bfunke

Typically FL1 error means flow or pressure switch not closed when pump is running. Heater is deactivated. Proper water flow is inhibited or flow/pressure switch may be obstructed, misaligned, or defective. Troubleshooting Steps: 1. Remove filter and allow air to bleed out of cartridge. Check filter for trapped air. 2. Check for proper water level. 3. Check for clogged filter. 4. Check secondary screen filter (Solo Models only) 5. Check for sticking or damaged weir gate. 6. Check for Flow/Pressure Switch problem.

If the water is clean and filtered and adequately brominated, it should be safe to drink in an emergency. Whether you want to drink it after a dozen kids had a hot tub party is another issue...

+1 on magic lube. I have a 60gm tube bought several years ago at Bart's in Litchfield Park Arizona. It's great stuff for neoprene o-rings and seals on pools and spas. I found it also works great on door hinges at the house. It is very sticky so use sparingly. A little goes a long ways.

Under the vinyl is styrofoam wrapped in clear plastic. Many covers have a sheetmetal band around the thin edge to maintain rigidity. Some are also tapered so that the center near the folding hinge is thicker to allow water to drain off the cover. I've found that the foam absorbs water and often expands once the plastic or the foam cracks - good reason not to let the kids climb or sit on the cover. If you like in a snowy area be sure to not allow too much to accumulate or it will break the cover. Agree you will have a difficult time putting a new skin on your old foam. For that price you should be able to get a whole new cover. Measure the length, width, thickness and corner radius. With those numbers you can order a new cover. I've found that my local pool shops aren't always the cheapest but they will usually check your measurements and save you the hassle of shipping plus I like to support my local businesses.

US National electric code specifies 6ga CU for 240V 50A 1 phase AC with 135 foot run length. Are you planning any other loads on the circuit? Is so you may want to go larger and wire a subpanel. Are you planning conduit or Romex run? You'll want to be careful not to create a dangerous overheat situation by mismatching wire applications.

I've found a short garden hose works fine. I lay it out on the lawn and then dip one end in and start a siphon. In just a few minutes i can suck up most of the small gravel and stuff and not lose more than a 1/4 inch of so of water level. Depending on the water level I'll add or siphon a bit. I use the blower to clean off my patio deck periodically and this really cuts back on sand/gravel bits in the tub. As my cover is getting old and deteriorating a bit I've notices more water and sand gets through it near the center seam. We had golf ball hail this past week in SC and that knock some of the stuff loose from my roof which of course got onto my patio and spa cover.

I believe you can reset the watchdog mode by turning the breaker off for 45 minutes.

I've never had a Bullfrog but if I recall from a friend's spa the control unit was Bullfrog proprietary unit made by Balboa. Take a look at balboawatergroup.com and download their troubleshooting manuals. You might also give them a call and talk to a service rep. Hopefully it's just a sensor or a replaceable componenet on the MB. Worst case you could install one of their VS series retrofit kits which run $400-600.

You guys all work too hard! I have the SpaFrog system in my tube and it's great. I live in the South were pH is low so I add two teaspoons of pH-Up on fill. and then a little alkanity increasing. I usually drain the tub every 3 months or so by siphoning the water with a garden hose and wipe it down with a towel and scrubbing bubbles bathroom cleaner before refilling. I also hose off the filter cartridge. I change the SpaFrog bromine cartridge every fill and the mineral cartridge every third fill. Whenever I take a pool sample to my pool store I also take a spa sample. Occasionally he tells me I need to add alkalinity. For my pool I use a Polaris 360 cleaner and put a 3 inch Cl tab in the skimmer and weekly shock it with granulated shock. I don't like to spend time on maintenance but I do enjoy both my pool and spa daily much of the year. Best wishes with your new spa.

Tmraziel - welcome to the forum. Your spa should have a logic circuit that circulates the water for a few minutes prior to energizing the heater. After that it starts heating. If it's 220V it should heat in 4-5 hours as noted above. If it's 110 you'll have t wait about 24 hours for the water to heat. Be sure to keep the cover on while heating or you'll have a lot of thermal loss to the environment which translates to more time and money needed to heat your tub. BTW you may have to change the temp on the first time heating it up. I seem to recall mine going to like 100 by default. I like my water at 104. BTW adjust your pH first and then check the alkalinity and bromine levels. Write back if you have questions.

Mouser electric

Try this link. It's a Balboa troubleshooting manual. http://www.emeraldspa.com/information_and_support/downloads/balboa_service_manual.pdf

Yup. All my covers have leaked at the center seam. +1 on the extra support for snow. Once the foam cracks it'll start absorbing water and then your cover will become very heavy. Agree - why turn it off in winter. I took a Jacuzzi with me to Northern Japan when I was in the service and it was great during the snowy winters. Somehow 200 inches of annual snowfall is much more tolerable with a glass of wine and a hot tub!

The max temp on my spa is 104. Is there a setting or a dip switch on Balboa panels that would let me go to 105 or 106? The old Jacuzzi tubs I had 25 years ago could go to about 107. Sometimes I'd like just a tad more than 104.

It's a 2009 model

Be sure to install a GFCI so you don't electrocute yourself.

I have Spacrest with Waterway 602-4360 valve to control the neck jets on the recliner. The valve has developed a leak and I've found some black tarry residue in my tub. Basic the valve has a half-round cylinder coated with the tarry stuff and which rotates to control flow. I got a new valve with the same part number but it's a completely different style with a cylindrical screw and a silicone seal on the bottom. I was hoping to just replace the guts but appears I'll have to pull the panels and replace some plumbing. Anyone have any experience with these valves. I tried to post a picture but apparently this forum doesn't support uploading jpegs. Bryan