D1 Diplomat And Vision Cartridge

[hoopy]

Hot N Wet, thanks for the reply. What if I don't add shock after every use but instead add a cap full of it once a week. Would this be enough? This is saying that the tub is beign used 2-4 times a week.

[hottubdan]

Hot N Wet, thanks for the reply. What if I don't add shock after every use but instead add a cap full of it once a week. Would this be enough? This is saying that the tub is beign used 2-4 times a week.

If you are following the Vision program (D1's private label Nature 2) you should add shock before each use. Many of our customers add it after each use. The amount depends on your volume of water.

[Brulan1]

So my question still remains, do I have to add a cap full of shock (Renew) after EVERY time I use the spa?

Only 1-2 oz after every use

[Hot N Wet]

Only 1-2 oz after every use

Basic Maintenance calls for at least a 1/4 cup of shock weekly. D1's vision system basically goes above and beyound to ensure that if you follow their program your water will remain crispy, sparkly clear. See what works for you and your usage, but mind you, if your water goes to hell you might be investing more in chemicals to resolve the chemistry issue than you would following the D1 prescription. Good Luck.

[Brulan1]

Basic Maintenance calls for at least a 1/4 cup of shock weekly. D1's vision system basically goes above and beyound to ensure that if you follow their program your water will remain crispy, sparkly clear. See what works for you and your usage, but mind you, if your water goes to hell you might be investing more in chemicals to resolve the chemistry issue than you would following the D1 prescription. Good Luck.

1/4 cup = 2 oz.

[sharkman009]

Hot N Wet, thanks for the reply. What if I don't add shock after every use but instead add a cap full of it once a week. Would this be enough? This is saying that the tub is beign used 2-4 times a week.

Make sure that you are testing the water regularly too. That is going to tell you if you are keeping up on the sanitizer in your spa. Even with the ionizer cartridge you still need to maintain a chlorine residual to keep bacteria from growing in the warm water.

One of the things you described is an odor from the spa, if it is a musty smell then you definately have bacteria present.

I wouldnt allow anyone to use the spa until you get it cleared up. You dont want anyone else breaking out, That stuff is miserable.

[hoopy]

I talked to my dealer about the smell and he asked if I only smell it when I lift the cover off. I said yes and he said that it is ozone that is trapped in there when the cover is on. Does this sound right? I just tested my chemicals yesterday and the PH was a little high (added some PH Down) but the akalinity was perfect. I also noticed that the Free Chroline level is very low but my dealer said I shouldn't worry about that. With using the Vision cartridge, what should the Free Chlorine read?

[spatech (the unreal one)]

I talked to my dealer about the smell and he asked if I only smell it when I lift the cover off. I said yes and he said that it is ozone that is trapped in there when the cover is on. Does this sound right? I just tested my chemicals yesterday and the PH was a little high (added some PH Down) but the akalinity was perfect. I also noticed that the Free Chroline level is very low but my dealer said I shouldn't worry about that. With using the Vision cartridge, what should the Free Chlorine read?

1) I'm not sure what smell you're referring to but ozone can definitely leave a smell that would pretty much disipate by opening the cover. You could simply unplug the ozone for a few days and se if it goes away and then plug it back in and see if teh smell returns.

2) Using a N2 cartridge is a good move IMO. However, while you may use a bit less sanitizer you really shouldn't alter your levels just because you've added the N2 so keep your sanitizer levels right where you had them pre N2 IMO. The fact the N2 is there should allow you to keep the free levels up a little easier with a bit less chlorine. Don't belive the hype of using nearly no chlorine with N2 and ozone, they are a great help IMO but they don't totally take away the need to use a sanitizer.

[Brulan1]

I talked to my dealer about the smell and he asked if I only smell it when I lift the cover off. I said yes and he said that it is ozone that is trapped in there when the cover is on. Does this sound right? I just tested my chemicals yesterday and the PH was a little high (added some PH Down) but the akalinity was perfect. I also noticed that the Free Chroline level is very low but my dealer said I shouldn't worry about that. With using the Vision cartridge, what should the Free Chlorine read?

Free chlorine should only read directly after you put chlorine in but not much thereafter. The mildew smell has nothing to do with ozone. Just spray lysol on the 1st half of the cover and let it set in for 5 minutes and wipe down. Do the same for the other inside of the cover. That will work great! Also check your filter cartridge or give it an acid wash or filter cleaner.

[sharkman009]

I talked to my dealer about the smell and he asked if I only smell it when I lift the cover off. I said yes and he said that it is ozone that is trapped in there when the cover is on. Does this sound right? I just tested my chemicals yesterday and the PH was a little high (added some PH Down) but the akalinity was perfect. I also noticed that the Free Chroline level is very low but my dealer said I shouldn't worry about that. With using the Vision cartridge, what should the Free Chlorine read?

The dealer is right if the smell is more of a chemical smell. Its kind of hard to describe the smell of ozone it smells like after a lightning storm as lightning creates ozone. But if the smell is musty or stinks you have a bacteria problem and the fact that you have a low residual of chlorine will reaffirm this. Even with the cartridge you should always maintain a chlorine residual ALWAYS. The cartridge will make it so you dont use as much chlorine but it does not do away with chlorine.

The problem that you have when the chlorine residual is gone is that any bacteria introduced into the spa can and will grow fast. The bacteria count will triple every twenty four hours so it doesnt take long for it to get out of hand.

[Brulan1]

The dealer is right if the smell is more of a chemical smell. Its kind of hard to describe the smell of ozone it smells like after a lightning storm as lightning creates ozone. But if the smell is musty or stinks you have a bacteria problem and the fact that you have a low residual of chlorine will reaffirm this. Even with the cartridge you should always maintain a chlorine residual ALWAYS. The cartridge will make it so you dont use as much chlorine but it does not do away with chlorine.

The problem that you have when the chlorine residual is gone is that any bacteria introduced into the spa can and will grow fast. The bacteria count will triple every twenty four hours so it doesnt take long for it to get out of hand.

Alot of the time the smell could be coming from the cover itself! All that condensation build up gives it a musty smell and so does the actual filter cartridge itself. Dont just throw more chlorine to hide the smell you have to find out where the smell is coming from 1st.

[sharkman009]

Alot of the time the smell could be coming from the cover itself! All that condensation build up gives it a musty smell and so does the actual filter cartridge itself. Dont just throw more chlorine to hide the smell you have to find out where the smell is coming from 1st.

If he has no chlorine residual, the water is cloudy, his wife broke out with a rash what other evidence do you need that he has a sanitizer problem?

[Brulan1]

If he has no chlorine residual, the water is cloudy, his wife broke out with a rash what other evidence do you need that he has a sanitizer problem?

Very true I didn't read the rash part, your right. Also use a little baking soda and that could help with the rash believe it or not. And keep it properly sanitized

[hoopy]

The rash is gone and my wife just went back in and the rash didn't come back. The water is clear, the ph and alkalinity is also good. I was just wondering what the Free Chlorine should read. I check with test strips every day (check the ph and akalinity) and never saw much on the Free Chlorine reading. Just wondering what it should read.

When you say 'N2 cartridge', are you referring to the Vision cartridge?

[Brulan1]

The rash is gone and my wife just went back in and the rash didn't come back. The water is clear, the ph and alkalinity is also good. I was just wondering what the Free Chlorine should read. I check with test strips every day (check the ph and akalinity) and never saw much on the Free Chlorine reading. Just wondering what it should read.

When you say 'N2 cartridge', are you referring to the Vision cartridge?

They are both Ionizers so they are similar and the free chlorine should read low accept after you add it.

[sharkman009]

The rash is gone and my wife just went back in and the rash didn't come back. The water is clear, the ph and alkalinity is also good. I was just wondering what the Free Chlorine should read. I check with test strips every day (check the ph and akalinity) and never saw much on the Free Chlorine reading. Just wondering what it should read.

When you say 'N2 cartridge', are you referring to the Vision cartridge?

In a spa your chlorine level should be between 1 and 3ppm. On the back of your test strips there should be a recommended level indicator right under the chlorine test.

Since you have the ionizer cartridge you will probably not use as much chlorine but you need to make sure that you add your chlorine and then wait for 8 hours before you take a test. I always add a teaspoon at the end of the night for each person that was in the spa (remember the more people in the spa the more bacteria you've introduced into the water) then I go out the next morning and test before I go to work. That way if I didnt add quite enough chlorine from the night before I can suplement it and I know its ready that night when I get home.

The reason you want to wait for 8 hours before you test is that it takes a while for the chlorine to kill the bacteria in the spa and if you test right after you add the chlorine you are going to get a false reading. Good Luck

[Brulan1]

In a spa your chlorine level should be between 1 and 3ppm. On the back of your test strips there should be a recommended level indicator right under the chlorine test.

Since you have the ionizer cartridge you will probably not use as much chlorine but you need to make sure that you add your chlorine and then wait for 8 hours before you take a test. I always add a teaspoon at the end of the night for each person that was in the spa (remember the more people in the spa the more bacteria you've introduced into the water) then I go out the next morning and test before I go to work. That way if I didnt add quite enough chlorine from the night before I can suplement it and I know its ready that night when I get home.

The reason you want to wait for 8 hours before you test is that it takes a while for the chlorine to kill the bacteria in the spa and if you test right after you add the chlorine you are going to get a false reading. Good Luck

That is true, you should wait till the chlorine is utilzed

[hoopy]

Quick question about adding the chlorine: When I do add it, do I have to turn the pumps on, for say 30 mins., to mix the chlorine into the water? Or can I just add the chlorine in, put the cover on and leave it? Also can the chlorine be added with other chemicals, like say Renew (shock)? Thanks.

[Guzz]

Quick question about adding the chlorine: When I do add it, do I have to turn the pumps on, for say 30 mins., to mix the chlorine into the water? Or can I just add the chlorine in, put the cover on and leave it? Also can the chlorine be added with other chemicals, like say Renew (shock)? Thanks.

You want to have the jets running when adding any chemicals. Just long enough to distribute them into your system.

[spatech (the unreal one)]

You want to have the jets running when adding any chemicals. Just long enough to distribute them into your system.

If the water is hot I would think 10 minutes would be more than enough time to run the pumps and fully distribute the chlorine.

[Brulan1]

If the water is hot I would think 10 minutes would be more than enough time to run the pumps and fully distribute the chlorine.

Either way it will disapate I would think whether you ran the jets or not

[Guzz]

Either way it will disapate I would think whether you ran the jets or not

If you just dump chlorine in the spa with no jet action the chemical will sit on the bottom for a while.

[Brulan1]

If you just dump chlorine in the spa with no jet action the chemical will sit on the bottom for a while.

If you plan on using the spa than running the pumps before going in could def. be a benefit

[Guzz]

If you plan on using the spa than running the pumps before going in could def. be a benefit

i'm just saying that you probably do not want granular chlorine sitting on the floor of your tub

[spatech (the unreal one)]

i'm just saying that you probably do not want granular chlorine sitting on the floor of your tub

Agree 100% and I try to make it a point to start the pumps and then add it into the filter housing for just that reason and will often leave it open 5 minutes to allow for some off-gassing to help the cover long term.