PreservedSwine

It shouldn't be getting hot unless there's a loose connection. The amp draw is normal. Are you certain the wires are making good, solid, tight contact with the terminal block?

~20 Amps is correct on 240v. What size wire did you run on the 30 amp side?

When the cpu is acting a little schitzo- it usually needs replacement. However, it may have just gotten wet, and it may dry out.

Any flashing lights on the icon? You're correct, you should be able to energize the jets, and the lights, without the wireless control head. I presume the high limit may be tripped. Try turning the breakers off for approx 10 seconds, then on again. Give it about 15 seconds to boot, then try again. Note the Logo light, and if they're flashing (the green and blue Hot Spring Logo light), either green, blue, or, both.

There are two styles of Silver Ion cartridges that are pretty similar, one made specifically for Hot Springs, the other more generic. It should be replaced every 3-4 months. After a year or two (or three), the plastic holding the silver beads in place crumbles, and the beads get stuck in all kinds or places, plugging up the plumbing, or components. It's a non-chemical way to help kill pathogens, it isn't stand-alone (you still need to add Chlorine and MPS), but they work nicely IMO

What's your sanitation routine? Weekly shouldn't be necessary. I suspect your water is in very poor condition, therefore your filters working much, much more than normal.

How can anyone avoid "chemicals?" I think what you want to avoid is over-sanitation. Non-chlorine solutions can be more obnoxious than chlorine. Chlorine in the right amounts is virtually undetectable, and lower than your city's drinking water. Avoid a "salt," system, as that's simply a small chlorine factory installed in your spa. Add chlorine yourself, so you can add it only when you need it, and control the amounts with much greater precision. You won't smell it, your PH will be stable, and it will be the clearest, cleanest water imaginable.

That looks like the flapper of an inline check valve, or flow rstrcition valve of a filter, that has somehow managed to break loose and end up in the plumbing. Pretty amazing it made it that far. (It's not part of the divirter valve). If it's too large to pull out through the valve opening, you may need to cut the pipe, pull it out, and glue in a coupling. Very simple if there's enough room to cut and re-glue. Or maybe even better, if the valve is right next to the pump, just unscrew the pump union, and fish it out, then screw the union back on.

I'd say Press-air Trol on the topside, possibly Tri-delta also. You don't need the exact same manufacturer, many different ones will work in the same manner as the original.

Call 1-800-999-4688 If they're going to send you parts, have the technical support team at the manufacturer suggest which part to replace.

It could be something as simple as a temp sensor not plugged into the correct spot. What's the deal though? I don't understand why you were charged $400 for a warranty repair, unless they charged you a delivery fee to remove, and re-install the spa. Do you live hundreds of miles from the dealer?

Just check voltage to the pump at the main circuit-board. You don't need to get to the pump to check the voltage, check at the pump harness on the circuitboard. A bad pump is a normal failure, just as you have described it.

You also need to check the voltage from the heater breaker into the main terminal block- be sure you have 240v between 1 and 3, and 240 volts between 2 and 4. The heater PCB is the more likely failure, but from what you've posted, I don't see that you checked source voltage yet (Yes the spa will run fine if the heater breaker is defective, just no heat)

It's used- it may last quite a while, it may need expensive repairs after just a couple weeks. It's a well built spa- just make sure you've seen it running and heating,the pumps run quietly, and it doesn't leak. If the pumps sound great, there's no corrosion inside the equipment compartment, and it doesn't leak, the odds are in your favor of having several trouble free years. It's not the age of the spa, it's the age combined with the water chemistry. Take care of it,and it will take care of you.

I don't think you're looking at the serial number correctly? If it's a 90 or 91, it would have more digits. Starting in 1990, Watkins went to a different serial number format, after the spa model (I or IH in your case) it has 6 numerical digits. The first number is the quarter (1,2,3, or 4), the second number the year (0 for 1990, 1 for 1991, 2 for 1992, 3 for 1993), and the last four digits is the number of that spa off the assembly line, starts at 1. For instance, I101005 would be a 1st quarter 1990, the 5th spa off the assembly line. I111005 would be a 1st Q 1991, the 5th spa off the assembly line. The fact that it has three filters makes filter buying very easy- it's the same filter Hot Springs uses today

The sovereign/indoor outdoor has a model designator of the letter I. Can you list the complete model/serial number- they should be all together. Is it IH10014? If so, it's a late 1980's sovereign/indoor outdoor. If it's it I1H1014, it's a 2006 sovereign. It's very important to not mix up the number ONE and the letter I on that one EDIT- if it's just for filter ID, just count the number of filters, if it has just one, two, or three. Very easy to tell you which filter you need.

ICE has nothing to do with voltage. sorry.

With friends like that...lol You should call a qualified, competent tech. It may just be a little corrosion on some temp sensor harnesses, but you may have some expensive issues there.

You could enable summer mode on your GLEAM, which shuts down the circ pump for 8 hours a day. If you're just gone for a week, with the cover closed, I wouldn't be concerned about the chlorine going to zero for a couple days.

Many people hear, "Salt water" and think that the salt water is what keeps things bacteria or pathogen growth under control- this is not accurate. Salt water CHLORINE generators simply use the salt in the water to convert into chlorine- the same type of chlorine you can add yourself. Most work very well, just go into it with understanding you're installing a little chlorine factory into the spa, that is no more or less healthy than adding the chlorine yourself.

Not even close Dr. These are what me and my team refer to as, "Management decisions." And whoever is signing the check is the manager. Is it, "worth it?" Up to you! It's great to hear that both the dealer and Hot Springs are behind the product, and are stepping up and doing the right thing. It's what I've seen as well

The red LED lit might be, "control unplugged," on the main board of the IQ2020. If this is the case, turn off the breakers. Try unplugging both plugs on the LED light harness where it plugs into the IQ2020. One is a 10 pin plug, the other 3. Restore power.

They mean those filters- just remove them (and put the caps back on) to rule out the filters. Make sure the divirter valve (The BIG lever) is not in between positions, and make sure the air flow control is on max. If it still doesn't work, replace it.

If you just moved it, the light may have just fallen out of its mount.

Does low speed on the main pump also run while it's heating? (in addition to the 24 hr circ pump)