Need Help To Id My Hot Tub So I Can Wire It Up!

[stackz]

new guy here, I bought a used hot tub from a guy who's parents owned the house/hot tub but both of them passed away. He was converting the property to a rental and due to his rental insurance requirements, had to get rid of the hot tub during the estate sale. I got it for $400 and got it back to the house. I filled it up and plugged it in using a 100' 110v extension cord (yeah I know lol) just to test it and it worked until the heater pump wanted to kick on and then the breaker would reset.

I know its because it was pulling too much juice through the extension cord.

anyway, this tub can bet set for either 110v or 220v and I want to convert it to 220v which isnt a problem except that the owners manual I have for it has several different dip switch setups depending on the model of the tub. I cant for the life of me figure out which model it is exactly.

the owners manual says Series S-3, Series G-2.5, and Series G-3.

I tried contacting the manufacturer from their website but have had no response in the past two weeks so who knows? I tried typing the model # into google and got nothing either. maybe someone here can help me?

here's the info I have

manufacturer = Leisurebayspas

Model = HAV-SSX104GCS3

Part# = S362100AB-SS

Serial# = 0087451

Volt = 120/240

Amp = 16/40

Breaker = 20/50

filter = PLBS50 (50 SF Spa Filter)

here's a pic of it when I was testing it out:

[spatech (the unreal one)]

anyway, this tub can bet set for either 110v or 220v and I want to convert it to 220v which isnt a problem except that the owners manual I have for it has several different dip switch setups depending on the model of the tub. I cant for the life of me figure out which model it is exactly.

the owners manual says Series S-3, Series G-2.5, and Series G-3.

I tried contacting the manufacturer from their website but have had no response in the past two weeks so who knows? I tried typing the model # into google and got nothing either. maybe someone here can help me?

here's the info I have

manufacturer = Leisurebayspas

Model = HAV-SSX104GCS3

Part# = S362100AB-SS

Serial# = 0087451

So if UI read this right you're saying you need to know which model it is so you know which dip switch set up. You list 3 model choices of S-3, Series G-2.5, and Series G-3. You then list a serial number that ends in S3 so If I had to guess from here I'd bet that the end of your serial number is a clue that you have the S-3 model, just a guess but add that to the fact you list a part# starting with S3... and I'd try that.

[stackz]

So if UI read this right you're saying you need to know which model it is so you know which dip switch set up. You list 3 model choices of S-3, Series G-2.5, and Series G-3. You then list a serial number that ends in S3 so If I had to guess from here I'd bet that the end of your serial number is a clue that you have the S-3 model, just a guess but add that to the fact you list a part# starting with S3... and I'd try that.

yeah but not knowing anything about spas or hot tubs I had no clue if that was correct or not. if anyone can confirm this for me I'd really appreciate it so I can finally get this thing wired up without it sparking at me or something crazy when I set the dipswitches and flip the breaker lol

anyone know what the filter model crosses to? the guy at the local pool store crossed it in his book but the actual filter he brought up didnt match for crap!

[Hillbilly Hot Tub]

Your best bet is to find out which control system it has in it (leisure Bay used to use Balboa), then go to the manufactuer of the control system to ask fot the sheets on where to place the dip switches and jumpers. If you give us the serial number to the control system, model number of it ect. we could also help you. We used to be a leisure Bay dealer. They had several names for the same model tub depending on who was selling them, so the actual control system info is the best

[stackz]

Your best bet is to find out which control system it has in it (leisure Bay used to use Balboa), then go to the manufactuer of the control system to ask fot the sheets on where to place the dip switches and jumpers. If you give us the serial number to the control system, model number of it ect. we could also help you. We used to be a leisure Bay dealer. They had several names for the same model tub depending on who was selling them, so the actual control system info is the best

is it on the printed circuit board or something? where exactly can I find this info for you?

[Hillbilly Hot Tub]

Talked with my hubby, he is our service tech, he said no jumpers to move unless you want it to heat while using the tub, otherwise it will only heat on low. There is a wire that has to be moved to convert from 110 to 220, thats it, its for the heater. all you are going to covert on this system is the heater up to 220v. the rest of the components are wired for the 110, and must stay that way(ie the pump) since thats what voltage component they are. This info is if the control system in it is a balboa value system, which it should be.

[stackz]

yes, I'd like it to heat while using the hot tub. looking at the dip switch settings for the s3 model in my owners manual. I see the ground wire you are talking about having to move and it looks like the very last dip switch is the one I need to move as it seems to designate whether the heater is running on a 20amp 110v circuit or 50amp 220v circuit.

[stackz]

ok, so it wasnt a downpour today and was actually nice and warm so I pulled the side cover off the spa and snapped some pics. I guess its pretty much confirmed that its an S3 model (says so on the control unit cover pic which I havent uploaded yet) and uses a balboa control system lol.

I can see where the secondary hot leg for the 220v goes as well as I see the dipswitches. I just wanted to show you for confirmation purposes and to see what this other wire that needs to move is.

I've also got a couple questions about the rest of the system that I'll post tomorrow but I've got to get ready for dinner tonight.

[Hillbilly Hot Tub]

you need to hook up the other hot line, and move the dipswitch if you want it to heat while pump is on high. No jumper is needed in this system.

[stackz]

you need to hook up the other hot line, and move the dipswitch if you want it to heat while pump is on high. No jumper is needed in this system.

cool, so that wire you were talking about isnt needed for this control board then? I just hook in the 220v wiring where it says and then flip that last dip switch and I'm good to go?

what would you recommend for wiring? I was going to use 6/3 outdoor wiring ($$/foot) since the manual states 50amp service in 220 mode.

oh yeah, since apparently leisure bay went under, just out of curiosity, how hard is it to get replacement parts for this tub? I'm pretty sure if either motor goes out I can just get another

from grainger by going against their cross reference system like I've had to do for industrial washing machines in the past.

my concern is the control board and/or the display board as everything else looks pretty generic inside.

thanks for the help by the way!

[Hillbilly Hot Tub]

you need to hook up the other hot line, and move the dipswitch if you want it to heat while pump is on high. No jumper is needed in this system.

cool, so that wire you were talking about isnt needed for this control board then? I just hook in the 220v wiring where it says and then flip that last dip switch and I'm good to go?

yes

yes

what would you recommend for wiring? I was going to use 6/3 outdoor wiring ($$/foot) since the manual states 50amp service in 220 mode.

thats what you need, suggest an outside dissconnect, home depot has nice spa boxes for this

oh yeah, since apparently leisure bay went under, just out of curiosity, how hard is it to get replacement parts for this tub? I'm pretty sure if either motor goes out I can just get another

from grainger by going against their cross reference system like I've had to do for industrial washing machines in the past.

parts are easy, the only difficult one is if you have crossfire jets

my concern is the control board and/or the display board as everything else looks pretty generic inside.

if the board goes bad, in most cases it is better to replace the entire control system. It does not cost a lot more than a board and has a better warrenty.

thanks for the help by the way!

[n1oty]

In addition to the instructions you have given him, he must also remove that white jumper that is connected to the "Red AC" section of the board. Failure to do so will probably result in damaged wiring or a damaged board. The conversion instructions from Balboa should be inside the front cover of the control box.

John

you need to hook up the other hot line, and move the dipswitch if you want it to heat while pump is on high. No jumper is needed in this system.

cool, so that wire you were talking about isnt needed for this control board then? I just hook in the 220v wiring where it says and then flip that last dip switch and I'm good to go?

yes

yes

what would you recommend for wiring? I was going to use 6/3 outdoor wiring ($$/foot) since the manual states 50amp service in 220 mode.

thats what you need, suggest an outside dissconnect, home depot has nice spa boxes for this

oh yeah, since apparently leisure bay went under, just out of curiosity, how hard is it to get replacement parts for this tub? I'm pretty sure if either motor goes out I can just get another

from grainger by going against their cross reference system like I've had to do for industrial washing machines in the past.

parts are easy, the only difficult one is if you have crossfire jets

my concern is the control board and/or the display board as everything else looks pretty generic inside.

if the board goes bad, in most cases it is better to replace the entire control system. It does not cost a lot more than a board and has a better warrenty.

thanks for the help by the way!

[Hillbilly Hot Tub]

Yes, you are right, my hubby says his bad, he didn't see the jumper there, he said that earlier...that he had to move the jumper, then missed it in the pics. It should trip the breaker before it damages anything, I will email the op.

[stackz]

ok, so I finally got around to wiring up the hot tub this past weekend. I decided against converting it to 220v as the house was built in the 40's and has ancient wiring and a small service that really wont support another large breaker...and the one circuit I was considering turned out to not be 220v as I had thought.

I did find a spare 20amp 110v circuit breaker inside the box my grandpa apparently left for future upgrades. tested it good with my multimeter to 120v. I then ran a brand new outdoor grade dedicated circuit from this breaker to outside at the corner of the house using 12/2 outdoor wiring. Into a rainproof enclosure using a 20amp 120v recepticle. This was in reach of the original power cord from the hot tub which was equipped with a gfci plug. This plug was buggy when I first hooked up the tub.

anyway, tested the circuit and had 120v to the recepticle so I plugged in the tub. got nothing on the "test" light on the gfci plug, so unplugged and smacked it a couple times and plugged it back in, the test light lit up but nothing on the control display on the tub.

ok, so possibly the way I had the gfci plug sitting outside maybe water got into it and it went completely bad. So, flipped off the breaker, pulled the plug apart and hardwired the hot tub directly. flipped the breaker back on and nothing at the tub.

hmmm.

took off the side panel to the tub and opened up the balboa panel and tested it via multimeter at the main control board. I was getting 120v to the control board but nothing on the display. I saw a large fuse and a smaller fuse but didnt pull them. instead I just switched to ohms on the multimeter and tested both and got continuity. wondering if I should have pulled them and tested for continuity but I didnt.

anyway, I also noticed cockroach crap and two live roaches crawling on the board. I had a pool pump have its stationary switch fail due to cockroaches (they are a big problem on my island, get into everything literally) and wondering if maybe they fouled out the board somehow? can a board just go bad from sitting for 4 months?

Is there a way to definitively test the board to see if its bad or not before I have to order a new spa pack off ebay or something for this tub to work again?

also, I see it has two pump motors inside the tub. I'm wanting to test them as well while I'm in there but wondering if they are 110v or if they are stepped down in voltage via the control board or not? dont want to blow them if they are good by juicing them too much.

man this is frustrating...

[stackz]

nobody?

[bfunke]

Be sure to install a GFCI so you don't electrocute yourself.

[stackz]

Be sure to install a GFCI so you don't electrocute yourself.

I was an electrician for 4 years, I'm not worried about that. once I get the tub sorted out I will go back to a gfci setup

[Don the spa guy]

Be sure to install a GFCI so you don't electrocute yourself.

I was an electrician for 4 years, I'm not worried about that. once I get the tub sorted out I will go back to a gfci setup

Pull all the fuses and check for continuity. Sometimes it is just a bad connection at the fuse itself so removing and reinserting is all it takes. Make sure they snap back into place ie. a good connection. Check voltage at the pc board power connection lugs to make sure power is getting to the spa (cord may be damaged) Good Luck

[stackz]

Be sure to install a GFCI so you don't electrocute yourself.

I was an electrician for 4 years, I'm not worried about that. once I get the tub sorted out I will go back to a gfci setup

Pull all the fuses and check for continuity. Sometimes it is just a bad connection at the fuse itself so removing and reinserting is all it takes. Make sure they snap back into place ie. a good connection. Check voltage at the pc board power connection lugs to make sure power is getting to the spa (cord may be damaged) Good Luck

I'm getting power to the lugs on the board. I'll check the fuses themselves outside of the board this afternoon as I knew I should have just pulled them and checked that way.

[bfunke]

Try this link. It's a Balboa troubleshooting manual.

http://www.emeraldspa.com/information_and_support/downloads/balboa_service_manual.pdf

[stackz]

ok, I pulled both fuses today and the smaller one was blown out, no continuity across it.

weird thing is it said 3/10 MDL 250v so I know its a slow blow type fuse. I assumed it meant .3A but only had a 3A in my box. tossed it in and flipped the breaker real quick just to check and sure enough the panel turned on, so I flipped the breaker back off before I burnt anything up.

I went to radio shack and they only have a .25A and .5A MDL type 250v fuse.

anyone know where I can get a .3A MDL fuse without having to order one online??

[stackz]

seriously though.... a 3/10 (300mA, .3A) 250v MDL standard glass fuse is this friggin hard to find?!?!

I've been through all the regular hardware stores (ace, truevalue, lowes, home depot), been to radio shack, hell I've been to 12 different electrical contractor suppliers in town. nobody. seemed only online minimum $20/order was the option. I was even at pool/spa places but they just wanted to sell me a $500 control set instead of a $1 fuse.... :/

last place I tried had 2/10 and 4/10 and said they'd order me a 5-pack of the 3/10 here in 10 business days for $8.00....seriously, balboa what the F were you thinking when you didnt design the control panel power supply circuit to a COMMON FRIGGIN amperage such as .25A....

I know its in case the display board gets submerged so the person doesnt get shocked but still...seriously?? .3A versus .25A?? wtf man.

and yeah, I pulled the board and traced the circuits through the resistors/caps. could have EASILY been redesigned...asses

/end rant

my bad.

[bfunke]

Mouser electric

[stackz]

ok, I had to special order the fuses through a local electrical supply company and they came in yesterday. Got one put in the tub and turned it on. all the jets seem to work and it went through the purge cycle, etc. as stated in the owners manual just fine.

I cant get it out of sleep mode though? the manual says to hit this one button but when I hit it, all the happens is the display cycles between "SLP" and whatever the temperature is.

here's a video I took real quick to better show whats going on...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWB16wZGu-Y

also, how long should it take for a hot tub to come up to temperature? I turned it on yesterday at 4pm and it said 59*F. this morning @ 7am before leaving for work, I checked it again and it was only at 74*F. I'm sure it doesnt take THAT long to heat up....could the heating element be burned out or something?

thanks for all the help so far guys, I really appreciate it!!

[stackz]

oh also, what does this mean. I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the filter. found it randomly while pushing button combos lol. it will cycle from "fil8", "fil6", "fil4", "fil2", "fil0". delays in cycle for changing the filter out?

it wasnt in the list of acronyms provided in the owners manual is all.