andob45

more info would help, temp shows, did you just refill? any thing else you could describe would better help us to troubleshoot.

what is the water starting at temp wise? is your heat indicator light or icon on the topside control panel saying the spa is heating? if it is chances are it is getting voltage. the true test would be to see if it is drawing amperage. any more info you can provide would help

The pump should be 120 volts. on a 120/240 spa the only thing running on 240 would be the heater all other components such as the pump would be 120. could be something else with the pump and not a voltage problem. is the pump getting really hot to the touch? Can you call the person who put the reconditioned pump in to see for specs? but my guess is the pump is bad.

how long have you had the temp set at 80? did you ever have it set for 104 and let it heat all the way? This may be something you thought of but if you are in a warmer climate it may take days for the spa to lose that much heat on i's own, especially if you have it filtering for long periods of time. Just a thought.

hopefully should still be under warranty, call for service. i agree with blue most likely heater, but maybe a board

It does look like the wire goes exactly where it's mate goes. I don't want to rain on your parade, but it looks like that spa is not digitally controlled, so it would have a mechanical thermostat to control temperature. if the spa went from cold water to 95 degrees it probably is a bad thermostat rather than the heater. How did you determine it was the heater? you can hook that wire up and see what happens, if it does the same thing it's the thermostat

It is more than likely a temperature sensor, it is not uncommon for those to go bad. I have seen it happen frequently and those are the symptoms, that will typically make the spa go into watch dog. you will have to drain the spa down below the filter area to replace. it is the gray fitting that looks like a fixed button with a hex head for a base in the filter well. to replace you would need to disconnect it out of sensor harness that is connected to the control board, use a ratchet to unthread sensor from shell, tie a string to end of sensor wire and pull out of tub completely, take new sensor tie wire end to string pull back through hole in shell and tighten fitting. do not over tighten, just enough to compress the o-ring enough to seal. reconnect sensor into harness make sure blacjk and red wires are in proper positions, look at other sensors to verify. plug harness back into board. you should verify that the tempsensor is the problem. you can pull the sensor out and look at the end if it is discolored where connects to the sensor, it is bad, or get a new sensor and plug it in and throw it over the side,into water, have a digital thermometer and verify it is reading the correct temperature, or have a tech come out to troubleshoot, they havge a test plug that can diagnose sensor problems quickly and easily. if you buy t5he sensor and do it yourself, and it is not the problem most dealers won't take them back. unless you really feel comfortable with this process I would have a tech come out and take care of it, but for what it's worth if the temp sensor is the problem that is how you would replace it. As I mentioned I have seen this part fail before and the4 symptoms you describe indicate that is the problem.

Very smart to wet test, go with what feels right for you , price should not neccessarily decide which one unless you feel they are both very similar and suitable to your needs, both are good tubs with excellent warranties.

probably a bad heater, if you really do have proper power to the heater. your friend most likely disconnected the pressure switch, which is why you had flo error. the device on the heater tube with the 18-22 gauge black and red wires with female blade connectors connected to it is the pressure/flow switch, that tells the spa there is proper water flow through the heater tube to allow the spa to energize the heater. typically heat light on, proper voltage and no heat= bad heater. you can also test the resistance of the element, should be around 12 ohms.You must turn power off and disconnect the heater from the board to test this.

Sounds like the pump is frozen based on your description of the buzzing sound, especially if it sat empty for a couple years. I would recommend getting a service tech out to diagnose and repair.

You said they have a double pole 30 amp supplying a 30 amp and 20 amp in the sub- panel. this may not have anything to do with the problem but should be corrected. I would call an electrician. could be a problem with the wire like stuart said, you should have a qualified electrician trouble shoot. sounds like an electrical issue to me as well.

Start with incoming power verify that it is correct, check all your fuses I would start with that.

If the spa is hooked up 220 you shoud be getting 220 at the heater. you need to start tracing your voltage, start with incoming power to the spa make sure it is right. something is going on. are you testing across both heater terminals?

are you getting any error messages on the topside? heat indicator light on? Is the spa hooked up for 120 or 220 volts? if its 220 then you have an issue only getting 120 to the heater.did you buy a new heater assembly or just an element? more info would be helpfull to diagnose the problem. if you cracked the ceramic coating on the element posts when installing the element may be bad.

Hey Dave - no offence buddy, but for what it's worth I do kind of agree with you that if you're competent on DIY electrics then it's not rocket science to wire up a hot tub. But just like another poster said it's a big "IF", and IF a person get's it wrong then the consequences will be at best dangerous, and at worst fatal. Another factor to take into consideration is that if there's a pre-existing fault in the house wiring, most DIY'ers are not gonna see it, and will blindly just build upon this problem by adding a hot tub circuit, whereas a licensed electrician will (should) pick up on it. Personally I believe we should send the message that wiring a hot tub is not a job for a DIY enthusiast (even a competent one), and only a job for a licensed and qualified electrician - but that's just my opinion.As for crappy contractors, yes, your point is well taken. My only advice there is to go with well established business's and/or recommendations. that is an excellent point, or another one would be do you have enough capacity in your existing panel to add a hot tub. I agree with this opinion as well. I think i'll stop beating this horse now i've given more than my two cents.