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Balboa BP20 Spa overheating


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We have a 2016 spa that keep getting an over heat state. The spa has a 220v circulation pump that I thought was the problem but after replacing it we still have the problem. Even with the heater on rest mode and the heater set to low, temp set at 99F it is still overheating (110-115F). Filter is clean and new, all valves are open. Circulation pump is set to run 24hrs as by design. Filtration mode on controller only set for 15min. Circulation pump seems to have good flow out of the 3 bottom outlets and the water fall. Ozone is new and working. Jet pumps are not running except for their 1 min purge every 6hrs. not hot outside. heater and temp sensors all check out. What else am I missing or what else could I check? Can a bad circuit board make the 220V 1/15hp circulation pump run hot and put heat into the water? I have tried to check temperatures of piping with a thermometer gun before and after pump but not getting great readings as its on the outside of the pipe. 

2016 Wind River Spa

Laing Thermotech circ pump E14

Balboa WRBP20B, part number 5611 with Spa Touch controller

 

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Temperature sensors are most likely cause if the circulation pump is functioning. Do you have a multimeter and if so, do you know how to use it?

Temperature sensors should read in the 10K-20K range. If you have a low and a high sensor, they should read close to the same. Test the sensor/sensors.

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thanks! I tested them and they check out ok based on a chart I found that showed temp vs. ohm reading, I do however have a pair on order as they are original and its a cheap fix. Still find it odd that the heater is kicking and overheating the spa on even though I have it on rest mode, it should only kick on when the filter mode is set, which is only 15min at 9pm, and the overheating is happening other times of the day.

 

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Sticky/stuck/failing heater relay? Test for voltage to heater element when spa is NOT calling for heat and see if you get 240V. I normally disconnect the heater from the circuit board and test for power off the circuit board without the heater connected. See if you are getting power off the board when you are not suppose to. Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover.

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16 hours ago, postman454 said:

temp set at 99F it is still overheating (110-115F)

Is the actual water temp 110+?

Depending on the system you have I might at some point remove the board and have a look on the back for darkened or burnt areas around the relays

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Sticky/stuck/failing heater relay? Had that thought, any way to test it?

Test for voltage to heater element when spa is NOT calling for heat and see if you get 240V. no voltage on heater element when not calling for heat. Correct voltage when calling for heat

Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover. see attached. 

Is the actual water temp 110+? not sure, but it was over 104 by touch, just tested and spa at 95 F and thermometer said the same

Depending on the system you have I might at some point remove the board and have a look on the back for darkened or burnt areas around the relays thanks for all you help! I also checking the ohm in the heater and the sensors again and no issue, they match what they should, also no leakage between heater connection and ground. 220v is good coming into spa and to the heater. last night I had it on rest and it never turned the heater on so it didn't overheat, cir pump ran all night with no problem, temp dropped a bit over night. tuned the heater up to 97 and it turned off like it should when it hit set temperature.

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10 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said:

Sticky/stuck/failing heater relay? Test for voltage to heater element when spa is NOT calling for heat and see if you get 240V. I normally disconnect the heater from the circuit board and test for power off the circuit board without the heater connected. See if you are getting power off the board when you are not suppose to. Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover.

Thanks for taking the time to help!

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3 hours ago, postman454 said:

Had that thought, any way to test it?

 

3 hours ago, postman454 said:

no voltage on heater element when not calling for heat. Correct voltage when calling for heat

Sounds like a good test

 

3 hours ago, postman454 said:

last night I had it on rest and it never turned the heater on so it didn't overheat, cir pump ran all night with no problem, temp dropped a bit over night. tuned the heater up to 97 and it turned off like it should when it hit set temperature.

So working as it should. Looking at your initial photos when was the last time you washed the filters. I know you said clean and new but it sounds like the water flow was restricted and a dirty filter is usual cause. Second would be a starting/stopping circ pump and if you have a small magnetic drive Laing circ pump it is not uncommon. Next time it happens remove the filter and reset power also check actual water temp to see if it matches topside display.

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17 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said:

 

Sounds like a good test

 

So working as it should. Looking at your initial photos when was the last time you washed the filters. I know you said clean and new but it sounds like the water flow was restricted and a dirty filter is usual cause. Second would be a starting/stopping circ pump and if you have a small magnetic drive Laing circ pump it is not uncommon. Next time it happens remove the filter and reset power also check actual water temp to see if it matches topside display.

Thanks! I clean the filter weekly(spray clean) and deep clean monthly. I will do that when it happens again. so far so good now. 

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