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Nature 2 Hotsprings Spa


Fatlip

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I have a 2010 H S Jetsetter spa.. When I pulled out the nature 2 cartridge it has alot of white crusty material on the bottom of cartage. Cartage is 4 months old and I keep filters very clean and drain and refill every 4 months. I do the diclore/bleach method with boric acid.

So what is the white crusty material? Any ideas would be great.

fc 2

ta 70

ph 7.6

ch 160

cya 30

borate 50

Numbers pretty much stay the same and shock once a week with mps (non chlorine)

Never any scale on or in spa that I have seen.

Thanks,

Rick

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Why are you using a Nature2 with dichlor/bleach? There is no advantage and the required FC levels are the same with or without the N2. You are wasting money on the N2 carts in this case.

NTURE2 is an EPA approved sanitizer in spas with MPS and weekly or more often if needed chlorine shocking for those that want a 'low chlorine' tub.

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Why are you using a Nature2 with dichlor/bleach? There is no advantage and the required FC levels are the same with or without the N2. You are wasting money on the N2 carts in this case.

NTURE2 is an EPA approved sanitizer in spas with MPS and weekly or more often if needed chlorine shocking for those that want a 'low chlorine' tub.

I never new I shouldn't use nature 2 with dichlor/bleach, I just seemed it would be safer, once a week it let the fc go to 0 (just wasent time to add 3oz of chlorine) but never more than a day and then bump it back up to 4 to 5 and next day its 1 or 2 ppm. I do usa the Taylor test kit and have for 2 years. So what you are saying it not necessary to use nature 2 stick. I do have the freshwater system from hotsprings. Ozoneator , nature 2 stick.

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I never new I shouldn't use nature 2 with dichlor/bleach, I just seemed it would be safer, once a week it let the fc go to 0 (just wasent time to add 3oz of chlorine) but never more than a day and then bump it back up to 4 to 5 and next day its 1 or 2 ppm. I do usa the Taylor test kit and have for 2 years. So what you are saying it not necessary to use nature 2 stick. I do have the freshwater system from hotsprings. Ozoneator , nature 2 stick.

It's not that you shouldn't do it, but that it isn't necessary. Now if you need an "insurance policy" if you forget to dose with chlorine, then having silver ions in the bulk pool water are better than nothing, but as shown in this post bacteria are killed slowly (which is probably OK since you are only concerned about uncontrolled bacterial growth) and some are not affected at all. Since you are using Dichlor-then-bleach, you probably have 50 ppm Borates in the water and that will have some minor effect on bacteria (see Table 18 in this link) though more of an effect on algae (the latter being less of a problem in a covered spa). You also have an ozonator, though that won't do much for bacteria that can grow on surfaces.

It's up to you, but we haven't heard of anyone having a problem with the water going south that quickly from missing a dose with Dichlor-then-bleach, but it's really too early to tell and the other factors (Borates, ozonator) complicate the analysis.

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I never new I shouldn't use nature 2 with dichlor/bleach, I just seemed it would be safer, once a week it let the fc go to 0 (just wasent time to add 3oz of chlorine) but never more than a day and then bump it back up to 4 to 5 and next day its 1 or 2 ppm. I do usa the Taylor test kit and have for 2 years. So what you are saying it not necessary to use nature 2 stick. I do have the freshwater system from hotsprings. Ozoneator , nature 2 stick.

It's not that you shouldn't do it, but that it isn't necessary. Now if you need an "insurance policy" if you forget to dose with chlorine, then having silver ions in the bulk pool water are better than nothing, but as shown in this post bacteria are killed slowly (which is probably OK since you are only concerned about uncontrolled bacterial growth) and some are not affected at all. Since you are using Dichlor-then-bleach, you probably have 50 ppm Borates in the water and that will have some minor effect on bacteria (see Table 18 in this link) though more of an effect on algae (the latter being less of a problem in a covered spa). You also have an ozonator, though that won't do much for bacteria that can grow on surfaces.

It's up to you, but we haven't heard of anyone having a problem with the water going south that quickly from missing a dose with Dichlor-then-bleach, but it's really too early to tell and the other factors (Borates, ozonator) complicate the analysis.

Sorry guys but please read my post, my question is whats the white crusty stuff on the cartridge.

Thanks on the other info though,

Rick

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most likely a silver or zinc salt from the N2 from a localized high concentration of the metals coming from the N2.

My guess would be silver chloride (which is not very soluble in water and tends to precipitate from solution--this is the basis of how we test salt levels chemically!) formed by the silver ions from the Nature2 combining with chloride ions in the water from the use of dichlor and bleach for sanitation. Bleach adds a lot of chloride ions to the water because of the salt content but all forms of chlorine form chloride ions when they are used up by santizing or oxidizing.

Best way to prevent it is to either use the N2 with MPS or stop using the N2 and just use dichlor/bleach (I would pick the second one myself) which brings my back to my original point of why you are using the N2 with dichlor/bleach.

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There's no problem running the spa without the cartridge. I have the same spa and discussed this with my dealer. She had already described how the cartridge would look when it was due to be replaced. Maybe you could try running it without the cartridge for a while before selling your unused cartridges.

Anne

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There's no problem running the spa without the cartridge. I have the same spa and discussed this with my dealer. She had already described how the cartridge would look when it was due to be replaced. Maybe you could try running it without the cartridge for a while before selling your unused cartridges.

Anne

Thanks for the info, Ill take it out and see what happens.

Rick

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