, but maybe a board

It does look like the wire goes exactly where it's mate goes. I don't want to rain on your parade, but it looks like that spa is not digitally controlled, so it would have a mechanical thermostat to control temperature. if the spa went from cold water to 95 degrees it probably is a bad thermostat rather than the heater. How did you determine it was the heater? you can hook that wire up and see what happens, if it does the same thing it's the thermostat

It is more than likely a temperature sensor, it is not uncommon for those to go bad. I have seen it happen frequently and those are the symptoms, that will typically make the spa go into watch dog. you will have to drain the spa down below the filter area to replace. it is the gray fitting that looks like a fixed button with a hex head for a base in the filter well. to replace you would need to disconnect it out of sensor harness that is connected to the control board, use a ratchet to unthread sensor from shell, tie a string to end of sensor wire and pull out of tub completely, take new sensor tie wire end to string pull back through hole in shell and tighten fitting. do not over tighten, just enough to compress the o-ring enough to seal. reconnect sensor into harness make sure blacjk and red wires are in proper positions, look at other sensors to verify. plug harness back into board. you should verify that the tempsensor is the problem. you can pull the sensor out and look at the end if it is discolored where connects to the sensor, it is bad, or get a new sensor and plug it in and throw it over the side,into water, have a digital thermometer and verify it is reading the correct temperature, or have a tech come out to troubleshoot, they havge a test plug that can diagnose sensor problems quickly and easily. if you buy t5he sensor and do it yourself, and it is not the problem most dealers won't take them back. unless you really feel comfortable with this process I would have a tech come out and take care of it, but for what it's worth if the temp sensor is the problem that is how you would replace it. As I mentioned I have seen this part fail before and the4 symptoms you describe indicate that is the problem.

Very smart to wet test, go with what feels right for you , price should not neccessarily decide which one unless you feel they are both very similar and suitable to your needs, both are good tubs with excellent warranties.

probably a bad heater, if you really do have proper power to the heater. your friend most likely disconnected the pressure switch, which is why you had flo error. the device on the heater tube with the 18-22 gauge black and red wires with female blade connectors connected to it is the pressure/flow switch, that tells the spa there is proper water flow through the heater tube to allow the spa to energize the heater. typically heat light on, proper voltage and no heat= bad heater. you can also test the resistance of the element, should be around 12 ohms.You must turn power off and disconnect the heater from the board to test this.

Sounds like the pump is frozen based on your description of the buzzing sound, especially if it sat empty for a couple years. I would recommend getting a service tech out to diagnose and repair.

You said they have a double pole 30 amp supplying a 30 amp and 20 amp in the sub- panel. this may not have anything to do with the problem but should be corrected. I would call an electrician. could be a problem with the wire like stuart said, you should have a qualified electrician trouble shoot. sounds like an electrical issue to me as well.

Start with incoming power verify that it is correct, check all your fuses I would start with that.

If the spa is hooked up 220 you shoud be getting 220 at the heater. you need to start tracing your voltage, start with incoming power to the spa make sure it is right. something is going on. are you testing across both heater terminals?

are you getting any error messages on the topside? heat indicator light on? Is the spa hooked up for 120 or 220 volts? if its 220 then you have an issue only getting 120 to the heater.did you buy a new heater assembly or just an element? more info would be helpfull to diagnose the problem. if you cracked the ceramic coating on the element posts when installing the element may be bad.

Hey Dave - no offence buddy, but for what it's worth I do kind of agree with you that if you're competent on DIY electrics then it's not rocket science to wire up a hot tub. But just like another poster said it's a big "IF", and IF a person get's it wrong then the consequences will be at best dangerous, and at worst fatal. Another factor to take into consideration is that if there's a pre-existing fault in the house wiring, most DIY'ers are not gonna see it, and will blindly just build upon this problem by adding a hot tub circuit, whereas a licensed electrician will (should) pick up on it. Personally I believe we should send the message that wiring a hot tub is not a job for a DIY enthusiast (even a competent one), and only a job for a licensed and qualified electrician - but that's just my opinion.As for crappy contractors, yes, your point is well taken. My only advice there is to go with well established business's and/or recommendations. that is an excellent point, or another one would be do you have enough capacity in your existing panel to add a hot tub. I agree with this opinion as well. I think i'll stop beating this horse now i've given more than my two cents.

You guys are right. There are some contractors out there including electricians that do sub par work, and usually people end up hiring them because they came in with the lowest bid. you get what you pay for and that's true for products and services, but there are just as many electriciands that do quality work, and they are usually a little bit higher than other bids but for a reason. "Yes, electricity is dangerous but it isn't complicated and it isn't magic. If you understand what you are doing, you can do a job that is as good or better than a professional would do. " No it's not Magic, depending on your aptitude and experience it may not be complicated for you. the key statement is IF you understand what you are doing. if you truly do great, if you think you do and you don't it may be too late in the blink of an eye. I'm all for doing it yourself, but please make sure you really know what you are doing. I could really care less if anyone hires an electrician or not, no skin off my back, But there is a reason they are a licensed proffesional, they have went through the training, and had numerous years of on the job experience and have passed state exams, and to say it is not complicated can be very misleading.

Any voltage can potentially Kill or seriously injure, at the right amperage. Always treat all voltage that way. I second those words of wisdom "If you are not sure find someone who is. " Thank you for this comment. You are precisely correct, and the need for your comment points out that folks really don't fully understand the nature of what they're playing with. The "tingle" is annoying and often happens because the current is passing through a single HAND. If it finds its way through your body - say, from one hand to the other (through your chest) you are unilkely to be commenting on the tingle in the future... or commenting at all in the future for that matter. And thanks also to Stuart A for the comment on formal qualification. This is another HUGE point. The logic is faulty to say, "...study, understand and follow the latest electrical code". Just because you review the book that you find at the library does NOT mean that you truly understand it. You haven't been tested, so you have no objective way to know if you understand or if you merely "think" you understand. People that are truly familiar with the code know that there are requirements that are buried in certain sections that apply to certain situations. It's pretty hard to master all this - the NEC is over an inch thick - with a casual perusal of the code book. I am reasonably certain that no one undertakes a wiring job believing that they don't know what they're doing, or sets out to electrocute themselves. But it happens. The people in the video didn't want to kill the little boy. A run through some of the posts on this forum is evidence enough of the lack of basic understanding that many people have. Most of them are quite sure they are being perfectly competent. Because it's a safety issue, they system relies on multiple levels of validation. The electrician must be licensed, but he could make an error or have gotten those questions on the test wrong. So the inspector comes in. Most are looking FIRST at safety -- grounding and bonding, and it's one of those things where the more they find, the harder they look. Between a capable electrician and a qualified inspector, you have vastly increased your odds of getting a safe installation - not to 100%, but pretty decent odds. If the installer is not qualified and only "thinks" he/she knows what he/she's doing, then it all falls on the inspector. Your odds just went down because now there is only ONE set of qualified eyeballs on the job. Nevertheless, many localities allow homeowners to do their own residential electrical wiring. Please consider the risks versus the cost versus your experience and level of understanding should you wish to undertake this. Saving a few hundred bucks is tempting, but spending it on funerals... not so much. very well said Hot water. Thank you!

Any voltage can potentially Kill or seriously injure, at the right amperage. Always treat all voltage that way. I second those words of wisdom "If you are not sure find someone who is. "

I'm just a newbie myself but I do have 2 thoughts: First, I am wondering what impact the metal gone might be having on your testing. Do you know if you have some type of metal problem that required the use of the sequesterant? One basic rule I have learned is to never put any chemical into my pool or hot tub unless I have a specific reason to. My second thought is that you might have a need to do more of a decontamination process on that tub than just emptying it and refilling. You really have no idea what kind of care that tub had before you came along. I would think it could be possible that the bromine is being "used up" by contaminants that are living in the tub. Posted in this forum is a decontamination procedure that can be followed to ensure your tub is clean as a whistle. Its a 2 step process that first uses an enzyme preparation that can break down the biofilm that microorganisms form around themselves within the pipes of a hot tub, then uses a "supershock" process to make sure everything possible is dead. Finally the tub is drained again and started back off with a fresh, clean fill. Check out Nitro's decontamination thread in this forum for complete instructions. Good Luck! you need to use chlorine free shock treatment, leisure time is a good brand, you need to have an oxidizer in their to help the bromine work. shock your water and then test you will have more than enough in there

that is great that you were able to do the wiring yourselves even better if you had no electrical experience at all, but the code book is not intended to be a how to wiring book for novices or people with no electrical experience at all. some people such as yourselves can study it and understand it, but i would not recommend just anybody trying to hook up a spa or any other major electrical appliance just by reading the code book and with no other experience or knowledge of the trade, IMHO

if it is hooked up 220 volts it should take 5-8 hours to heat hooked up 110v will typically only heat 1-2 degrees per hour, is the spa indicating that it is heating?

Looking for some help, have an 02 sundance Cameo, just had a temp sensor installed. spa was in watchdog, reset power temp read 113, water was ice cold. replaced temp sensor. water heated up spa is functioning all automated functions but my topside control is not operating properly. most of the buttons do not function. the jets 2 button turns the pump on also switches the mode, and adjust s the temp up. jets 1 button sets the temp down and turns the pump on. the jets two button also turns the light on. all other buttons are non functioning. the spa is maintaing temperature. any Ideas much appreciated.