feather Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 We just got a used 4 yrs old Sundance Majesta, and we put in our patio which slope down a little bit. When we filled the tub, the water on one side was like a few inches above the pillow and on the other side it's few inches below the pillow (just right at jet level). The size of the tub is approx. 7.5 x 7.5, would this create a problem later on having one side of the tub seems to have more water than the other? What I mean, are we supposed to shim the tub to level it out? Any advice/info would be appreciated. thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InHotH20 Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 Hi Feather, Others on this board will know better than me, but my local dealer of Hot Springs and Sundance said not to shim a spa -- just keeping it on the solid surface (even if sloped) will be best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feather Posted June 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 Hi Feather, Others on this board will know better than me, but my local dealer of Hot Springs and Sundance said not to shim a spa -- just keeping it on the solid surface (even if sloped) will be best. Thanks!! I was just worried that the weight of the water on one side would crack the spa or weaken the frame because of the slope. I'm new to this, and really appreciate your reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnepr Dave Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 I have a sloped patio and a small tub, 250 gallons. I have a 1" difference in water level from side to side, about five feet. There haven't been any problems. Pumps and plumbing don't care about what angle at which they run. the shells on hot tubs are strong as heck, I wouldn't worry about that either. I did put the skimmer at the "deep" end of the tub, it is less likely to suck air that way. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spatech (the unreal one) Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 We just got a used 4 yrs old Sundance Majesta, and we put in our patio which slope down a little bit. When we filled the tub, the water on one side was like a few inches above the pillow and on the other side it's few inches below the pillow (just right at jet level). The size of the tub is approx. 7.5 x 7.5, would this create a problem later on having one side of the tub seems to have more water than the other? What I mean, are we supposed to shim the tub to level it out? Any advice/info would be appreciated. thanks!! If you ever want to correct it there is a VERY simple way that is better for the support of the spa than shimming. Simply make a frame out of PT 2x4s (2x6s if the slope is a couple inches) about 1" wider than the base/pedestal of the spa but rip the 2x4s in such a way that when you lay the frame on the sloped concrete the top is level. Then simply fill that framed in area with pea gravel, set the spa inside the frame and it will be level. If you paint the frame the same color as the base of eh spa you probably won’t even notice it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake the dog man Posted June 5, 2009 Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 Look in a manual for the tub, there is likely a shimming diagram. Should take you about 1/2 an hour and cost a few dollars for some long thin shims that run the full width of the tub. I needed 3 pieces which totaled about 8 bucks at Home Depot. Not really needed if it only slightly off, but it sounds like you are more then slightly. Either way, Good Luck & let us know. Jake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feather Posted June 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2009 Look in a manual for the tub, there is likely a shimming diagram. Should take you about 1/2 an hour and cost a few dollars for some long thin shims that run the full width of the tub. I needed 3 pieces which totaled about 8 bucks at Home Depot. Not really needed if it only slightly off, but it sounds like you are more then slightly. Either way, Good Luck & let us know. Jake thanks for all the advice...no one seems to know what i'm talking about when we to home depot. so, we just drop the idea of shimming. we'll leave the hot tub for now the way it is... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rentit Posted June 9, 2009 Report Share Posted June 9, 2009 Look in a manual for the tub, there is likely a shimming diagram. Should take you about 1/2 an hour and cost a few dollars for some long thin shims that run the full width of the tub. I needed 3 pieces which totaled about 8 bucks at Home Depot. Not really needed if it only slightly off, but it sounds like you are more then slightly. Either way, Good Luck & let us know. Jake thanks for all the advice...no one seems to know what i'm talking about when we to home depot. so, we just drop the idea of shimming. we'll leave the hot tub for now the way it is... They didn't know what 2 x 4's and pea gravel was?!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feather Posted June 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2009 Look in a manual for the tub, there is likely a shimming diagram. Should take you about 1/2 an hour and cost a few dollars for some long thin shims that run the full width of the tub. I needed 3 pieces which totaled about 8 bucks at Home Depot. Not really needed if it only slightly off, but it sounds like you are more then slightly. Either way, Good Luck & let us know. Jake thanks for all the advice...no one seems to know what i'm talking about when we to home depot. so, we just drop the idea of shimming. we'll leave the hot tub for now the way it is... They didn't know what 2 x 4's and pea gravel was?!? "long thin shims" - this is what they don't have any idea...maybe the two guys we ask in the lumber department wasn't familiar...or maybe we asked the wrong department... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spatech (the unreal one) Posted June 10, 2009 Report Share Posted June 10, 2009 They didn't know what 2 x 4's and pea gravel was?!? LOL, I think he meant shimming which is what people prefer because its easier. The framed in pea gravel is the better way to go but is a bit more involved though its really just a Saturday morning job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bart6453 Posted June 10, 2009 Report Share Posted June 10, 2009 Thinking a bit more about it....if one does not want to do pea gravel on their patio, but wants a permanent solution.....you could build the same forms and then pour concrete in them. It would only take a small amount...like half a yard or so from the sounds of it. Just an idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuBaDuB Posted June 10, 2009 Report Share Posted June 10, 2009 Thinking a bit more about it....if one does not want to do pea gravel on their patio, but wants a permanent solution.....you could build the same forms and then pour concrete in them. It would only take a small amount...like half a yard or so from the sounds of it. Just an idea. The only problem with concrete is it needs to be thick enough not to crack all up and fall apart....fine if hidden under the tub but not so good if exposed around the tub. If concrete is exposed and the tub is out of level say 4", you'd would want the concrete to be at least 4" minimum at the high end and 8" at the other. Anyway, Ive actually been thinking lately of trying to move my spa onto a few inches of "structural" rigid insulation. For example, Styrofoam HI 40 which can support 40 psi, or over 5000 lbs per sq. ft. I'm wondering if this would have any significant impact on the thermal efficiency of the tub??? Could build up to level with thin levelling grout, cut the insulation to fit the base of the tub, then fill around with concrete/gravel/wood/whatever to hide the insulation. Someone try this and let me know how it goes, ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bart6453 Posted June 10, 2009 Report Share Posted June 10, 2009 Thinking a bit more about it....if one does not want to do pea gravel on their patio, but wants a permanent solution.....you could build the same forms and then pour concrete in them. It would only take a small amount...like half a yard or so from the sounds of it. Just an idea. The only problem with concrete is it needs to be thick enough not to crack all up and fall apart....fine if hidden under the tub but not so good if exposed around the tub. If concrete is exposed and the tub is out of level say 4", you'd would want the concrete to be at least 4" minimum at the high end and 8" at the other. Anyway, Ive actually been thinking lately of trying to move my spa onto a few inches of "structural" rigid insulation. For example, Styrofoam HI 40 which can support 40 psi, or over 5000 lbs per sq. ft. I'm wondering if this would have any significant impact on the thermal efficiency of the tub??? Could build up to level with thin levelling grout, cut the insulation to fit the base of the tub, then fill around with concrete/gravel/wood/whatever to hide the insulation. Someone try this and let me know how it goes, ok? You are certainly on the right path with the concrete....but don't forget that we are not talking about a self supporting slab. As long as the substrate(i.e. existing concrete) has a minimum thickness of 4" you could go as thin as you like. Keeping in mind that the thin edge may crack up a bit...so make sure it is not exposed much or it will look like a sows ear. Or for the thin edge you could grind out a 1"-2" keyway (i.e. notch) in the leading edge to thicken it up where it joins the existing slab. One will want to use a wire mesh....like say a cattle panel to reinforce the poured slab, and I would pin it every 3 feet with vertical re-bar hammer drilled into the existing slab to ensure the overlay does not slip. That type of setup will be bomb proof for the weight that is on it...just make sure to wait at least 14 days to put the spa on it...I would wait 28 just to be sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake the dog man Posted June 11, 2009 Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 Why make things so difficult? You don’t need pea gravel or concrete to fine tune the level of a hottub, especially if it is on a deck. Mine is on a 2nd story deck. Hot Springs has a diagram with the shimming spaces marked. Mine actually recommends shimming rather them leaving it un-level. I don’t think it matters as long as the jets & intakes are all under water. My tub was something like ¾” of and it really just bugged me when I would drain the water collected in one corner. I got 3 6’ pieces of wood, ¾”, ½” & ¼”. I lifted the tub after a draining and slid them in. Took 10 minutes. No forms, No gravel. Good Luck whatever you decide, but it isn’t nearly as big of a deal as these guys are making it out to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
medicineman Posted June 11, 2009 Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 If you shim, you need to shim the entire spa. Especially under the footwell. I would rip 2x4's to the required angle and space them on 12" centers under the spa. Glue them to the substrate (PL400) if you are worried about them moving when you reposition the spa. Trust me, crooked water looks retarded (especially when your friends notice it). And every time you look at it, you will be thinking, 'Why don't I fix that problem?" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuBaDuB Posted June 11, 2009 Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 You are certainly on the right path with the concrete....but don't forget that we are not talking about a self supporting slab. As long as the substrate(i.e. existing concrete) has a minimum thickness of 4" you could go as thin as you like. Sounded to me like there was no concrete there already...maybe I missed that. Yes if there is concrete there, you can do a thinner levelling topping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony Posted June 14, 2009 Report Share Posted June 14, 2009 "long thin shims" - this is what they don't have any idea...maybe the two guys we ask in the lumber department wasn't familiar...or maybe we asked the wrong department... Do not shim that spa. Hotspring spas can be shimmed but Sundance cannot. The very best idea is spa tech's if you need to level it. If it is not too far off and the water level does not bother you, then leave it. The only side you need to worry about is the side the filter weir door is on. You do not want the water level to interfere with filtering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rentit Posted June 14, 2009 Report Share Posted June 14, 2009 They didn't know what 2 x 4's and pea gravel was?!? LOL, I think he meant shimming which is what people prefer because its easier. The framed in pea gravel is the better way to go but is a bit more involved though its really just a Saturday morning job. oh! He meant the shimming...you DON'T want to do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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