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H2X Leaking


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Thank you for your Reply.  A MasterSpa H2X is 8'x12', 1300 gallon.  I will try to see what I can behind the panels.  Unfortunately 2 sides are tight against walls, and everything behind the panels is sprayed with foam.  But the leak MAY be obvious if I look for it on the 2 available sides.
Anyone have maintenance folk deal with these issues?

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  • 4 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Other projects and worry what I might find kept me from this problem.  After almost a year out of service I removed the plastic end at the head of the tub and easily found the leak.  Water dripping from the Heater Split Nut due to a failed gasket.  After a little trouble getting the screws out* I found the part at MasterSpaParts.  On query Jenni told me that a replacement split nut (about $11) did not come with the gasket.  It is separate for $2.90.  It has been ordered and I expect to be back in tub this week.  
Picture shows the split nut and where it attaches to the Heater.  I wish I had done this 16 months ago.

Note: The white rectangular box at the left is a valve to close the water return line to the heater.  It only partially worked, slowing down the flow after I removed the split nut but not stopping it.  Perhaps a gasket there was also shot.  So a good thing that mostly all of the water had leaked out already.

* The screws in the split nut were facing down rather than up, requiring offset Phillips drivers to remove them.  I will replace them facing down, as they are on the split nut at the other end of the Heater.  [OOPS! This idea shows my then confusion about how the split nut works.  See fix below.]



Edited by arnspa
1) add detail. 2) Make Correction.
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  • 2 weeks later...

OOPS!  I didnt know how the Split Nut pictured above works.  I thought it was just a split clamp and after spending lots of time trying to align the the flange on the heater and the pipe I finally realized the pipe is threaded and the split nut is used to draw them together.  Eureka!  Just put the new gasket on end of pipe, then put nut on with the screws not yet fully tight and start turning nut to pull the pipe and heater together.  Once they are lined up close you can tighten the screws in the split nut and turn it to make it all tight.

I never needed to spend all that effort using a collection of offset Phillips to get it off.  I just needed to unscrew it so the screws would be accessible at the top.  A strap wrench would help for this.  We live, we learn.

I added some 1 ½ inch foam insulation (foil on inside) to boost the ½ inch in the tub surround.  I had many loose plastic pieces from the surround and used Gorilla building adhesive, weighted down overnight.  BUT the adhesive stuck to the plastic fine but not well to back on the surround.  With more screws got it all back together.
(Third pic shows mid process of gluing back the plastic pieces to the surround.  Anyone know a better adhesive than the Gorilla tube stuff I used?)





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  • 2 months later...

Last week I noticed we had water leaking again.  Taking off the tub surround and the extra insulation I put in I discovered the other side of the heater was leaking.  I ordered another gasket before taking it apart as I expected to lose some water when I took off the split clamp. I closed the three gate valves to the heater and pumps and shut off the power.
The gasket arrived today.  When I took off the clamp, sure enough, water was leaking out, not great force but enough to prompt me to work quickly to replace the old gasket with the new and to put the split nut back on and to tighten it.
Perfecto.  I turned the power on and briefly ran the pumps; no leaks.  All together about three inches of water was lost from the time it started leaking to finishing the fix.

The gaskets cost $2.90.  Sure wish I had bought two and replaced them both.  Now, YOU will know.




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