Cal Spa Sn Code Not Clearing After Sensor Were Replaced

[CollinHenderson]

I have a 2000 Cal Spa Newporter which I bought from a friend. I worked fine for 6 months until an SN code started to pop up. The SN code means the sensors, "High Limit or Temp Sensor", is going bad. I replaced both sensors and now when I flip the breaker back on, the tub makes a click noise and it doesn't start up. The breaker did not trip and the SN code still appears on the display. When I flip the breaker off then on, I can hear the click coming from the pump area but I can't really tell. Does anybody have any suggestions other than replacing the board? Thanks in advance,

Collin

[Pathfinder]

Are you waiting the 3 mins for the controls to come out of prime mode?? you can also get out of prime mode by pressing the temp controls.

[CollinHenderson]

Are you waiting the 3 mins for the controls to come out of prime mode?? you can also get out of prime mode by pressing the temp controls.

The SN code didn't go away even with time. I also tried pressing the temp controls with no luck.

I did have some progress this weekend although. I started probing around with my multimeter and when I touched the probe ends to the safety switch, "the relay looking device with the blue cover over it located on the pipe just before the pump", the tub turned on and the code disapeared. It heated up to 100 where I set it to. The next morning the SN code was back and the tub was off. I tried the probing method again with no luck. When testing the flow meters, the voltage jumped from 0 to 13 volts over and over again. I don't know if this is normal because I do not have the tech specs. Any ideas?

[CollinHenderson]

Update: I went out this morning and started doing a few tests. First I tested the Safety vaccume switchs and both of them tested the same. They seemed to be ok as far as I know. I traced both of the switchs back to the board and both of them connect to the (J44) 2 pin connector. With the power off I tested the connecter and it had continuity between both pins. With the power on, the votlage jumped back and fourth between 0 and 13 volts. I heard that with the switchs disconnected, the spa should run, but mine does not. I also tested all the fuses on the board and all were good. I'm still at a loss. Does anyone know where I can get the schematics for my board (Balboa 2200 series). I have a 2000 Newporter by Cal Spas. Thanks

[Roger]

Are you waiting the 3 mins for the controls to come out of prime mode?? you can also get out of prime mode by pressing the temp controls.

The SN code didn't go away even with time. I also tried pressing the temp controls with no luck.

I did have some progress this weekend although. I started probing around with my multimeter and when I touched the probe ends to the safety switch, "the relay looking device with the blue cover over it located on the pipe just before the pump", the tub turned on and the code disapeared. It heated up to 100 where I set it to. The next morning the SN code was back and the tub was off. I tried the probing method again with no luck. When testing the flow meters, the voltage jumped from 0 to 13 volts over and over again. I don't know if this is normal because I do not have the tech specs. Any ideas?

I would be suspect of that blue looking relay before the pump, freeze control probe maybe? See if there is a way to bypass it and force the system on. The best way to find a problem like this is to start with one component at a time and either bypass it or replace it untill the fauty component is located. You may end up back at the board but you will eliminate the other componets along the way.

[CollinHenderson]

Are you waiting the 3 mins for the controls to come out of prime mode?? you can also get out of prime mode by pressing the temp controls.

The SN code didn't go away even with time. I also tried pressing the temp controls with no luck.

I did have some progress this weekend although. I started probing around with my multimeter and when I touched the probe ends to the safety switch, "the relay looking device with the blue cover over it located on the pipe just before the pump", the tub turned on and the code disapeared. It heated up to 100 where I set it to. The next morning the SN code was back and the tub was off. I tried the probing method again with no luck. When testing the flow meters, the voltage jumped from 0 to 13 volts over and over again. I don't know if this is normal because I do not have the tech specs. Any ideas?

I would be suspect of that blue looking relay before the pump, freeze control probe maybe? See if there is a way to bypass it and force the system on. The best way to find a problem like this is to start with one component at a time and either bypass it or replace it untill the fauty component is located. You may end up back at the board but you will eliminate the other componets along the way.

I bought a new pressure switch relay, "the one attached on the pipe just before the heater", installed it and the tub turned right on. I came out in the morning and the tub was off once again with the same SN code. I disconnected the safety suction switchs/relays and had no luck. Am I running in circles? Help please.

[CollinHenderson]

Are you waiting the 3 mins for the controls to come out of prime mode?? you can also get out of prime mode by pressing the temp controls.

The SN code didn't go away even with time. I also tried pressing the temp controls with no luck.

I did have some progress this weekend although. I started probing around with my multimeter and when I touched the probe ends to the safety switch, "the relay looking device with the blue cover over it located on the pipe just before the pump", the tub turned on and the code disapeared. It heated up to 100 where I set it to. The next morning the SN code was back and the tub was off. I tried the probing method again with no luck. When testing the flow meters, the voltage jumped from 0 to 13 volts over and over again. I don't know if this is normal because I do not have the tech specs. Any ideas?

I would be suspect of that blue looking relay before the pump, freeze control probe maybe? See if there is a way to bypass it and force the system on. The best way to find a problem like this is to start with one component at a time and either bypass it or replace it untill the fauty component is located. You may end up back at the board but you will eliminate the other componets along the way.

I bought a new pressure switch relay, "the one attached on the pipe just before the heater", installed it and the tub turned right on. I came out in the morning and the tub was off once again with the same SN code. I disconnected the safety suction switchs/relays and had no luck. Am I running in circles? Help please.

OK, I gave up after I tried everything. I had a tech come out and replace my board. My Spa started up and has been working good for a week without any problems. Yesterday a new problem popped up. The temp says it is at 110. I turned the temp down to 90 and it still read 105 after 12 hours. Suggestions?

[CollinHenderson]

Are you waiting the 3 mins for the controls to come out of prime mode?? you can also get out of prime mode by pressing the temp controls.

The SN code didn't go away even with time. I also tried pressing the temp controls with no luck.

I did have some progress this weekend although. I started probing around with my multimeter and when I touched the probe ends to the safety switch, "the relay looking device with the blue cover over it located on the pipe just before the pump", the tub turned on and the code disapeared. It heated up to 100 where I set it to. The next morning the SN code was back and the tub was off. I tried the probing method again with no luck. When testing the flow meters, the voltage jumped from 0 to 13 volts over and over again. I don't know if this is normal because I do not have the tech specs. Any ideas?

I would be suspect of that blue looking relay before the pump, freeze control probe maybe? See if there is a way to bypass it and force the system on. The best way to find a problem like this is to start with one component at a time and either bypass it or replace it untill the fauty component is located. You may end up back at the board but you will eliminate the other componets along the way.

I bought a new pressure switch relay, "the one attached on the pipe just before the heater", installed it and the tub turned right on. I came out in the morning and the tub was off once again with the same SN code. I disconnected the safety suction switchs/relays and had no luck. Am I running in circles? Help please.

OK, I gave up after I tried everything. I had a tech come out and replace my board. My Spa started up and has been working good for a week without any problems. Yesterday a new problem popped up. The temp says it is at 110. I turned the temp down to 90 and it still read 105 after 12 hours. Suggestions?

One of the pumps went out . I had a new pump installed last weekend and everything worked just fine. Ahh no more problems. Right. Nope, I drained and cleaned my spa and now the main breaker won't stay on. It keeps breaking right away. I think I hate CAL SPAS!!!

[Roger]

One of the pumps went out . I had a new pump installed last weekend and everything worked just fine. Ahh no more problems. Right. Nope, I drained and cleaned my spa and now the main breaker won't stay on. It keeps breaking right away. I think I hate CAL SPAS!!!

Hey that's over 7 years on a Calspa. They are not the highest quality tub and they are inexpensive. Costco is going to sell them. I think you did good, time for a new one.

I have a few of them around here that are a constant babysit for me and they are getting to be 6-7 years old. If you pay 3-5 grand for a tub you get about 5-8 years out of them before they start to become non cost effective to repair. If you pay 5-8 grand your will get 10-15 years. Both choices may be satisfactory for a particular buyer. But if you buy cheap and have expensive expectations you WILL be dissapointed