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2011 Marquis Reward Spa wiring question (120v to 240v conversion)


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Hello, I bought a 2011 Marquis Reward spa 2nd hand and have a question about the electrical wiring.  It is definitely heating, but it has taken 2 days to get to 83 degrees.  I believe the previous owner was running on 120v.  I have 240 ran but also noticed on the wiring diagram that it says to completely disconnect jumper from J35 and J64 and discard.  I have a jumper wire from J35 to W1, but don't see any reference to that on the diagram.  Should I discard that?  I have already set jumper 2 on the A block to "Up" position as instructed on the Balboa diagram.  Thank you for any help you can provide!

Please see attached diagram 

marquisrewarddiagram.jpg

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No, that is the common for the pump.

If it took 2 days to reach 83* it is not heating, you are picking up residual heat from the pump. Are there any errors on the display?

Do you have a voltmeter?

Post pics of the circuit board and equipment area. 

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Thank you so much for the response!  First I'm including the diagrams that the manufacturer included when I asked for their help.  This was their response:

Quote

Thank you for the email, the jumper wire from J35 to W1 should remain for a 240V setup.  I would check the switch bank A to see what positions are up, should only be #4 in the up position and rest down.

This should allow the spa to heat with high speed enabled, when the heat light comes on test for voltage at the heater- should show 240V and around 18 amps for a 4KW heater.

I haven't had the chance to use a volt meter on it, but will try to do so tomorrow.  I did adjust the jumpers to where only #4 was in the up position.  That's pretty much the only change that I made.  

I'm also including pictures of my current setup in case it helps.  Currently It's still sitting at around 83 degrees.

 

Thank you,

Scott

2 pumps.jpg

boards.jpg

dip switches 2.jpg

dip switches.png

Temp.jpg

wiring diagram.png

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What it boils down to is the heater amp draw plus the pump motor(s) amp draw must be less (preferably by 10%) than the amp rating of the breaker. If so, you can have it run with the heater. From the wire (#8awg) I suspect you are on a 50 amp breaker. So if your heater draws 18 Amps and each pump is less than 13 Amps you can run 2 high speed pumps with heater. 

BTW, the heater element is replaceable and there are 5.5kw elements that are more common and would fit that manifold. There is a good chance that it has been replaced before and could have a 5.5kw (24 amps) in spite of a 4kw sticker. 

If you overamp the circuit it will trip the breaker.

Check mode and filter cycle duration. The fact that it doesn't run the pump non-stop tells me it is either in economy or sleep mode whether the heater is working or not.

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10 hours ago, RDspaguy said:

What it boils down to is the heater amp draw plus the pump motor(s) amp draw must be less (preferably by 10%) than the amp rating of the breaker. If so, you can have it run with the heater. From the wire (#8awg) I suspect you are on a 50 amp breaker. So if your heater draws 18 Amps and each pump is less than 13 Amps you can run 2 high speed pumps with heater. 

BTW, the heater element is replaceable and there are 5.5kw elements that are more common and would fit that manifold. There is a good chance that it has been replaced before and could have a 5.5kw (24 amps) in spite of a 4kw sticker. 

If you overamp the circuit it will trip the breaker.

Check mode and filter cycle duration. The fact that it doesn't run the pump non-stop tells me it is either in economy or sleep mode whether the heater is working or not.

As you suspected, the heater is malfunctioning.  I want to order the 5.5 kw replacement but want to make sure that it will work.  I can find no documentation that says that i can replace the 58081 with the 58083.  Physical specs are the same but want to make sure before pulling the trigger.  Thank you so much for your responses!

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I'm following up on this one as the spa still seems to have an issue.  I don't know if I should start a new thread so I'll just continue this one since it relates to the same issue.

I received my OEM 5.5 kw replacement and installed it.  I had to drain about half of the hot tub to install it, so after installing it, I filled it back up.  Everything seemed to have been heating properly, but now I'm getting error codes of:

  • OHH
  • dr
  • SnS
  • HFL

The most consistent one is the OHH.  Before replacing this heating element, I didn't see any of these flow-related issues.  I even put the old thermometers back in to see if I got a defective one to no avail.

I also followed troubleshooting steps that I found online to prime the pumps by loosening the connections until water trickled out, completely removed the filters in case they were dirty, and others. 

I thought that the shut-off valves may have been broken and blocking the water flow, but it seems as though they are working properly too.

I'm still not 100% sure that the dip switches (pictured above) are on the correct settings, so that's a thought.  Currently, the only ones that are in the ON position are 2, 3, and 4.

Thank you all again for your time and suggestions!

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Hi CST, thanks for the response.  I just wanted to respond and save someone else months or years down the road from doing something stupid.

My hot tub is 100% working!  Right after I posted here, I wrote back to the manufacturer too.  Even though I had a spa tech come look at my hot tub and tell me everything looked right other than the bad heating element, I still asked the manufacturer to confirm. 

I had the pump with the heater (pump 1) plugged into the port for pump 2 on the board, and vice versa.  As soon as I corrected that, the errors went away and the tub heated up to whatever temperature I set it too. Such a relief!  Thank you to everyone who helped!

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