JandySaltUser Posted May 21, 2010 Report Share Posted May 21, 2010 I've taken my pool water to be tested for chlorine and it's always at 0 only a few days after Boosting the pool or adding shock. It's almost like the cell isn't generating chlorine unless I set it to Boost. I'm hoping someone can help. -There's enough salt, and other chemical readings are fine -No error codes on the Aqua Pure -Flow light is on, so I know water is flowing I did notice that on the panel it reads 00% for the production rate. But on my Jandy Handheld it reads 60% which is what I set it to. Not sure if this is normal? Any advice would be much appreciated. Technical support from Jandy told me to have a technician look at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polyvue Posted May 22, 2010 Report Share Posted May 22, 2010 I've taken my pool water to be tested for chlorine and it's always at 0 only a few days after Boosting the pool or adding shock. It's almost like the cell isn't generating chlorine unless I set it to Boost. I'm hoping someone can help. -There's enough salt, and other chemical readings are fine -No error codes on the Aqua Pure -Flow light is on, so I know water is flowing I did notice that on the panel it reads 00% for the production rate. But on my Jandy Handheld it reads 60% which is what I set it to. Not sure if this is normal? Any advice would be much appreciated. Technical support from Jandy told me to have a technician look at it. The discrepancy may not be normal -- check to see if this is mentioned in the manual. The output for my SWG displays in volts and amps. When the SWG is operating (producing chlorine) it shows the level of both, when it's not operating, it displays zeros. This doesn't mean it has stopped working, only that it is between cycles of operation (at a 25% setting, the SWG turns on to make chlorine approximately 15 minutes an hour, on average). One way to verify chlorine production is to set the SWG to 100% (or super-chlorinate) output. Log the output displayed on the panel and the handheld for later reference. Gather a couple of water samples - one from the closest return jet in the pool. Another, far away from any pool return. Test these samples immediately, at home, with a FAS/DPD chlorine test (it's more precise than the yellow OTO type). By the time you've taken the samples to the store, some of that chlorine is gone and any comparison between the samples will be difficult. If the sample taken at the return contains significantly higher Free Chlorine than the sample taken away from any return, the SWG is producing chlorine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salpst Posted May 24, 2010 Report Share Posted May 24, 2010 Just curious", what is your CYA level and your pool temp? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted May 24, 2010 Report Share Posted May 24, 2010 Just curious", what is your CYA level and your pool temp? That is where i would start as well... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JandySaltUser Posted May 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2010 Just curious", what is your CYA level and your pool temp? A few days ago when I last tested the CYA was 30-50 and the pool temp was 75 degrees. I starting boosting today because I need chlorine in the pool so I can't try your test yet of setting the production rate to 100%. I know it works when I boost so I know the cell works. It's got to be something between the handheld and the board when using the production rate. I'll try your test after boosting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted May 25, 2010 Report Share Posted May 25, 2010 I would prefer it to be more like 70 (cya) The display on the unit should still read what you have set it to on the remote. You could try taking the cover off and disconnecting the four wire red buss connector from the board (on the top at one of the corners of the PCB), not the one in the middle, and see if that will make a difference. Also, how long are you running the pump each day. The Cl generator will only be on when the pump is on. And then, only a percentage of that time, if the unit is set to anything other than 100%. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salpst Posted May 26, 2010 Report Share Posted May 26, 2010 I agree with Pool Clown! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polyvue Posted May 26, 2010 Report Share Posted May 26, 2010 Just curious", what is your CYA level and your pool temp? A few days ago when I last tested the CYA was 30-50 and the pool temp was 75 degrees. I starting boosting today because I need chlorine in the pool so I can't try your test yet of setting the production rate to 100%. I know it works when I boost so I know the cell works. It's got to be something between the handheld and the board when using the production rate. I'll try your test after boosting. I'm glad that Salpst and Pool Clown mentioned CYA/temp because that motivated me to re-read your initial post. You said that the chlorine tested at zero a few days after boosting with the SWG or adding shock. One would expect that your Free Chlorine (FC) level would be higher than normal after adding shock (powder or granules? liquid chlorine?) so this invites a question or two.... Have you tested the pool water immediately after shocking? What is the normal level of chlorine in the pool? How many hours a day is the filter on? A few more: How many gallons in the pool? How do you shock (what product) and how much do you add? How long (for a few weeks, since last year, etc) has the pool store reported no chlorine in the water? How does the water look (crystal clear, blue, sparkly ... a bit cloudy, greenish, dull)? Just trying to rule out inadequate shock levels, latent algae, filtration issues. In the event it's not a problem with the cell, answers to these questions may help point to the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saarland Posted May 26, 2011 Report Share Posted May 26, 2011 Mine is doing the same thing I thought that it was the flow sensor so I replaced that at $200 because that pool guy wanted $125 just to come out, that did not do the trick. I did not notice until I replaced the flow that it was working in boost. Just 00 on the display during normal operation and the word "wait", no cell on or flow light on. On the hand held no more temp or salinity during normal operation but during boost there is flow led and the cell on on the panel and on the handheld there is the salinity. Can someone help?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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