Extreme cold, cal spa hot tub lost power

[My.User.Name]

We have been having a cold snap in CO. It got to -12° F yesterday BUT my Cal Spa 2100 was fine. I used it.

But today I went to use it & zero power. I checked the garage breaker, the outside hardwired hot tub power box breaker, the buss in the electronics box & the 2 fuses on the motherboard. All seem to be fine.

No matter what I tried, I can't get power to the tub & we know this will end in frozen tub pipes, cracked joints & a dead tub until spring unless I can resolve this ASAP while it's still warm.

Any thoughts on where to go?

[CanadianSpaTech]

First get a small space heater inside on med low to keep the chill out. Do you have a multi meter to test for power where the power wires connect to the board. Of you have power going to the pack test all glass fuses. Take them out of the holder to test. 

Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover.

[My.User.Name]

So I was afraid of putting any sort of direct heat in there as I didn't want to crack a solider or damage the (new) 54091 board.

Yes, I have a multimeter & can test, I just have to know what & where.

I did not pull the 2 fuses admittedly, I just looked at them with a flashlight & the 2 fuses wires look intact & no burn inside the glass. I'm not sure how to better test the buss given it's wrapped in a label but I did pull that, put it on the + of a spare battery & multimeter showed power coming thru so I assumed that was fine?

Btw, you're that awesome guy that helped me swap the motherboard back in May 👍👊

[CanadianSpaTech]

13 hours ago, My.User.Name said:

I was afraid of putting any sort of direct heat in there as I didn't want to crack a solider or damage

Small space heater inside the cabinet on med low will keep it from freezing and cracking plumbing.

 

Please do not work beyond your capabilities. If you are unsure at anytime please call a professional.

 

In the left hand side of where the power wires connect to the board do you get 120V white to red, 120V white to black? do you get 240V red to black?. If you do then same test on the other side of that same connection on the right side to test for power coming out of that block. Power in left power out right side to make sure the incoming wires are connected and making proper contact. Follow the red and black at the Philips screws where the wires connect to the "fingers" of the circuit board at top of photo Test the red and black wire coming from the main power block. Do you get 240v? Then test the second (yellow) set of screws. Basically follow the power. If you get this far you have confirmed power to the board.

Try and disconnect (power off) the topside phone jack from the board and see if it will run automated without the topside connected.

At this point you might want to pull the board and look on the back for darkened or burnt areas on the back.

Post results  

[My.User.Name]

Got it. This is all doable. I'll report back.

If it's anything like what I dealt with in May, a board swap, I wonder if draining it asap while I can is the best idea as I also leave this weekend for a vacation & can't babysit this issue. Thoughts?

Ps - It's continued low temps, I'll probably pass on the space heater as I feel like that introduces a level of other potential risk itself by it being out endlessly running in - temps. 

[CanadianSpaTech]

1 hour ago, My.User.Name said:

I wonder if draining it asap while I can is the best idea

Unless you are going to blow out all the lines and Winterize the spa not a good idea. A full tub will take longer to freeze. Up to you but I use small space heaters all the time while waiting for parts. They are tip proof and thermostatically controlled. Usually in some tight places. They will only run when needed once it is warm in there. Again only need a med low to low setting. Enough to keep the chill out. Use on 750V setting. Hopefully you can get it figured out. 

 

[cranbiz]

@CanadianSpaTech I believe you mean 750W setting, not 750V.

 

Not sure I want to see the aftermath of setting the heater to 750V. 🔥🔥🔥🚒

[My.User.Name]

Well guys, the expected happened.

A joint blew & the spa drained.

With the negative temps & my busy schedule getting ready to leave the country, I didn't react quick enough.

I've put a lot of $$ & time & effort into keeping this damn thing running since I inherited it with a home purchase (1x motherboard, fuses, joints, pressure switch, jets, piping, etc) and I suspect this "new" board from May somehow failed (not even 8 months in) as all other power checked out up to the board.

It might be time to let this spa go as it seems to be 1 thing after another every 3-5 months. Yes, yet another new board will be cheaper than a new spa & hauling this one away, but I've put more into this spa than anything in the house since I bought it 3 years ago. Ugh!

[CanadianSpaTech]

Free hot tubs are never free

[skyhenge]

I'd suggest checking the GFCI outlet, if you haven't already. Sometimes those sneaky things trip without warning.