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I've got a 2011 J-230 Jacuzzi hot tub. The 2-speed motor in it was getting pretty noisy, so I decided to replace it before it failed entirely. I bought a new LX Lingxiao 56 Frame Pump 4.0 HP 230 volts 56WUA400-II from spacare.com. I haven't done this replacement before. I've got the motor wired in and the tub refilled. When I turn on the breaker the motor starts for maybe a second or two, then shuts itself off. 240V is still being supplied by the control relay to the motor. I get an FL1 error shortly after, of course. I recorded a 1 min video of the setup and behavior: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mG0h4zFYGCE For those who have experience, does this seem like motor failure, or am I missing something with the replacement?

I also do not get the jets pump to start when I return power to the spa. Those used to come on right away. I can attach a video of what this is doing. I have purged all the air out of the system. The tub is full. The locked icon keeps flashing in the upper left corner of the display. If I remove the new circulation pump the display goes blank. The system is then quiet. Nothing running. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DvOVO-W2eIHrHhITzNY_6q34kJI8itZa/view?usp=sharing

I have a 2005 Sundance Spa series 850 the Capri model. There was some sort of jumper wire or remove a jumper that allows you to get the spa hotter than 104. Does anyone know how to do that? The circuit board is 6600-092 Rev D

SOLVED! Hello all, I was able to get the pump working and just wanted to post it in case someone has a similar issue and uses the search function. Since the pump started stalling just after I replaced the seals I figure it had to have been something I did when taking out the motor axle thing. The rear end bearing hits a little metal button switch when removing it so I think I bent it slightly when removing. A centrifugal switch should press the button switch mentioned above when not spinning. This makes sure the low speed start is engaged when powered on. Once the motor spins the centrifugal switch pulls back and "unpresses" the button switch; this deactivates the capacitor's start function and it runs properly. When I bent the button switch thing the centrifugal switch was not engaging the low speed start function of the capacitor so it would just start humming and then trip breaker. Anyway, glad to save $400 for now!

Depends on the sub panel. Chances are, no you can't run a 220V 30A and a 220V 20A feed to the sub from the main panel. Most sub panels have 2 bus bars for the breakers (one for the Red wire and one for the Black wire), a neutral bus bar (White wire) and a ground bus bar. To do what you propose requires 4 bus bars for power and I have not seen one of those. You could install 2 sub panels, that would do what you propose but I wouldn't do it that way unless the existing wires are not rated for 50A. What is the gauge wire on those 30A wires? If it's #6, change the main breaker feeding one of those wires to a 50A and go with it. If it's #8 and 50' or less, you are also good. You then have a 30A and a 20A in the sub panel for the tub. Make sure you have GFCI protection for both circuits.

I believe that failure to have a safety fence is the #1 danger to children.

I have a cape cod spa that I bought new in 2004. I have done some work to it over the years but recently I needed to replace 2 of the pumps and the control board and heater. It has a Balboa control board and the pump #3 fuse is blowing. The pump will start and spin almost 1 revolution then blow the fuse. The fuse on the control is a fast blow 10A 250v. This is the hot tubs 3rd control over the years, but I swear the original control was equipped with a slow blow fuse. Can anyone tell me if motor/pump fuses are typically fast or slow blow fuses. I am waiting for the retailer who sold me the control and heater to contact Balboa to confirm, but they have not been great at paying attention to what I said was happening. The last 2 controls I bought have been from the same company but the fuse on both controls came with fast blow fuses and it did work for a while. The new pump is rated for 10 amps and on start up does reach almost 40 amps when almost instantly drops down to about 3 amps of draw. I am told that this is normal which is why I am questioning the fuses that have come with the last 2 controls. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Chuck

I replaced the circulation pump and it is running but the relays on the circuit board that have 240V daisy chained are clicking off and on rapidly. Every so often they stop and the jet pump starts to run. Just all kinds of weird things going on. The original circulation pump shorted out and tripped the circuit breaker. With the pump removed the breaker stayed on but the display was blank. Now with the new pump, the display is back showing temp etc. but with the clicking of the relays. I noticed the heat icon keeps turning off and on. I also think I see in the upper corner the word "locked". The water coming out of the circulation pump is its normal force. NOW it went to all dashes on the display which means the controller shut down to protect the spa. I turned off the power to see if it would reset but it does not. What do you think would be my next troubleshooting idea?

Hi, I’m trying to fix my spa, pretty handy when it comes to electrical but I can’t figure out why it keeps resetting itself. I have replaced the motor thinking the motor was drawing to much amperage. Replaced the 30amp bus bar. Any help appreciated. 73733797323__F6AB3DE6-9437-4184-AEB9-7E886154361A.MOV

Just bumping this topic to see if anyone knows if this pump has a start capacitor. I replaced the only one located on the top; original was 50 uF and I replaced with a 55 uF (+/- 6%) and I'm having the same issues I priced a replacement pump/motor for $400 but would love to just repair this one if I can

I figured it out now, I didn't have one at all so looking on the top if my filter doesnt help.....:)

Pleatco messed me over on sizing my filter and refused to make it right. I now have 2 Pleatco filters that I purchased based on their own reccomendation that are 1/4 inch too tall and they blew me off. I’d call unicel. You can’t purchase a filter from them. Just see if they have your size.

https://www.poolandhottubdepot.com/how-to-find-the-right-hot-tub-filter/

Are there 3 dots flashing on the topside in between the numbers? Need to see photo of the schematic on the inside cover Is the pack new? Has it ever run properly without issue? When it stops heating does the circ pump continue to run?

I bought a used Hot Spring Envoy, the house I'm putting it in already has two unused 600v 30 amp wires running from my breaker box right to where I will put the sub box. Instead of running a single 220v 50amp wire from my main breaker, can't I run a 220v 30amp wire and a 220v 20amp wire from my main breaker box to the sub box?

All, I had a new liner installed in 2023. Regrettably, the corners right away did not fit correctly as you can see from the attached images. The installer said he would work on them throughout the summer. During the installation, they did use a machine to suck out all the air. As the summer came to an end, the installer "tried" to fix and said the best he could do would be a discount. I let the winter go by in hopes of the cold tightening up the corners, but this did not happen. Thus, I am stuck looks at this debacle. I was hoping for some ideas/suggestions to fix this situation. Best

I used to press the "light" button several times and the colors would change. It doesn't work anymore. I only have now one color mode. Has anyone else had this problem and how do I fix it? I own a 2012 Arctic Spa Klondiker

Ended up getting the EL2000 as per the link that was sent. Looks like a direct replacement and it will accept the existing top side controller. The BP7 looks like it would have worked as well, but would have had to change out the topside controller (which was included), but I decided to just go with the simplest replacement. My thanks to all that replied.

Need a filter for a Nordic escape standard about 2005-2007. The one that is supposed to work from a Nordic dealer has threads and the air filter component on my hot tub doesn’t??!

Thank you for your help, that was exactly what I was looking for.

Disclaimer: I have a 1988 CalSpa which uses a $15 heating element from the hardware store, so I have zero hands-on experience with yours. However, when I look at your photo, it looks like hard water deposit on the right side, just under where there are hose clamps on the two flexible tubes. If mine, I would definitely take those off and clean or replace, maybe with new hose clamps. If those flexible hoses are not the cause of your leak, I'd pull out the heater assembly and take it apart, and see if RTV or replacement gasket can fix your leak - you have nothing to lose except your time and a couple of dollars as your leak is way too much to ignore. RTV (especially RTV for automotive water pump and thermostat outlets) can handle way higher temperatures and pressures than your spa has. https://www.autozone.com/sealants-glues-adhesives-and-tape/sealant/p/permatex-blue-rtv-silicone-water-pump-thermostat-gasket-maker-0-5-oz/516195_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:PER:19332030449&&CATARGETID=120054150001286384&CADevice=c&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwrvyxBhAbEiwAEg_Kgrqxg854jyplORhxXyqsRiqE-dSvPLWaPNSU-9mtuiouOBX-uBrDqBoCxJcQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Pinch off and disconnect the 3/8" line or drain the spa and open the black end cover. Likely the pressure switch is leaking. Re do it with teflon tape or replace the pressure switch.

When i removed the filter it started to heat to 104, once it reach 104 it stop heating and stays at 93

I have a 2005 sundance capri hot tub and had to disconnect the circulation pump because it was tripping the 240 volt breaker. After disconnecting the pump the breaker stays on but the display does not show anything. I checked all the fuses and they are all good. Never had this happen before. I have replaced the circulation pump once before a few years ago and never had this problem. Any ideas what might have happened? I can't return the pump since it is an electrical item. Do I need a new circuit board? Could a short in the pump kill the circuit board? I know the pump trips the breaker but I would think without the pump connected the rest of the pumps etc. would show up on the display and work. Not sure if the pump caused it of something else in that circuit. Maybe I should try connecting pump to a 240 v source and see if it actually works. Any suggestions?