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My.User.Name

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  1. My.User.Name
    Well guys, the expected happened. A joint blew & the spa drained. With the negative temps & my busy schedule getting ready to leave the country, I didn't react quick enough. I've put a lot of $$ & time & effort into keeping this damn thing running since I inherited it with a home purchase (1x motherboard, fuses, joints, pressure switch, jets, piping, etc) and I suspect this "new" board from May somehow failed (not even 8 months in) as all other power checked out up to the board. It might be time to let this spa go as it seems to be 1 thing after another every 3-5 months. Yes, yet another new board will be cheaper than a new spa & hauling this one away, but I've put more into this spa than anything in the house since I bought it 3 years ago. Ugh!
  2. My.User.Name
    Got it. This is all doable. I'll report back. If it's anything like what I dealt with in May, a board swap, I wonder if draining it asap while I can is the best idea as I also leave this weekend for a vacation & can't babysit this issue. Thoughts? Ps - It's continued low temps, I'll probably pass on the space heater as I feel like that introduces a level of other potential risk itself by it being out endlessly running in - temps.
  3. My.User.Name
    So I was afraid of putting any sort of direct heat in there as I didn't want to crack a solider or damage the (new) 54091 board. Yes, I have a multimeter & can test, I just have to know what & where. I did not pull the 2 fuses admittedly, I just looked at them with a flashlight & the 2 fuses wires look intact & no burn inside the glass. I'm not sure how to better test the buss given it's wrapped in a label but I did pull that, put it on the + of a spare battery & multimeter showed power coming thru so I assumed that was fine? Btw, you're that awesome guy that helped me swap the motherboard back in May 👍👊
  4. My.User.Name
    We have been having a cold snap in CO. It got to -12° F yesterday BUT my Cal Spa 2100 was fine. I used it. But today I went to use it & zero power. I checked the garage breaker, the outside hardwired hot tub power box breaker, the buss in the electronics box & the 2 fuses on the motherboard. All seem to be fine. No matter what I tried, I can't get power to the tub & we know this will end in frozen tub pipes, cracked joints & a dead tub until spring unless I can resolve this ASAP while it's still warm. Any thoughts on where to go?
  5. My.User.Name
    They told me today that theirs ship from the factory at 2psi (this came set at 1psi) & that they even put a type of thread lock on the plastic threads to keep it at 2psi.
  6. My.User.Name
    UPDATE: the issue has been solved! It turns out, the new pressure switch (which is supposed to come properly set from the factory was not properly set). The PS was set at 1, but factory set is actually 2. So, dialing the switch clockwise (in) to 2 psi up from 1 psi cleared the FL!!
  7. My.User.Name
    Factory new. But I need to change my story a bit as I was wrong about my "theory"... If I cycle the power, the temp pops up and a few seconds after FL comes on. BUT If I cycle the power, & the temp pops up and I hit the jets button immediately, it runs for the 2 hours and then FL. So it's more like if h2o isn't flowing immediately, FL. After the 2 hrs & no more flowing H20, FL. But if the pumps activated (hitting jets button) it will run proper and only FL at the end of the 2hr cycle.
  8. My.User.Name
    I tried what you suggested (disconnect & jump) and it still does the same process 😭 😞
  9. My.User.Name
    It appears I have 2 of those (under blue covers?) 1 before & 1 after the the heater. Do that to both or just the one before or one after?
  10. My.User.Name
    Is "disconnecting" the same as "jumping"? If not, I'm not sure how to "jump" it.
  11. My.User.Name
    Well cleaning it didn't work and taking it out entirely didn't work. It lasted a little longer in time (it seemed like) after I took it out, but in the end, the "FL" error eventually comes on. I have a new one on the way anyway as it is old & they're cheap. It seems odd as the "FL" error & shut down seems to line up with the end of the 2hr default warm & H20 cycling timer that triggers on a restart (which is the only way I can get past the error code). But I can't say that conclusively. Normally it should run the default 2hrs (or reach its temp), shut off, & run again as needed over & over. I'm not sure what to check or try next. If it runs & cycles & heats to my temp, could there be air in the system or something? I'm not sure what would allow for the system to act as though it's running properly & thru it's cycles, but yet give an "FL" error which implies h2o isn't flowing? But yet, it is. I'm clearly missing something.
  12. My.User.Name
    That's what I did this morning when I say "FL" for the 2nd time (other was last night). I pulled it & cleaned it (with the special filter cleaner spray & a hose as I hadn't done it in a while & it was brownish icky). I'll report back if that works/doesn't.
  13. My.User.Name
    Ok, I'm up & running & at 104° for 24hrs now 👏 But 2x now I've seen the jacuzzi shut down with the "FL" pressure switch error. I just power cycle & everything clears & away I go. Any ideas why this is happening with a brand new not adjusted or messed with factory pressure switch?
  14. My.User.Name
    You seem to have nailed it 👍 I replaced the board + the pressure switch & I'm now watching it heat up 😀 I'd love to know if you have an opinion as to how or why that relay burnt out? **tech data for others: my unit takes a Circuit board 52199 which is no longer made & hard to find. The replacement is 52299 which is readily available but it's ±$400. A little research revealed that board 54091 would work & I found that for about $225 & that's what is running now. This board is nice as all of the relays are covered & not exposed.
  15. My.User.Name
    Ok, I'm on it I'll report back.
  16. My.User.Name
    Honestly, that board has a 2013 hand written date on it from the original owner (this jacuzzi came with the house I bought). So it looks like they did a switch 10 years ago (he dated all kinds of stuff around the house which is actually super helpful). Also, I actually found that my board - Balboa 52299 - has a replacement of Balboa 54091. I can find the 54091 cheaper than the exact board, likely due to availability. SO... It might just make more sense to swap the entire board + also do the pressure switch since I have no way to factory rezero it. I'm assuming on the pressure switch I'll have to shut the upstream valve gate 1st? Thanks 👍
  17. My.User.Name
    Yikes. How sure of this are you? As that board is near $400. And, I don't see a way to replace the relays (let alone even find them 1 by 1) as they are soldered to the board. And are you saying, now that I messed with the pressure switch I need to replace it?
  18. My.User.Name
    Good eye!! And yes, I noticed the soot also but I don't know if it's been there or if it's new (it won't wipe off with a finger). It's obviously rising up from below the 2nd "B" bolt & that could have only come from that "heater relay" I suppose.
  19. My.User.Name
    Ok... I tested the continuity on the pressure switch (black probe on black wire tab, red on red) while it's running & it shows 000 which I believe to mean it's fine (has continuity)? The pressure switch, if I push in the button on the pipe side of the switch, I hear a click on the board. As it is, the button on the pipe side is all the way out & the button on the wire side is touching it. I admit I originally turned this in more, & then back out but I'm not 100% sure im at the original starting point. I probed the 2 heater connection points on the board while the system is running and I get 120v. I do have a heater light, it comes on solid. Never blinks. I do have a suction safety sensor & it does have a blue cap.
  20. My.User.Name
    10-4. I wasn't sure as I'd never touched it when it worked. All pumps seem to be running fine. Everything cycles. Jets, H20 flow, etc. Just no heat. update: It DOES come on but it doesn't actually heat. It does not blink. Testing the 2 bolts on the board that connect to the 2 wires to the heater I get 120v.
  21. My.User.Name
    Ok I'll try this & report back. I do have a blue plastic cap over a sensor on the out (right) side of the heater (see photo). I do not have a "heat indicator light" on my model on the panel. Ps - should the heater box be hot/warm when doing it's job?
  22. My.User.Name
    So this winter I came home to a blown out fitting on the pipe to/thru the heater (left side coming into heater box). I believe it was due to an "OH" error (which I've seen before & shuts the jacuzzi down) which shut the heater down, water froze, black clamp fitting busted, water drained out. So yesterday I replaced the fitting, filled it & it fired up as normal, circulated & all seemed fine. BUT, the water never heated up. I checked all wires & fittings. So does this seems like a heater issue? I can easily find the heater & replace myself, but I'm not 100% sure that's the most likely issue. Thoughts? Thanks!
  23. My.User.Name
    Is this what people do here? Try to chide & babysit others choices? How many times do we need to do this? I'm a responsible adult. I know what the hell I'm doing. If I can be trusted with 10,000 other important things in my life, I can be trusted with choosing my own freaking jacuzzi heat. so let's stop with this total nanny nonsense.
  24. My.User.Name
    I'm picking up what you're putting down. But it may be above my pay grade.
  25. My.User.Name
    Sorry, but other companies DO have mods & hacks to circumvent the 104. Some posted in these very forums. Just like hacks & mods to speed up cars. I dont drink. And I don't need hand holding or "what if" stories. PS - my shower is hotter than 104. Shocking I know, but true.
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