Spa Vs. Pool Chemicals, And Where To Get?

[jennylou]

Does anyone have advice on where to purchase chemicals online? I need A LOT of Dry acid to lower the TA in my tub (just went through initial bottle and still not anywhere near TA 100) and I'm thinking it will get expensive if I have to do this all the time and keep buying from the dealer.

Also, I have noticed that the "brand" (Leisure Time, SpaGuard, etc.) pH down comes in smaller bottles and the pool websites sell the same type of thing (sodium bisulfate) in 8 or 15lb. pails. Are these all the same thing? Can I purchase a big pail from the pool store and use it in my spa? Can I store it outside if it is below freezing? Or is lugging it in and out the downside of buying a big bucket?

Thanks for the help!

[Dresapora]

2002 Sundance Marin 'OH' indication on display Bought a new temp sensor and watched the Sundance YouTube instructional video on how to replace. Followed all directions carefully. Removed the filters and loosend the 1" temp sensor in the filter well. The sensor with its o-ring loosens enough to let some water down the conduit (I've plugged the dry end of the conduit with a rag as per the instructions, but some water drips out). However, although the sensor turns and turns, It does not come out any further than about 1/16". I fed some more of the dry-end sensor cable into the conduit to ensure that there was enough slack in the cable then I tried to pull the sensor gently with pliers but it doesn't budge. It then only takes a couple of turns to lock it down tight and compress the o-ring. What's holding this thing in there? Thanks --- Tom

I agree with you!

I am new here! I am PAM

[chem geek]

You can definitely use the pool chemicals in the spa. The dry acid (sodium bisulfate) is the same. If you are adventurous and careful, you can use Muriatic Acid that you can get at a hardware/big-box store. You can get the half-strength (15% hydrochloric acid) version that fumes less. You can use The Pool Calculator to calculate dosages for any of these chemicals. Well, you might have to play around with the "Effects of Adding Chemicals" since the upper section won't tell you how much you need to lower TA since you don't add all the acid at once (since it would make the pH too low). You go through a cycle of adding it, aerating the water (which makes the pH rise), add some more, etc.

[Hillbilly Hot Tub]

what are you using to test the ALK? I would make sure it is acurate before adding so much sodium bisulfate.

[footie]

I could be wrong but I have found that TA isn't as important as the manufacturers and chemical companies would have you think, I too found the TA 100 a difficult figure to achieve, getting it right threw my pH off so I ended up with a workable compromise of the right 7.6ph and accepting a TA of between 60-80. For 1 month I struggled and failed to meet to desired balance of the two and for the remaining 5 months I have had the tub I have had no problems maintaining this new level and hardly ever add chemical to achieve it either.

P.S.

Also, best look up a commerical firm that maintains and supplies chemical to commerical spas and pools, you will find their prices to be dramatically cheaper, in fact shockingly so.

[waterbear]

Most people don't understand what TA is and does. It is carbonation of the water, plain and simple. If it is high it makes pH rise because of increased outgassing of CO2 and reissts pH drop. If it it low it slows pH rise from outgassing but does not have the ability to keep pH from dropping quickly in case excess acid is added to the water. Where it should be depends on the santizer you use, how much aeration there is and how stable you pH currently is.