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So I fixed it. I called the place that I ordered it from, and as it turns out, companies that make tubs program the board with a little chip specifically for each tub(controls and what not). They said if I switch out the main processors from the old, to the new, it should work, and sure enough it did. So for anyone that ever runs in to the same problem as me, as long as its the exact same board, you can swap processors, just dont put it in backwards! The whole issue could have been avoided by telling them it was for a master spa with 4 button controls but I didnt notice a imput area online for that.

I had a bad relay on my Balboa Value m7 board. This board is in a 2003 master spa, 1 speed pump, 2 speed pump, no circulation pump, no blower. I have 1 control panel on it. There is 4 buttons, jet 1, jet 2 temp and light. After replacing the Value m7 board with a new Value m7 board, the tub now heats but the jet 1 button still works jets 1. Jet 2 button works some kind of timer. Temp button activated the blower relay(no blower), and the light appears to run the light....whats up? Was my original board specifically programmed for this tub? Should I get a new controller? Can I swap out the u4 main processors? Thanks for any assistance.

I can hear the heater relay clicking over. uhm..... My thoughts are I might have a faulty heater because when the relay clicks on, I get voltage going to the heater. Measured from either heater terminal to a ground I get 120v. Measure from terminal to terminal I have nothing. Everything checks out on the board(fuses, incoming power...everything). bad heaters out of the box can happen remove the heater leads and check for continuity at the heater studs What should I expect for continuity? thanks. you should get 000 on your multi-meter set at 200k I tested it, and I am getting 00.0 on the heater.

I can hear the heater relay clicking over. uhm..... My thoughts are I might have a faulty heater because when the relay clicks on, I get voltage going to the heater. Measured from either heater terminal to a ground I get 120v. Measure from terminal to terminal I have nothing. Everything checks out on the board(fuses, incoming power...everything). bad heaters out of the box can happen remove the heater leads and check for continuity at the heater studs What should I expect for continuity? thanks.

I can hear the heater relay clicking over. uhm..... My thoughts are I might have a faulty heater because when the relay clicks on, I get voltage going to the heater. Measured from either heater terminal to a ground I get 120v. Measure from terminal to terminal I have nothing. Everything checks out on the board(fuses, incoming power...everything).

When I test from 1 terminal, to a ground I get 120. When I test from the other, same. When I test from terminal to terminal on the heater, I got nothing. Comming in on the 240, when I run from black to white, 120, red to white, 120, red to black, 240.

The balboa heater has 2 terminals on it. the new one I recieved is the same, but for some reason it has 2 grounding lugs on it too. I hooked my multi meter from each terminal and then to common ground. got 120v from each. http://www.cedartubs.com/ebayphotos/1172641160M7_tube_right.jpg copy and paste the above link. This is the exact heater I have. If I run from either terminal to a neutral ground, I was getting 120v.

are you getting any error messages on the topside? heat indicator light on? Is the spa hooked up for 120 or 220 volts? if its 220 then you have an issue only getting 120 to the heater.did you buy a new heater assembly or just an element? more info would be helpfull to diagnose the problem. if you cracked the ceramic coating on the element posts when installing the element may be bad. I don't have any error messages, the heat indicator is on. It is hooked up for 220v. I was careful in my installation, so I dont believe i cracked the ceramic coating.... Everything seems right with it....exept for the 120v to the heater.

So my tub was working fine, drained it, filled it, now it popped the GFCI upon startup. After some research, I discovered that it was the heater. So I purchased an aftermarket heater for it, and now it does not pop the GFCI, but no fricken heat! Whats the deal? I hooked up the ohm meter and got about 11 ohms from the old, and new heater..... I took the coil out of the old heater, and looks like the o-seals were shot to hell so maybe water got past them to trip it out..... I am getting 120v at the heater terminals when its running, with the new heater....I am stumped.