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Everything posted by arnspa

  1. Repainted Hunter Green, gloss with new safety strips for the steps. Much better than redoing the varnish every year,
  2. DON'T REPLACE JUST ONE OF THE GASKETS Last week I noticed we had water leaking again. Taking off the tub surround and the extra insulation I put in I discovered the other side of the heater was leaking. I ordered another gasket before taking it apart as I expected to lose some water when I took off the split clamp. I closed the three gate valves to the heater and pumps and shut off the power. The gasket arrived today. When I took off the clamp, sure enough, water was leaking out, not great force but enough to prompt me to work quickly to replace the old gasket with the new and to put the split nut back on and to tighten it. Perfecto. I turned the power on and briefly ran the pumps; no leaks. All together about three inches of water was lost from the time it started leaking to finishing the fix. The gaskets cost $2.90. Sure wish I had bought two and replaced them both. Now, YOU will know.
  3. Ingenious! When we got our H2X 12 years ago, we also got rooftop solar that has kept the bills low.
  4. OOPS! I didnt know how the Split Nut pictured above works. I thought it was just a split clamp and after spending lots of time trying to align the the flange on the heater and the pipe I finally realized the pipe is threaded and the split nut is used to draw them together. Eureka! Just put the new gasket on end of pipe, then put nut on with the screws not yet fully tight and start turning nut to pull the pipe and heater together. Once they are lined up close you can tighten the screws in the split nut and turn it to make it all tight. I never needed to spend all that effort using a collection of offset Phillips to get it off. I just needed to unscrew it so the screws would be accessible at the top. A strap wrench would help for this. We live, we learn. I added some 1 ½ inch foam insulation (foil on inside) to boost the ½ inch in the tub surround. I had many loose plastic pieces from the surround and used Gorilla building adhesive, weighted down overnight. BUT the adhesive stuck to the plastic fine but not well to back on the surround. With more screws got it all back together. (Third pic shows mid process of gluing back the plastic pieces to the surround. Anyone know a better adhesive than the Gorilla tube stuff I used?)
  5. Spa Access: Twelve years ago I built steps to access the side of our H2X. They are easily skidded away if access to panels is needed, plus seem perfect for enter at side away from the sloping seats at end. After years of new varnish every summer I plan to paint it green this year.
  6. Our H2X is at least 80 feet from our main electric service box. I think this too far to rely on the copper ground rod at the main service, and so I drove a copper ground at the service switch close to the tub. I wish I had tied it into the rebar in the concrete pad, but didn't think of that until after delivery.
  7. Other projects and worry what I might find kept me from this problem. After almost a year out of service I removed the plastic end at the head of the tub and easily found the leak. Water dripping from the Heater Split Nut due to a failed gasket. After a little trouble getting the screws out* I found the part at MasterSpaParts. On query Jenni told me that a replacement split nut (about $11) did not come with the gasket. It is separate for $2.90. It has been ordered and I expect to be back in tub this week. Picture shows the split nut and where it attaches to the Heater. I wish I had done this 16 months ago. Note: The white rectangular box at the left is a valve to close the water return line to the heater. It only partially worked, slowing down the flow after I removed the split nut but not stopping it. Perhaps a gasket there was also shot. So a good thing that mostly all of the water had leaked out already. * The screws in the split nut were facing down rather than up, requiring offset Phillips drivers to remove them. I will replace them facing down, as they are on the split nut at the other end of the Heater. [OOPS! This idea shows my then confusion about how the split nut works. See fix below.]
  8. Thank you for your Reply. A MasterSpa H2X is 8'x12', 1300 gallon. I will try to see what I can behind the panels. Unfortunately 2 sides are tight against walls, and everything behind the panels is sprayed with foam. But the leak MAY be obvious if I look for it on the 2 available sides. Anyone have maintenance folk deal with these issues?
  9. We have a 2008 H2X SwimSpa we have much enjoyed but it is now leaking. Any suggestions to find leaks, fix, or get help?
  10. After fixing my problem with broken suction covers, I now have many jets not working in my 2008 H2X swim spa. Leaf debris, I suspect. Any tips on how to fix this?
  11. WHAT? No One can recommend a supplier for a new tub cover? MERCY!
  12. For a round 77 inch hot tub we need a new cover in Berkeley, CA. Recommendations please.
  13. I think I got just what you recommend. Cost $1,100. Our old cover, 2008, was well worn out. Another post here told of my efforts to save it 3 yrs ago. Now the vinyl was shot, plus one quarter was water laden and very heavy. The new design is much superior. Though it doesn't have a nylon mesh underside. I think that was a drawback on the original.
  14. Our daughters have recent got a large 110 hot tub and installed solar at their house in Berkeley, CA. What sort of timer do they need to take optimum advantage of the PGE time of use billing?
  15. Any recommendations for where to find a replacement cover for our MasterSpa H2X (8 x 12 ft)?
  16. Just a few months later. It still looks great. Gorilla brand is a super heavy duct tape. It comes in two widths, wide and wider. In black only I think and costs much more than the cheap stuff. Because the seams are on the edges covered by the vinyl, and very tight, I really do expect the seal to last as long as the original did. Concern for the vacuum seal may be overstated. Any vacuum was broken with the first tiny hole that came years ago. My guess is that the mechanical seal can be better than tape but largely dictated on manufacturing efficiency. Commercial mailers seal their plastic packages with heat rather than tape. Quicker, and cheaper for large production. Tyvek tape? That may be smart. Haven't used it. Glad to hear from others.
  17. Below I show Before and After photos of my DIY to replace the plastic surround of the insulation in the cover of our MasterSpa 2X Crosstrainer (12x8') . The black plastic was showing cracks long ago and I should have got to it at once, especially because the side I couldn't see, the top side, was much worse that what I could see on the bottom. I bought a roll of 10x25 ft 6mil black plastic at Lowes's ($25), and a roll of 3 " Gorilla duct tape ($14). I have more photos and will try later to post a How To here. I have lots of tips to make this easier. As my father enjoyed saying, Don't do anything the first time. Check with me before you begin this, The replacement costs for the covers are $1200. I spent $40 and a weekend. This will probably last for for the remaining life of the cover.
  18. After 6 years the black plastic surrounding the styrofoam insulation in our Master Spa cover is disintegrating. Taking it apart I see that each piece of syrofoam is contained in a black plastic bag of sorts. Does anyong know how to get replacements for these bags? Alternately I can just put plastic sheeting around it but the bag would work better. Any help? Thanks.
  19. clyde, I would guess you've already done something about this. And I would guess that Brian above is a spammer. You may have nearby electrical motor rebuilders that can help with problems like this. It may need just new brushes or brushes and minor dressing of the armature. This may be a lot less than $900 for a new/rebuilt motor.
  20. One week and no reply? Have our pros never seen this before? I might add the water was clear (1300 gals), the pH was very low.
  21. Our visitor did not wash the filters in our Masterspa H2X for many months. When I came to change them they were coated with a sort of green gel like stuff, see photo. This later dried to dry powder. Anyone know what causes this?
  22. Brackneyc, I see that none of the replies above address your concern about electric usage. We have a large Masterspa, 1300 gals with a timer that turns things off for many hours of the day.* When it's off for 10 hrs it loses only one or two degrees and jumps back up within an hour of switching on. Almost everyone believes you should cycle your furnace to go down or a/c to go off when you're not home or in bed at night. I gather that you've not yet determined how much this tub is going to cost for electric. For us it was a big item and the timer saves us a lot.* A night timer might save you money as well. Note that because we have so much water with ozonator the hours the spa is not circulating hasn't made problems for the chems and clarity. This might be different for a smaller spa used more frequently. Also, we have ours at 100 - 101, more is too hot for me, though my wife likes the warmer. How wedded are you to 103? (nice pun, yes?) For a twice daily dip? Two degrees less will save you much on your furnace, may work in the tub as well. I would suggest a timer to control this rather than worrying about 'turning it down' nightly. *Note: With 30 solar panels for electric we are on a time of use metering system with Pacific Gas & Electric. In Summer we sell them juice for 30 cents a kwh during the day, then buy it back at night for 10 cents. So we cut off during the day, but you might cut off at night if you have constant billing.
  23. zzmac, Two comments. Note that you want a level base for your spa so the water will be level in the spa. As for grounding to rebar or mesh in the pad, this is always smart. Even if people aren't standing on it this gives better protection, supplementing* the ground back at your main electric box and not requiring that a short travel that distance to effective ground. (all that rebar or mesh) *NOTE WELL, a ground at the spa is no substitute for running neutral and grounding wires back to the main box. A ground at your spa can supplement but not substitute. Also, our local codes call for 6 gauge ground wires to earth. Disclosure: I'm not an electrician.
  24. I think it is something like what you suggest. For the tub experience she likes 102 deg (I would prefer 99). But to swim this is too warm. Yet the insulation and cover is so good that even overnight and turned off, it loses only 1 or 2 degrees. Still, the other problem may be just that she works too much. As a doctor who's dealing with serious medical issues, teaching others, and trying to direct medical policy, she works from 7:30 to 6:30 most days, and 6-12 hrs many wknds. When she comes home bone tired after looking over an intern's shoulder - trying to direct surgery - the hot temp is great. But the next morning it's too hot for a swim (she's up at 5:30). When we first bought the spa (may I say that GWB cut our taxes to make that easy), it was the swimming feature she wanted. But the giant hot tub took over, determining how we would set the temp. All this suggests that WE need a talk on how we want to use the thing. I am quite happy with cooler temps. Does she value more the big burn or swimming? Instead of keeping the swim spa at 100+, and then trying to lower it when she wants to swim, why not do the opposite? Keep it at warm but swimmable temp, then raise it for occasions we want the burn. Also, this may save the electric. NOTE: With our solar system, for the house and 1300 gallon swim spa, we paid just over $100 electric for the past YEAR. (We had a big March though I don't know why.) Comments welcome.
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