turbosonoma Posted August 1, 2021 Report Share Posted August 1, 2021 So my hot tub stopped being hot the other day and upon investigating noticed that is smells like burnt circuit board. Occasionally in the past it would not be heating and an alert would pop up saying "the heater is to hot". But after powering it off and on it would be back to normal for months at a time. Im hesitant to spend nearly $1000 on a circuit board if there is something causing it to fry. Does anybody know anything about these things? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted August 1, 2021 Report Share Posted August 1, 2021 Burnt Heater relay. It can be repaired in most cases. Usually under $300 CDN. Where are you located? You will have to remove the circuit board from the housing. Post photos of the backside of the board and we can tell you if it is repairable. You will need to find a local electronics repair shop...or ship it to one of the online service repair businesses that specialize in spa circuit boards but that will take weeks if not months. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted August 1, 2021 Report Share Posted August 1, 2021 I'd get a new heater plug too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted August 1, 2021 Report Share Posted August 1, 2021 5 hours ago, RDspaguy said: I'd get a new heater plug too. I have been in debate with my electronics guy about these "quick" connectors and the possible role they play in a seemingly high fail rate of heater relays on the BP packs. When you look at the way they make the connection to the "male" tab coming off the board. The quick connect uses 2 "female" tabs that squeeze or pinch the male tab and are independent of each other and to me just doesn't "pinch" as tight as a standard spade connector which I believe causes arching at the connection. Now whether or not this is the case and or the cause of the heater relay fail is the debate, Lately I have been redoing the wires with spade connectors and removing the quick connect all together. Thoughts? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted August 1, 2021 Report Share Posted August 1, 2021 1 hour ago, CanadianSpaTech said: Thoughts? Thinking usually gets me in trouble, but I agree in an off-the-cuff sort of way. 😉 Given the amp draw I think a screw down terminal is best, and even those fail sometimes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosonoma Posted August 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2021 Finally found some time to remove it and here it is! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted August 8, 2021 Report Share Posted August 8, 2021 It is repairable... you just need to find a local electronics repair person with a bit of knowledge and skill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosonoma Posted August 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2021 that sounds like a tall order around here! Id rather mail it off to somebody that definately knows what they are doing. Do you have any suggestions? And what would cause this in the first place? If i fix/replace it is it going to do the same thing again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted August 8, 2021 Report Share Posted August 8, 2021 Faulty relay or plug. And it will happen again eventually, but hopefully not for many years. That damage looks pretty extensive, you might consider a new board or pack. Even one that doesn't use that problematic heater plug. They can be had for under $500. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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