rlott

If Badu can move 5Kgal/min with less than a 2.2MW generator, tell them to contact me beacuse we're all going to get really rich.

I don't know much about pool pumps, but 5,000 GPM is not right. A typical ship fire pump is rated at 1000-1,250 GPM at 150 PSI and is driven by a 150HP electric motor.

Update - 3 hours/day at 100% is not enough time for CL production. I ended up adding a timer for the booster, so the filter, booster and generator all run from midnight to 3AM, then the filter runs at 600RPM and the generator comes on for 3 hours, 2 more times throughout the day & thats the ticket. I still have the constant "flow" indication when the generator is on but I don't care.

This one works - takes forever to load though. http://www.pleasurepoolsno.com/wp-content/themes/pleasurepool_latest/pdf/AquaPure%20and%20PureLink%20Troubleshooting%20Manual.pdf

After doing some research I decided my pump was not wired correctly for a variable speed pump by the installer. If it was a standard on/off pump, it would be OK, but a variable speed pump being controlled by a separate controller needs to have constant power to keep the controller memory and time clock active. To fix it I simply moved the pump power leads from the output of the timer to the input of the timer, so now the pump on/off time is controlled by its own controller and the chlorinator and booster are controlled by the timer. I'm thinking about adding another timer to control the booster and chlorinator separately, but right now I'm running the pump at 600rpm 24/7 except from midnight to 3am when I run the cleaner with the pump at full speed and chlorinator at 100% and that is keeping the clorine level good.

It is wired together for sure - problem is I have a Jandy epump so there is power to the pump whether its actually pumping or not. My pool guy said all the new sensors should have the tri-sensor adapter installed with them. My new sensor didn't come with one so I'll get one and try that. In the meantime I'll program it to run at 600RPM and 50% production 24/7.

I get 10 psi with a clean filter and 20 with a dirty filter. 2" piping with a Jandy Stealth pump.

What Scott said is what the installer did on my pool. There is a vertical 8" PVC pipe that extends 3 feet below the deep end. The top of the pipe is actually on the pool deck with a skimmer cap on it. There is always water in the bottom because the water table where I live is very high.

I'm with Scott. These are like a boat hull turned inside out - you can't really cut and re-patch the fiberglass with any confidence from just the outside (or inside in our case). You'd need to get behind it to reinforce the patch and even then I wouldn't trust it. Lucky the water table is low where you live. If I did that my pool would float out of the ground and take the plumbing and pool deck with it.

I recently replaced my sensor (the old white epoxy type) with a new black epoxy type due to a constant "no flow" indication. Now I'm getting a constant "flow" indication even when the pump is off. The salinity and temp readings are correct, as are all the tests for the front board. Does anyone know if the unit needs to be re-calibrated, or something adjusted on the front board when you install a new sensor, or is is supposed to be plug-n-play? I've tried letting the unit re-calibrate itself during start-up with the pump on and the pump off several times with no luck. Thanks.