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Hi All, recently bought this tub and it has shell issues and wondering if it's anything I can have repaired, has anyone ever seen issues like this, the clear coat has gone hazy in places and there are also little spots of bubbling. When you rub your hands on it you can't feel any obvious clear coat issues and it's not flaking or anything, I paid $2500 for it so I really don't mind as it's only 4 years old but just wondering if there is a solution...maybe the previous owner over chlorinated it for a long time to keep it from turning. Has anyone ever re clear coated a tub before? Thank you

Another question similar to this issue which I belive went away when I changed the flow detect switch. I have changed the filter from the two filters normally used, a regular leaflet type and a solid white filter to a single long leaflet type. I am waiting for a replacement but noticed on the old one that there looks like a plug about half down the shaft inside that separates one end of the filter from the other. Is that normal? Does one end filter the circulating pump and the other one is used only when the jets are run? Is this a good practice to use just one of these long filters or keep with the original two filters...naturally it is all about cost. here is the filter I ordered. Sundance Double End 120, 6540-488, PSD125-2000, C-8326, FC-2780

Thanks for the reply! So yes the impeller unscrewed pretty easily just by hand and threads are good on the shaft and impeller is not broken so I did not replace it. Impeller screws back onto the shaft very easily and is not rubbing on the inside of the new seal. The motor and wet end have signs that it's been opened before me so maybe that's why it's in decent condition. I guess there is a possibility that the shaft has become longer due to the expansion you mentioned; this could cause additional pressure against the seal.. and maybe the old seal was just worn down enough to spin more freely? Additionally, since posting my issue I've found that it could be the capacitor on this AO Smith motor. Other's have reported a humming and motor not starting. This motor doesn't appear to have a start capacitor, just a run capacitor on the "doghouse" on top of the motor, but maybe it functions as both for this motor..? It looks like a cheap part so I may grab one for $13 and try it out. Any thoughts on the capacitor?

PS 1000 is correct. Usually when a seal fails and starts to leak what has happened is that the shaft of the motor just behind the thread where the impeller screws onto the shaft the metal of the shaft has fattened/expanded over time and it presses the impeller shaft apart and into the seal. Most impellers break when trying to get them off because the impeller shaft has cracked/split and locked into the seal. Most motor shafts have to be ground down to reduce it's size a bit so the impeller screws on easily and it spins freely in the seal when installed. Did the new impeller spin onto the shaft easily and did it bottom out?

google: 2011 sundance spa service parts catalog

Good morning, I recently acquired a Sundance Hamilton Spa. I trying to find a service manual on this spa as well as a parts diagram/manual, parts is needed the most. I've searched every place on the net that I can think of an no luck. From what I've found it is a 2008 780 Series Hamilton spa and I did find the owners manual online. I have the information below from the spa if anyone might have one or could point me in the right direction that would be greatly appreciated. Tag on the spa: Date: 02/22/07 Model# Hamilton Serial# OHM3LXD - 100270507 - 0307 Thanks!

The info is correct.

Glad you got it straightened out. As I said, they either reprogrammed the controller or changed settings on the heater. In your case it was the latter.

FC free chlorine CC combined chlorine or combined chloramines TC total chlorine pH Potential Hydrogen (how acidic or alkaline a solution is) TA total alkalinity (the measure of bicarbonate ions in the water) CH Calcium Hardness TH Total Hardness (calcium and magnesium--useless for balancing water but most test strips only test total hardness and not calcium hardness) CYA or CA cyanuric acid which is used to stabilize chlorine but too much will limit the disinfection ability Br bromine BCDMH Bromo-chloro-5,5-dimethylhydantoin (bromine tablets), normally used in a floater cal hypo calcium hypochlorite, an inorganic powdered chlorine source that adds 7 ppm CH for every 10 ppm of FC added and is net pH neutral on use (alkaline when added, acidic on sanitation) trichlor a slow dissolving organic chlorine source that adds 6 ppm CYA for every 10 ppm of FC added, It's extremely acidic (acidic when added, acidic on sanitation) and not normally recommended for hot tubs for this reason. It is normally used in a floater or feeder Dichlor a fast dissolving organic chlorine source that adds 9 ppm of CYA for every 10 ppm of FC added.It is slightly acidic (acidic when added, acidic on sanitation) Liquid Chlorine or Shock, plain unscented chlorine laundry bleach, sodium hypochlorite an inorganic liquid chlorine source that is net pH neutral on use (alkaline when added, acidic on sanitation). It's main side effect is causing a slight increase in salt level (sodium chloride), which has no negative effect on water chemistry.

FC free chlorine CC combined chlorine or combined chloramines TC total chlorine pH Potential Hydrogen (how acidic or alkaline a solution is) TA total alkalinity (the measure of bicarbonate ions in the water) CH Calcium Hardness TH Total Hardness (calcium and magnesium--useless for balancing water but most test strips only test total hardness and not calcium hardness) CYA or CA cyanuric acid which is used to stabilize chlorine but too much will limit the disinfection ability Br bromine BCDMH Bromo-chloro-5,5-dimethylhydantoin (bromine tablets), normally used in a floater cal hypo calcium hypochlorite, an inorganic powdered chlorine source that adds 7 ppm CH for every 10 ppm of FC added and is net pH neutral on use (alkaline when added, acidic on sanitation) trichlor a slow dissolving organic chlorine source that adds 6 ppm CYA for every 10 ppm of FC added, It's extremely acidic (acidic when added, acidic on sanitation) and not normally recommended for hot tubs for this reason. It is normally used in a floater or feeder Dichlor a fast dissolving organic chlorine source that adds 9 ppm of CYA for every 10 ppm of FC added.It is slightly acidic (acidic when added, acidic on sanitation) Liquid Chlorine or Shock, plain unscented chlorine laundry bleach, sodium hypochlorite an inorganic liquid chlorine source that is net pH neutral on use (alkaline when added, acidic on sanitation). It's main side effect is causing a slight increase in salt level (sodium chloride), which has no negative effect on water chemistry.

Hello all, I'm having an issue on my Leisure Bay G2 hot tub. It has 2 Waterway 56 frame motors/pumps. One of them (5hp) has 2 speeds; a low speed that should come on when powering up to circulate and the high speed jet for half the tub. I removed the motor/pump from the cabinet and replaced the spring seal and ceramic seal in the wet end of this 2 speed pump due to a slow drip. I never even disconnected the power from the control board, only ground wire. Leak is now fixed but when I turn on the breaker to power on the tub it makes a kind of buzzing or stalling sound at this motor and it does not spin. If I hit the high speed jet button for this motor then it comes on, then I can hit the button again to slow it to the lower circulation speed and it works great. What happens is it circulates water this way and the heater heats up the tub, then it turns off as it should until the next circulation cycle. When the next cycle comes time the pump stalls again when trying to start at low speed from being stopped. Essentially it seems that the low speed is not enough power to get it spinning and after awhile trying it trips the breaker. If I'm there to hit the jets and then back to low speed then it seems to work okay, but I won't be there waiting for that every time haha! I've taken out the motor again, confirmed wiring for continuity and connections are all ok and secure from the board to the motor. I even removed the spring seal and reinstalled to make sure it's fully seated (it's fully seated now and was before also). The bearings in the motor are great, very smooth and it spins freely very easily when the wet end is NOT connected. When the wet end pump is ON the motor I notice it's definitely harder to spin the motor freely. It seems that the new spring seal might be pressing against the ceramic seal with more force than the old leaky one and this might be binding up the low speed function. Is this common? Should I have bought the complete wet end instead? This might sound dumb but should I apply some grease where the spring seal meets the ceramic since that seems to be the sticky spot? I appreciate any insight!! The seal I purchased appears to be the correct part ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BY5MHRY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details )

Spa Board Doctor - repairable how? Feel free to PM me at Alan @oddpost.com my friend in Canada - the spa is 18 years old, so replacing the “engine” is not a surprise., ill try the persistent mem switch and test mode, but my gut says it’s fried. seems like the Spapack that you mention in your link and the Balboa Bp7 look like good candidates. They might even be the same, as balboa seems a bit cagey. a few years ago, I’d have no problem fixing it myself, but age is creeping up on me. Fortunately, I have some relatively honest spa techs around. thanks for your replies. Gives me more faith in the internet

Well, believe it or not I actually figured it out myself. The issue came down to the fact that they took the heater out of bypass operation. The heater must be in bypass operation in order to be remote controlled by the pool controller. once I placed it back in bypass operation and tested, it functioned normally. Thank you very much for taking your time to respond to my post! Have a great week!

I'll try and make this long story short. Hot tub stopped working ( GFCI kept tripping ) and initial I thought it was heater element because I was away for two and half weeks and the water dropped significantly...so figured I got a dry fire and burned out the heater element. Unfortunately did not have a multi meter with me to test and just went and bought a new heater element. Replaced that and the GFCI still instantly tripped, even faster than before. So did some trouble shooting and when I got to unplugging pump two everything fired right up and GFCI didn't trip. Now when I unplugged pump 2 I noticed that there was a bit of water dripping out of where the connector plugged in. My shut offs on the pipes are a bit leaky so when I was replacing the heater element some water must have dripped on the connector. Anyway this is a 2 pump system, with the number 1 pump running at high and low. The second pump, from what i can tell only runs the lounger jets. So is it ok to run just the main pump for a little bit until I figure out what's going on with pump 2 ? I'm thinking the water in the connector was why it was tripping the GFCI now so I thought I'd just let it air out for a couple days before plugging back in. Thanks in advance for any help out info.

Thanks all for this content. New hot tub owner here. I am convinced about the chemistry and utility of this method and am planning on starting up my new J315 next week using this method. My only question is that as the last comment in May 2023, approximately a year ago, is this all still correct? Is there anything else that I need to be looking at that is more current about this method? Thanks in advance.

I recently had one of these in front of me and experienced the same problem. Installed a brand new heater board and randomly on reboot the red and green heater board LEDs would go solid and work but most of the time green solid but red flashing (no heater relay engagement). I ended up trying an older generation 3-relay board that I had refurbished and it worked every time. Moral of the story is that the older generations of theses heater boards usually fail at the relays which are repairable - don't throw them out. The newer generation heater boards seem to be over engineered and finicky. SpaBoardDoctor

Hello, The solid "OHH" error is caused by a failed component on the circuit board. This is a repairable failure. SpaBoardDoctor

The heater just buy an element and not the entire heater tube assembly. I have dealt with many power surges in the past and they can do a lot of damage to spa packs and you have to go through each step along the way. I have the advantage of having parts available to check each step. I would order and install a new heater element as you know it's damaged and tripping the breaker. Next I am trying a memory rest. If that fails then I am on to sensors. Testing or replacing. If all that fails a new spa pack. Or go straight to the pack replacement and get it all in one. 54301 replacement. See notes here: https://www.hottuboutpost.com/coleman-460-spa-pack-103735-balboa-powerworks-el2000/ "Existing pack may say 54301-01 on the top of the Balboa EL2000 Series control box."

I'm talking to ownership first and make sure they are actually aware of your displeasure. Contact Bullfrog and also make them aware. You were given advice to vette the dealer as much and the brand and price before you bought. You took a gamble and selected price and product but lost on the dealer. New to the business and without a track record. I might have made the same choice. That's life. I'm sure once you get past this you will have years of enjoyment.

Saw the instincts for persistent memory and test mode. Right now, the hearer appears to be the culprit for tripping the GFCI. Now disconnected just OHH and the pump will try to prme i try the test mode and persistent men dip swithes and see if that goes anywhere. looks like I’ll need a new heater, and possibly a new logic board. Since Balboa does not make 54301 anymore, I may have to go for a new spa pack and topside controller (ugh), thanks for your replies!

My hot tub started to leak and it’s losing water pretty fast. I removed the panel and the leak is coming from the heater - I called the company and they told me it’s $800 for new heater. This is an old tub and I don’t really want to invest a large amount of money so wondering if anyone has any idea on how to fix this? I removed the back cover from the black box on the right end and the water is coming from the top area where I assume some electrical device is - not sure what it is called. I am attaching a picture to show where it is leaking. Thank you. IMG_7883.mov

I ended up replacing the motherboard and front and aux panels in my Envoy since they were in various states of disrepair. The spa is working great now, and as an update, four years later, the shut-off issue is solved. Going back to my original manual, I found there is a timer that shuts off the spa pumps after two hours of continuous use. I'm looking forward to getting another decade or two out of my spa!

@CanadianSpaTech Good idea to just forget about my salesman, and just go directly to the store's owner and deal with him directly, because HE has to authorize paying me reimbursement for the cover lifter and the promised Internet Kit. Thanks for the idea that a new 'cover' for the hot tub cover assembly could be an option if they have an issue with my return. I am tempted to carefully mask and spray the white Flex Tape to match the color of the underside vinyl, dry it out well, wrap it in the plastic (Ha, I may even still have the original plastic it came in ;o) and turn it in that way and not mention the repair. I honestly believe the repair will last as long as the cover and would be fine keeping that repaired outer covering, but of course it would not fit the correct cover for my spa. Social Media: Is it better to post negative reviews, THEN go to them? Would that be akin to your suggestion of sharing my dissatisfaction with them when physical customers are present? That actually would be easier, because there is a good chance there will be no one in their store when I go there to get this all taken care of. I have not played the social media card yet. I figured I'd wait until I either get things ironed out with the dealer or hit a wall and I am displeased with the final outcome. Good information sir. I feel better going in to work this all out with the info you have shared. Thank you. My 'salesman' is the stepson of the owner and his stepdad hired him to open a new store in Tracy. The owner's other two stores are in Oakdale, ≈ 35 mins further away from me. The first store is Fireplaces. This is the store the owner works out of and has been around a long time. He is a fireplace guy that added hot tubs just early in 2023 when he opened a second store in the same town of Oakdale with fireplaces & hot tubs (not Bullfrog) in early 2023. I'm not sure if he approached Bullfrog or visa versa, but in October 2023, he opened a third store for Bullfrog spas & fireplaces in Tracy. That is where I bought my hot tub from. In early January of this year, he had not yet sold any hot tubs. I guess that is why he was highly motivated to give me a very low price on a floor model A6L Select. The Select is the highest price trim level. I would not have gone for that trim level except for the fact that he had this tub on the floor, he could deliver it in a week (ha, ha), it had never been wet tested (except at the factory) and was built just 2.5 months prior. So the price was amazing and well below what the larger Bay Area Bullfrog dealer would sell one of their floor models for. I felt that between (my perception of) the brand quality and the price savings, I was willing to take a risk on a brand-new dealer, knowing their service people, being fireplace installers, had next to no hot tub experience. They had been to the Bullfrog factory for training, but that is a small thing. Turns out that they ended up closing the Tracy Bullfrog store last month and moved the Bullfrog tubs from Tracy to their Oakdale hot tub/ fireplace store. Any service I was to get was always coming from their Oakdale location(s) anyway, so no change there.

Sounds like they either reprogrammed your controller or changed some settings on the heater itself but without knowing what they did it's pretty hard to help you. I suggest you contact them and ask what they changed and let them know that after their "inspection" your pool equipment is not functioning correctly.

Post up pictures of your spa pack, the wiring diagram usually found on the inside cover and of the equipment area. Do you have a multimeter and know how to use one?