Jump to content

Question On Proper Use Of Rainbow Chlorinator


Don

Recommended Posts

Hey gang,

I have a Pentair Rainbow in line chlorinator for my inground pool. I had it installed last fall.

I have been having trouble keeping the chlorine level down in my pool, it continually runs high, like in the 8-10 ppm range. My pool is app 18K gallons.

The chlorinator has a dial, with adjustments between 0 and 10. I currently have it turned down to 0 to try and get the chlorine level down, but normally run it about halfway between the 0 and 1 position. It has been very hot here in the SE, like it has been everywhere, and the chlorine tabs are dissolving very quickly.

I am wondering, if I am doing it right when I put the tabs in, or if I am contributing to the problem? Let me explain, when I put new tabs in, I turn everything off of course, remove the lid, load 4-5 tabs in the chlorinator, close the lid, turn everything back on. I let it run for a minute or so, then while it is running, I remove the lid again, and let the water level in the chlorinator run up to just above the top chlorine tab. According to the manual, it shoud do this on it's own without the need for me to remove the lid, but oftentimes when I remove it after adding the tabs, it looks dry to me, so I watch till the water level is at least at the top of the stack of chlorine tabs then return the lid...

Thanks for any advice,

Don

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Rainbow 320 depends on air pressure being built up when the pump turns on. This pressure pushes the water back out when the pump turns off, significantly reducing the erosion/dissolving rate when the pump is off by keeping the tabs dryer. This helps the tabs last a bit longer and reduces the fumes when the top is removed.

When the pump is on, the Rainbow catches some return water and directs it into the tank, shooting it at either the bottom tab(s) in the default bottom feed configuration, or over the top of the stack of tabs in the optional Top Fed configuration for larger pools. Water stays in the tank until there is enough air pressure built up to overcome the pressure needed to open the check valve in the unit's check valve, just above its return port and the flow that is not captured by the intake since this also creates pressure on the check.

As for why you are seeing such high chlorine levels, I have a few questions. How are you testings? How long are you running the system? What size plumbing? What other equipment is at the pad? How far is the equipment from the pool? What are your other chem levels, especially CYA?

Scott

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey gang,

I have a Pentair Rainbow in line chlorinator for my inground pool. I had it installed last fall.

I have been having trouble keeping the chlorine level down in my pool, it continually runs high, like in the 8-10 ppm range. My pool is app 18K gallons.

The chlorinator has a dial, with adjustments between 0 and 10. I currently have it turned down to 0 to try and get the chlorine level down, but normally run it about halfway between the 0 and 1 position. It has been very hot here in the SE, like it has been everywhere, and the chlorine tabs are dissolving very quickly.

I am wondering, if I am doing it right when I put the tabs in, or if I am contributing to the problem? Let me explain, when I put new tabs in, I turn everything off of course, remove the lid, load 4-5 tabs in the chlorinator, close the lid, turn everything back on. I let it run for a minute or so, then while it is running, I remove the lid again, and let the water level in the chlorinator run up to just above the top chlorine tab. According to the manual, it shoud do this on it's own without the need for me to remove the lid, but oftentimes when I remove it after adding the tabs, it looks dry to me, so I watch till the water level is at least at the top of the stack of chlorine tabs then return the lid...

Thanks for any advice,

Don

Sounds like you are loading and using properly. To reduce the Chlorine level, try running with 2-3 tabs instead of 4-5. Or if possible, shorten the run time. You mentioned that you currently have it turned to 0. Is the Chlorine level dropping off? You could also have a bad adjustment valve. They do get scaled up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I will try to answer some of the above questions:

Normally I take a water sample down to the pool store and have them test, yesterday I tested with a kit, using the dye, and the chlorine is still high.

I am running the system 24/7.

The plumbing is 1.5"

No other equipment, just the pump, sand filter, and chlorinator.

I only turned it to 0 yesterday evening, have not checked it today yet.

The equipment I would say is about 12 ft from the shallow end of the pool, if that far.

Don't know about the other levels, the pool store has been telling me all other levels are fine when I have them test. The PH has been low a couple of times recently, and have added PH increaser to correct.

Also, as a side note, the first chlorinator I had was a cheaper off brand, and I did not have this issue with it. However it started failing after one season of use, so replaced it with this Rainbow chlorinator, and it has always seemed to get high chlorine levels.

Thanks,

Don

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't run 24/7 unless your pool size dictates it. You haven't said how big the pool is or the pump model and horse power.

Running 24/7 on a pool that is, just for arguments sake, 20,000 will definitely cause the tabs to erode in about 4 days. Turning the pump off at night will reduce your chlorine level and allow the tabs to last longer. A week is more typical.

We don't trust pool store testing in general. Getting a proper kit and testing yourself (it is easy and won't hurt!) generally provides more accurate results.

Scott

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks gang, I was always under the impression I was supposed to run it 24/7.

What about switching to low speed? My motor is a two speed motor. I am gone at times on business.

My pool is 18x36, app 18k gallons. The motor is an A.O. Smith 1hp two speed motor.

Not sure what the actual pump is.

Thanks,

Don

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have a two speed timer Run a couple of 1/2 hour cycles for skimming. If you have a pool sweep, make one of the high speed cycles an hour and set the sweep timer for that cycle less 15 minutes. Make the rest of the time to be on low and for about 9 hours total. That should give you close to 1.5 turns of the pool's volume per day.

Scott

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I strongly encourage you have an Intermatic P1353ME timer installed. You can set you on/off times for high and low speed and the total run time, automatically. It also allows you to turn the pump off as needed manually.

Scott

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Unfortunately, your content contains terms that we do not allow. Please edit your content to remove the highlighted words below.
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...


×
×
  • Create New...