castletonia

FYI, I’m not a service tech. If the board is sending power to the circulation pump but the pump is not running, I would assume then the pump is dead. Except for when the tub is in summer mode, which turns the circulation pump off for 8 hours a day, I don’t know if an scenario where the circulation pump would shut off. Can you run the jets? If so, that should rule of a hi-limit trip.

Just to confirm, did you get a new control panel? The Eagle IQ2020 box will not communicate with an Orca control panel? Also, did the appropriate software get flashed to the circuit board and are all the jumper settings correct?

It's a scum line. Basically anything that comes off your body when you are using the hot tub. Think any type of personal hygiene products. Just wipe it away.

An energy efficient hot tub will be efficient regardless of age. Nothing against Master Spas, but I have never considered them to be a leader in energy efficiency. They typically are lacking in insulation and use powerful, more energy conserving pumps. While it's true that a good cover will make a difference, it's not going to change your $75 a month into $30-$40 a month. Circulation pumps are more efficient than jet pumps operating on low speed. If you want to get more technical than necessary, there are two types of circulation pumps, high flow and low flow. A low flow, like Hot Spring and Caldera use will run 24/7. A high flow like Jacuzzi uses will move more water and cost more to operate, but you have the option to reduce your run time. Personal opinion is I prefer a circulation pump that runs 24/7, regardless of size. Constantly filtering water is better than water that can sit stagnant and if the hot tub you purchase has an ozone, that ozone will only operate when the circulation pump is running. If I were you and I convinced myself that upgrading was going to happen, I would start looking now because hot tub inventory is nearly non-existent and lead times are really long. Just make sure you are actually upgrading and make sure that you really want this. Spending $10K on a hot tub is a lot of money just to save $30-$40 a month in operating costs.

On the exterior logo light. Green will not come on until the water temperature is within 2 degrees of what it is set for, so being off isn't unusual on a fresh fill. The blue turning off after 30 seconds isn't behavior I have personally encountered. Additionally, the 20A breaker should have nothing to do with the display turning on. The 20A is for the heater only. Assuming the hot tub is wired correctly and myself not being a service tech, I would be out of suggestions.

Nordic in my opinion makes probably the best quality entry level hot tub on the market. I sold them for 5-6 years at my previous employer. I don't know current pricing but based on what they sold for almost a decade ago $5,400 for any version of the Escape seems like a fair price. Honestly, unless you are willing to jump up above $7,000 I don't think there are any better quality options.

It's a 2020. It was made in 2nd quarter 2020

Pump HP has nothing to do with being able to heat or maintain heat. Can the hot tub actually heat itself back up to temp? If so, I would think the hot tub could be in sleep mode and the heater isn't being activated. Pretty sure if the pump was failing to turn on low speed, or if you had a bad pressure switch or circuit board you would get dashes on the display instead of the temperature. That Spa Depot link just takes me to their website so I'm not sure what pump you are referencing. The Hot Spring part number for the replacement pump is 73023. Technically though, any pump that has the same specs (# of speeds, amp draw, frame size, intake/discharge size) will work. Don't just compare hp, look at amp draw to. Based on the images of the pump you have, an Aquaflo XP2 I think would be the closest thing to what is in there if you don't get the pump directly from Hot Spring.

That does not come up as a valid serial number. Can you open the equipment area and look for a serial number inside there? Based on the picture I am guessing 1989 or older because I can search my service portal back to 1990 and the Prodigy looks different than the picture you have attached.

Unless you can find a used control panel or new old stock for the control panel, then yes.

Serial number comes up as a 2011. Unfortunately that control panel is obsolete and the current control panel in not compatible with those electronics. You will need the following parts: Eagle Control Box (76836) Eagle Control Panel (76844) Software Version 1.10H Your local dealer or an online authorized Hot Spring retailer can provide you the parts. Not sure if anyone will provide you the software and instructions though. If you can get the parts and want to do this yourself if you pm me your email address I can get you the software file and instructions.

Need the serial number to know what parts are needed. Hot Spring changed electronics mfg late in the year.

See attached. Guessing that when the hot tub was converted from 110V to 220V someone forgot to change the J3 jumper to + so the heater can run concurrently with the pump on high speed.

Since it was right after a drain/refill, I would first be thinking the circulation pump is airlocked. If that is not it, hi-limit sensor would be my next guess.

Looks like the original part is obsolete. There is a replacement part but it requires installing a complete new air control which includes a new housing and some plumbing work. Unless you can find new old stock or a used hot tub to take parts off I don't see any other options other than upgrade or leave as is in its non-functional state.

Not a lot of info floating around for anything pre-1995. Attached is the electrical schematic for a 1994 Hot Spot Round Z. This is the oldest I can find for any of the Hot Spots. Not sure if this is what you have but it's all I can find.

Hot Spring used to have 3 vendors for their motors and one went out of business at some point in the last dozen years and I'm guessing whomever vendor 0207 was is the one that went out of business. You will have to source that pump seal from a non-Watkins source. I cannot even look up part numbers for that vendor since they don't exist anymore. I would 2nd RDspaguy with the ps201 pump seal but having never seen that pump in person I cannot confirm.

It's from 1998. Here are two images of the wiring diagram. To me it looks like one is for 30A and the other must be the standard configuration.

I'm a Hot Spring dealer. I looked it up based on the serial number. Your local dealer should be able to order one for you if they don't stock it.

That serial number comes up as a 2014 Hot Spot SX with Canadian wiring. That control panel is still available, its part number 76843. It's entirely possible that your hot tub needs the software re-flashed to the circuit board or it could be an issue with that topside control panel.

I will tell my customers that they should not buy a hot tub based on saltwater compatibility and I sell Hot Spring and Caldera. Buy the hot tub that meets all or most of your wants and needs and then lets figure out the method for treating the water whether that be salt, ozone, chlorine, mineral, etc. The hard truth is that if you can't balance your water chemistry it doesn't matter what method is used for sanitizing your hot tub. If your salt levels are where the manufacturer recommends and pH levels are where they are supposed to be things like that don't happen. And while I only have about 4 years experience with Hot Spring and Caldera, I had customers in the past put aftermarket salt systems on their spas once outside warranty without issue.

That control panel is obsolete so you're only options are to find new old stock or a used one. If unsuccessful then you would have to upgrade to the current version of electronics which would probably set you back about $1,000 for the parts alone. Are you able to turn the jets on or light on using the auxiliary control panel? Did the hot tub heat up to temp?

RDspaguy, I keep my air controls open. Unless you are in a super windy environment it sounds like the hot tub isn’t heating. Is this a new issue? It could be that either the hot tub is in Econ mode and not heating or if when it was converted to 220V that the jumper setting wasn’t changed to allow the heater to run concurrently with the jet pump. The jumper settings are done through the control panel, it’s not a physical jumper.

What kind of temp drop are we talking about? How long are you using the hot tub and what kind of outside air temps do you have? Are there any other symbols or icons on the display? I have a 2020 SX running 115V. It was 27 degrees out this morning and my tub dropped from 103 to 102 during my 30 minute soak. But, there have been days when it’s windier outside and I’ve lost 3 degrees in 30 minutes.

Completely different system. No circulation pump, flow-through style heater.