Keys/image Spa - Balboa Heater Test Procedure

[Paradiddle]

I have a Keys/Image/Icon Spa that tripped the breaker and won't reset. I pulled off the straps to the heater and now it stays on fine and everything else works. I get 115V from both strips when not connected. Is the heater shorted?

I also pulled each component out especially the #1 pump that I just replaced 6 weeks ago but it looks like the heater.

Balboa 4.0kw 240V 58064/58031

Can I just replace the element? - I see them available for $40 vs $200 for a whole assy.

or those universal heaters for $110?

[Roger]

I have a Keys/Image Spa that tripped the breaker and won't reset. I pulled off the straps to the heater and now it stays on fine and everything else works. I get 115V from both strips when not connected. Is the heater shorted?

I also pulled each component out especially the #1 pump that I just replaced 6 weeks ago but it looks like the heater. Balboa 4.0kw 240V

With the heater dissconnected check the continuity from post to post. I should read continuity.

[Paradiddle]

I have a Keys/Image Spa that tripped the breaker and won't reset. I pulled off the straps to the heater and now it stays on fine and everything else works. I get 115V from both strips when not connected. Is the heater shorted?

I also pulled each component out especially the #1 pump that I just replaced 6 weeks ago but it looks like the heater. Balboa 4.0kw 240V

With the heater dissconnected check the continuity from post to post. I should read continuity.

I get continuity when disconnected. I get 120v from each leg on the board disconnected.

I reconnect it pop breaker. I disconnect and it works. I also got a "24" on control panel on powerup.

[ps558]

I have a Keys/Image Spa that tripped the breaker and won't reset. I pulled off the straps to the heater and now it stays on fine and everything else works. I get 115V from both strips when not connected. Is the heater shorted?

I also pulled each component out especially the #1 pump that I just replaced 6 weeks ago but it looks like the heater. Balboa 4.0kw 240V

With the heater dissconnected check the continuity from post to post. I should read continuity.

I get continuity when disconnected. I get 120v from each leg on the board disconnected.

I reconnect it pop breaker. I disconnect and it works. I also got a "24" on control panel on powerup.

The heater is bad. Balboa heaters can read continuity and be still be bad. you can get a replacement element which is not easy to do. The best bet is to replace it with a universal fast flo heater. These heaters have removeable plugs to fit any sensors or switches mounted to the heater

here is a link to elements

http://www.spaguts.com/Product.aspx?ID=2

here is a link to entire assembly

http://www.spaguts.com/Product.aspx?ID=131 Would have to remove hose clamps

I have been using these on my repairs and so far happy about the performance. Make sure you pick KW as close as possable to the original.

I don't know if you know but ICON spa products are on limited availablity, but all main stuff can subbed with different pumps, ozonator, spa packs

[Roger]

I have a Keys/Image Spa that tripped the breaker and won't reset. I pulled off the straps to the heater and now it stays on fine and everything else works. I get 115V from both strips when not connected. Is the heater shorted?

I also pulled each component out especially the #1 pump that I just replaced 6 weeks ago but it looks like the heater. Balboa 4.0kw 240V

With the heater dissconnected check the continuity from post to post. I should read continuity.

I get continuity when disconnected. I get 120v from each leg on the board disconnected.

I reconnect it pop breaker. I disconnect and it works. I also got a "24" on control panel on powerup.

If it reads good continuity now lets check ohms let me know what you get. It does sound like a bad heater.

[Paradiddle]

I have a Keys/Image Spa that tripped the breaker and won't reset. I pulled off the straps to the heater and now it stays on fine and everything else works. I get 115V from both strips when not connected. Is the heater shorted?

I also pulled each component out especially the #1 pump that I just replaced 6 weeks ago but it looks like the heater. Balboa 4.0kw 240V

With the heater dissconnected check the continuity from post to post. I should read continuity.

I get continuity when disconnected. I get 120v from each leg on the board disconnected.

I reconnect it pop breaker. I disconnect and it works. I also got a "24" on control panel on powerup.

The heater is bad. Balboa heaters can read continuity and be still be bad. you can get a replacement element which is not easy to do. The best bet is to replace it with a universal fast flo heater. These heaters have removeable plugs to fit any sensors or switches mounted to the heater

here is a link to elements

http://www.spaguts.com/Product.aspx?ID=2

here is a link to entire assembly

http://www.spaguts.com/Product.aspx?ID=131 Would have to remove hose clamps

I have been using these on my repairs and so far happy about the performance. Make sure you pick KW as close as possable to the original.

I don't know if you know but ICON spa products are on limited availablity, but all main stuff can subbed with different pumps, ozonator, spa packs

I would like to use that spaguts assy. Will the sensors screw into those ports on each end? Looks like pipe thread.

I also found a good price on Balboa http://www.poolsupplyworld.com/pool-parts/...tsinc-9711-218/ for $150. Is this a reputable place?

[Paradiddle]

<!--quoteo(post=99616:date=Jan 31 2010, 02:49 PM:name=ps558)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (ps558 @ Jan 31 2010, 02:49 PM) <a href="index.php?act=findpost&pid=99616"><{POST_SNAPBACK}></a></div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec--><!--quoteo(post=99612:date=Jan 31 2010, 01:15 PM:name=Paradiddle)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Paradiddle @ Jan 31 2010, 01:15 PM) <a href="index.php?act=findpost&pid=99612"><{POST_SNAPBACK}></a></div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec--><!--quoteo(post=99609:date=Jan 31 2010, 01:03 PM:name=Roger)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Roger @ Jan 31 2010, 01:03 PM) <a href="index.php?act=findpost&pid=99609"><{POST_SNAPBACK}></a></div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec--><!--quoteo(post=99608:date=Jan 31 2010, 11:48 AM:name=Paradiddle)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Paradiddle @ Jan 31 2010, 11:48 AM) <a href="index.php?act=findpost&pid=99608"><{POST_SNAPBACK}></a></div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->I have a Keys/Image Spa that tripped the breaker and won't reset. I pulled off the straps to the heater and now it stays on fine and everything else works. I get 115V from both strips when not connected. Is the heater shorted?

I also pulled each component out especially the #1 pump that I just replaced 6 weeks ago but it looks like the heater. Balboa 4.0kw 240V<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->

With the heater dissconnected check the continuity from post to post. I should read continuity.

<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->

I get continuity when disconnected. I get 120v from each leg on the board disconnected.

I reconnect it pop breaker. I disconnect and it works. I also got a "24" on control panel on powerup.

<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->

The heater is bad. Balboa heaters can read continuity and be still be bad. you can get a replacement element which is not easy to do. The best bet is to replace it with a universal fast flo heater. These heaters have removeable plugs to fit any sensors or switches mounted to the heater

here is a link to elements

<a href="http://www.spaguts.com/Product.aspx?ID=2" target="_blank">http://www.spaguts.com/Product.aspx?ID=2</a>

here is a link to entire assembly

<a href="http://www.spaguts.com/Product.aspx?ID=131" target="_blank">http://www.spaguts.com/Product.aspx?ID=131</a> Would have to remove hose clamps

I have been using these on my repairs and so far happy about the performance. Make sure you pick KW as close as possable to the original.

I don't know if you know but ICON spa products are on limited availablity, but all main stuff can subbed with different pumps, ozonator, spa packs

<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->

I would like to use that spaguts assy. Will the sensors screw into those ports on each end? Looks like pipe thread.

I also found a good price on Balboa <a href="http://www.poolsupplyworld.com/pool-parts/balboainstrumentsinc-9711-218/" target="_blank">http://www.poolsupplyworld.com/pool-parts/...tsinc-9711-218/</a> for $150. Is this a reputable place?

I never followed up on this - I replaced element only and it fixed it for a month but then crapped out and popped breaker again. I didn't look at it until this past weekend.

The board was fried at one of the contact points for the element. I disconnected the heater and the spa control worked just fine. What happened??

[Dr. Spa]

Probably a loose connection.

[n1oty]

Another possibility is a damaged cold pin on the heater when he replaced the element. I've seen plenty of newbs fail to adequately protect that seal around the cold pin and a month or two later the element shorts out. The time frame he mentions sure sounds like that.

John

Probably a loose connection.

[n1oty]

And a closer examination of the cold pin in the picture sure looks like a damaged seal to me. It looks like it started at the cold pin, surged through the copper strap and blew at the board connection because that is the weakest link in the chain. Look how charred the copper strap is though.

John

Another possibility is a damaged cold pin on the heater when he replaced the element. I've seen plenty of newbs fail to adequately protect that seal around the cold pin and a month or two later the element shorts out. The time frame he mentions sure sounds like that.

John

Probably a loose connection.

[Paradiddle]

And a closer examination of the cold pin in the picture sure looks like a damaged seal to me. It looks like it started at the cold pin, surged through the copper strap and blew at the board connection because that is the weakest link in the chain. Look how charred the copper strap is though.

John

Another possibility is a damaged cold pin on the heater when he replaced the element. I've seen plenty of newbs fail to adequately protect that seal around the cold pin and a month or two later the element shorts out. The time frame he mentions sure sounds like that.

John

Probably a loose connection.

I don't remember if I tightened the bottom nut against the top. I probably just tightened the top nut. expensive learning curve for me.....

[n1oty]

Well, it is difficult to do a proper forensic exam without the actual parts and/or a very high res picture, but the area at the bottom of the cold pin where it meets the ceramic seal definitely looks damaged in the photo. It isn't a case where you want to turn BOTH. It is imperative that the cold pin be very stable as you tighten the nut on the top. You cannot allow it to bend or twist. This is where most homeowners or even garage technicians screw up and it can be quite costly.

John

And a closer examination of the cold pin in the picture sure looks like a damaged seal to me. It looks like it started at the cold pin, surged through the copper strap and blew at the board connection because that is the weakest link in the chain. Look how charred the copper strap is though.

John

Another possibility is a damaged cold pin on the heater when he replaced the element. I've seen plenty of newbs fail to adequately protect that seal around the cold pin and a month or two later the element shorts out. The time frame he mentions sure sounds like that.

John

Probably a loose connection.

I don't remember if I tightened the bottom nut against the top. I probably just tightened the top nut. expensive learning curve for me.....

[Roger]

Well, it is difficult to do a proper forensic exam without the actual parts and/or a very high res picture, but the area at the bottom of the cold pin where it meets the ceramic seal definitely looks damaged in the photo. It isn't a case where you want to turn BOTH. It is imperative that the cold pin be very stable as you tighten the nut on the top. You cannot allow it to bend or twist. This is where most homeowners or even garage technicians screw up and it can be quite costly.

John

And a closer examination of the cold pin in the picture sure looks like a damaged seal to me. It looks like it started at the cold pin, surged through the copper strap and blew at the board connection because that is the weakest link in the chain. Look how charred the copper strap is though.

John

Another possibility is a damaged cold pin on the heater when he replaced the element. I've seen plenty of newbs fail to adequately protect that seal around the cold pin and a month or two later the element shorts out. The time frame he mentions sure sounds like that.

John

Probably a loose connection.

I don't remember if I tightened the bottom nut against the top. I probably just tightened the top nut. expensive learning curve for me.....

Hey!!!!!!!!! I'm a garage tech and I have never done that!! Could be the hundreds and hundreds of ceramic heater tube installs over the years in hot water heaters, fountain water supplys, gas furnace sending units and thermo's and all the other crap!

[n1oty]

Somehow Roger, I don't envision you being careless with cold pins!!

John

Well, it is difficult to do a proper forensic exam without the actual parts and/or a very high res picture, but the area at the bottom of the cold pin where it meets the ceramic seal definitely looks damaged in the photo. It isn't a case where you want to turn BOTH. It is imperative that the cold pin be very stable as you tighten the nut on the top. You cannot allow it to bend or twist. This is where most homeowners or even garage technicians screw up and it can be quite costly.

John

And a closer examination of the cold pin in the picture sure looks like a damaged seal to me. It looks like it started at the cold pin, surged through the copper strap and blew at the board connection because that is the weakest link in the chain. Look how charred the copper strap is though.

John

Another possibility is a damaged cold pin on the heater when he replaced the element. I've seen plenty of newbs fail to adequately protect that seal around the cold pin and a month or two later the element shorts out. The time frame he mentions sure sounds like that.

John

Probably a loose connection.

I don't remember if I tightened the bottom nut against the top. I probably just tightened the top nut. expensive learning curve for me.....

Hey!!!!!!!!! I'm a garage tech and I have never done that!! Could be the hundreds and hundreds of ceramic heater tube installs over the years in hot water heaters, fountain water supplys, gas furnace sending units and thermo's and all the other crap!

[Paradiddle]

It's fixed and all i paid for was a new heating element. I was able to save the board with fix