jdanw Posted November 3, 2012 Report Share Posted November 3, 2012 Hi everyone, first post here and looking for some help. I just bought a used spa that the previous owner had wired for 120v. It looks like going to 240v is a simple matter of using 240v supply. The cover for the electrical connections has 2 boxes printed on the outside: one says 240v-4 wires (N, L1, L2, G); second one says 120v-3 wires (N/L1,G). I have taken the cover of the controls off and see nothing that leads me to believe more needs to be done. Is it possible to be wired internally that just adding the second live wire will work? I have pictures, but am not sure if they can be psoted here. Thanks for reading and helping...JDanW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Spa Posted November 4, 2012 Report Share Posted November 4, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Spa Posted November 4, 2012 Report Share Posted November 4, 2012 There's probably one wire inside that needs to be moved (or an internal plug that needs to be switched). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdanw Posted November 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 Well, I went out and looked hard at this, but nothing jumps out at me as logical to change. Can I get a Spa Doc's opinion (or anyone else for that matter)? The top row are coming in from the connection to power. You can see where the red and black go to the left block. The black goes straight to the heater (left screw terminal) and the red goes to the right block, which as you can see goes straight to the heater... Anyone know where I can get a manual for this spa? Sequoia sl-650. Sticker on top of controller says "MODEL NO. S30-ULBOF". Read somewhere it was made by Cal Spas, but Google is returning nothing as far as a manual. Thanks...JDanW aaagghh I can't get a pciture to post...can someone tell me how? I see no place to upload and pasting here doesn't work... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdanw Posted November 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted November 6, 2012 Report Share Posted November 6, 2012 No- you can't just "add a second live wire." You need to ensure a few things- one being- you can't use the existing cord if you go 240v because it can't handle the higher amp draw. You'll need larger wire. You'll also need to remove a jumper that currently jumps the neutral to the heater to complete a 120v circuit. Run new wire (8 guage at least), add a GFCI breaker as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdanw Posted November 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2012 Well, at least 1/2 of your post addressed my concern. I thought from the looks of the switches, that it might "know" (i.e. be engineered to handle 240v without reqiring such as a jumper or switch, etc.) if 240v was supplied. Anyway, as to the other 1/2 of your response, I have run 6/3 wire and hooked it all up with a spa panel w/50 amp gfci, just like I should... Anyone have any other suggestions as to where to find a manual or ideas on the jumper, etc. from the pics? It looks like the spa is "jumpered/switched" for 240v already. It also looks like a contact has been burned. this spa is turning into a money pit without us even having hooked it up. Seller lied about numerous things...anyway, my cross to bear there...DW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted November 13, 2012 Report Share Posted November 13, 2012 If it's truly a "convertable" pack- when wired for 120v operation, the heater will not energize while the jet pump high speed running. On 240v 50 Amp, the heater can energize while the pump is running on high, and possibly a third option- the heater should not energize if 30Amp 240v is an option. No spa is capable of "auto-configuring" per the source voltage, wire size, and breaker size, so it's up to you. I don't see a circuitboard in the pic- so in your case, these options aretypically configured via a toggle switch (30/50 amp operation), a jumper wire, and/or or a couple of plug options where one molex connector has the option of plugging into two places. If you don't see any of the options, and the neutral is separate (completely through the circuit when energized) from the "red" hot line- it's possible this pack is 4 wire 240v only, and you're already set. Try disconnecting the red 240 line from the main interlock relay- and fire it up. See if the heater relay stays closed when high speed is energized. With the heater energized, ensure the heater is non-functional, only getting a single 120v leg, with no neutral to complete the circuit (you'll get 120v on each heater leg, but 0 volts across both heater poles). With no power- check for continuity between "Red" hot line and Neutral. As long as you're "OL", hook the red line back up to the interlock relay, and enjoy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdanw Posted January 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 Let this go too long, but to "close" the issue in case it can help anyone else: Thanks PS for the troubleshooting help. I had already tried just hooking up my 240 to the control pack, as I just didn't see anything in there that looked like it was convertable. I was right, it wasn't. The idiot liar I bought the tub from (she hid a leak and the spas age) didn't know that it was wired with 240v. Granted her friend who did the wiring did it with the wrong wire/cable threw me off, because I was looking for 4 wires, not 3, so what I unhooked at her houre looked to be 120v and that's what she said it was...wrong, 240v with no neutral or ground...honestly I can't remember, because I wasn't paying that much attention, but I know it was 3 wires and no red... thanks again PS... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
north_of_boston Posted February 18, 2013 Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 WOW - a Sequoia Spa. I had one - for 11 years. It was a 220v model. It served us well but it sprang leaks. It was wired up by a professional - no problems there. Never a problem with the pumps, mechanics, etc. but the leaks - and foam - were the killers. One warning -- when you do have to have it hauled off -- or chopped up -- and that day will come - it's going to take the crew double the time. It was built that durably. Even the guy who services my Arctic was amazed at the shell and the jets on it. In fact - if I still had it, the shell would still be under a 15-year warranty (but if I'm correct, Sequoia is gone).... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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