rlott Posted June 12, 2012 Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 I recently replaced my sensor (the old white epoxy type) with a new black epoxy type due to a constant "no flow" indication. Now I'm getting a constant "flow" indication even when the pump is off. The salinity and temp readings are correct, as are all the tests for the front board. Does anyone know if the unit needs to be re-calibrated, or something adjusted on the front board when you install a new sensor, or is is supposed to be plug-n-play? I've tried letting the unit re-calibrate itself during start-up with the pump on and the pump off several times with no luck. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 One of the ways to insure that the unit doesn't keep producing Cl when the pump turns off is to wire it to the filter pump. This is the recommended way to power the unit. If you are getting a display when the pump is off, you should consider having it rewired. Just to be sure, you should observe the unit say, 10 min after the pump shuts off, and verify if it is off or not. There is no calibration for the flow switch/sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlott Posted June 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 It is wired together for sure - problem is I have a Jandy epump so there is power to the pump whether its actually pumping or not. My pool guy said all the new sensors should have the tri-sensor adapter installed with them. My new sensor didn't come with one so I'll get one and try that. In the meantime I'll program it to run at 600RPM and 50% production 24/7. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlott Posted June 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2012 After doing some research I decided my pump was not wired correctly for a variable speed pump by the installer. If it was a standard on/off pump, it would be OK, but a variable speed pump being controlled by a separate controller needs to have constant power to keep the controller memory and time clock active. To fix it I simply moved the pump power leads from the output of the timer to the input of the timer, so now the pump on/off time is controlled by its own controller and the chlorinator and booster are controlled by the timer. I'm thinking about adding another timer to control the booster and chlorinator separately, but right now I'm running the pump at 600rpm 24/7 except from midnight to 3am when I run the cleaner with the pump at full speed and chlorinator at 100% and that is keeping the clorine level good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlott Posted July 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 Update - 3 hours/day at 100% is not enough time for CL production. I ended up adding a timer for the booster, so the filter, booster and generator all run from midnight to 3AM, then the filter runs at 600RPM and the generator comes on for 3 hours, 2 more times throughout the day & thats the ticket. I still have the constant "flow" indication when the generator is on but I don't care. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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