SPA pump replacement matching HP or AMPs

[MrX]

Hello,

 

I have 2015 Bullfrog A7L

looking to replace my pumps.

Currently I have 

2”x2” Gecko XP2, 56 Frame - labeled 2.5 HP, 2 speed

11.4/3.6 AMP and 12/4.4 AMP

what is weird, that I keep finding similar pumps AMP wise, but they all say that they are 4HP

 

is it okay to replace the 11.4/3.6 AMP with second 12/4.4 AMP that says 4HP instead of 2.5 ?

 

 

 

 

 

 

[CanadianSpaTech]

Match the high speed amp draw. Don't want to go to much bigger as it may exceed the main breaker amps and what the spa was designed for.

[MrX]

Thank you, is 1AMP bigger ok ?

[CanadianSpaTech]

Should be fine

[Grant D]

I'm in a similar situation

I have a Djayea  0153 pump that is rated 115v 10.4/3.6 Amps (pics attached)looking to replace my pump with a pump that is 115v 13.0A/3.7A

is this too big a jump in the hi speed amperage?  Or would it still be ok?

Here is a link to the new pump

https://www.hottuboutpost.com/sta-rite-dura-jet-pump-239113-s-1-5hp-115v-2-speed-2-inch/

[CanadianSpaTech]

@Grant D Please start your own thread in the future. It could be. What size breaker do you have it connected to? 15A? With the pump drawing 13A you are right up against the breaker max. If you have ozone and a light on add those amp draws to the calculation of total amp draw. What is wrong with the original pump/motor? Why not rebuild it?

[Grant D]

8 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said:

@Grant D Please start your own thread in the future. It could be. What size breaker do you have it connected to? 15A? With the pump drawing 13A you are right up against the breaker max. If you have ozone and a light on add those amp draws to the calculation of total amp draw. What is wrong with the original pump/motor? Why not rebuild it?

Good idea!  Over the last couple of years i have had trouble with it failing to start automatically at low speed.  I can start it at high speed and then turn it down.  I've replaced the switch and the capacitor a couple of times, which works short term but the issue keeps coming back. 

What do i need to rebuild it?  Do you sell a rebuild kit?

 

[CanadianSpaTech]

On 11/22/2023 at 3:54 PM, Grant D said:

trouble with it failing to start automatically at low speed.  I can start it at high speed and then turn it down.  I've replaced the switch and the capacitor a couple of times

Usually a start cap going/gone south but sounds like you have addressed that before. Does the shaft spin freely? On the motor end there is not really a lot you can do for a DIY rebuild. On the wet end...end if it feels tight to spin the shaft what can happen is the shaft of the motor where the impeller screws onto the shaft the shaft just behind the thread for the impeller can/will expand outward from centrifugal force. The shaft then expands outward and can/will cause the impeller shaft to also expand outward usually splitting the impeller shaft. The impeller shaft then gets locked into the pump/shaft seal. This in turn can/will start to leak. If it leaks water will run down the shaft into the face of the motor where the front bearing sits. If left unchecked for long enough the front bearing can/will rust and begin to make noise or lock up entirely. When I do a rebuild I replace the impeller (they always break) and a new shaft seal. When apart I check the front bearing and replace if needed. Back bearings are good 95% of the time. The shaft where the impeller screws on usually needs to be ground down so the new impeller screws on freely and is not tight. In short...lol a tight shaft might make starting low speed difficult for the motor.

[Grant D]

Interesting, and a learning experience, the start cap/centrifugal switch was off kilter enough to not close the circuit.  Once i realized that, and re set the mount and aligned it properly, everything is back to normal.  (after testing every circuit, and switch etc. for continuity, replacing a suspect wire etc....)  Thanks for your response, much appreciated.  GD