2001 Hs Prodigy No-fault 6000 Heater Replacement

[method]

2001 HS Prodigy No-Fault 6000 Heater Replacement

I've ordered a replacement titanium no-fault 6000 but I have no clue how to go about replacing the malfunctioning heater without draining the tub. I would rather drain the tub when the outside temp is above 40 degrees. Is there any way to replace the heater without draining the tub? I didn't notice any valves to cut off water flow. Any useful input is greatly appreciated.

[The Pup]

No gate valves?

[Dan.The.Spa.Man]

No gate valves?

I heat the lines up with a heat gun and use needle-nosed vise-grips to clamp the lines off (3 pairs are needed).

[method]

No gate valves?

I heat the lines up with a heat gun and use needle-nosed vise-grips to clamp the lines off (3 pairs are needed).

Excuse my ignorance but where do you clamp the lines? Doesn't heating the water lines warp them? In theory that seems to be an effective way to save a lot of hassle with the water! Thanks for the reply.

[Natetech]

You have little choice here, drain the tub or heat pipes and use vise grips. This may still leak past the vise grips and possible damage pipe if you are careless.

[Dan.The.Spa.Man]

No gate valves?

I heat the lines up with a heat gun and use needle-nosed vise-grips to clamp the lines off (3 pairs are needed).

Excuse my ignorance but where do you clamp the lines? Doesn't heating the water lines warp them? In theory that seems to be an effective way to save a lot of hassle with the water! Thanks for the reply.

Clamp the 3/4" tubes going into and out of the heater, and the 1/8" bleedline in the back. I've done this thousands of times without ever causing any damage. The tubes will come right back to shape shortly after.

[stevenz1g]

No gate valves?

I heat the lines up with a heat gun and use needle-nosed vise-grips to clamp the lines off (3 pairs are needed).

Excuse my ignorance but where do you clamp the lines? Doesn't heating the water lines warp them? In theory that seems to be an effective way to save a lot of hassle with the water! Thanks for the reply.

Clamp the 3/4" tubes going into and out of the heater, and the 1/8" bleedline in the back. I've done this thousands of times without ever causing any damage. The tubes will come right back to shape shortly after.

You know, I was just going to say that but it seems like every thread I come across and want to put a reply, you have the exact same reply, but quicker! You seem like you know your stuff

[method]

I've replaced the heater. The copper ground wire was too short b/c the replacement heater was a bit different than the original. I powered the tub on anyway not thinking it would be that big of a deal to run it for a short period without the ground attached. The power indicator on the outside display began blinking. I immediately powered the tub down. Any idea why it was blinking? Is it safe to run for a short period without the copper ground wire attached to the side of the control box?

No gate valves?

I heat the lines up with a heat gun and use needle-nosed vise-grips to clamp the lines off (3 pairs are needed).

Excuse my ignorance but where do you clamp the lines? Doesn't heating the water lines warp them? In theory that seems to be an effective way to save a lot of hassle with the water! Thanks for the reply.

Clamp the 3/4" tubes going into and out of the heater, and the 1/8" bleedline in the back. I've done this thousands of times without ever causing any damage. The tubes will come right back to shape shortly after.

You know, I was just going to say that but it seems like every thread I come across and want to put a reply, you have the exact same reply, but quicker! You seem like you know your stuff

[stevenz1g]

I've replaced the heater. The copper ground wire was too short b/c the replacement heater was a bit different than the original. I powered the tub on anyway not thinking it would be that big of a deal to run it for a short period without the ground attached. The power indicator on the outside display began blinking. I immediately powered the tub down. Any idea why it was blinking? Is it safe to run for a short period without the copper ground wire attached to the side of the control box?

No gate valves?

I heat the lines up with a heat gun and use needle-nosed vise-grips to clamp the lines off (3 pairs are needed).

Excuse my ignorance but where do you clamp the lines? Doesn't heating the water lines warp them? In theory that seems to be an effective way to save a lot of hassle with the water! Thanks for the reply.

Clamp the 3/4" tubes going into and out of the heater, and the 1/8" bleedline in the back. I've done this thousands of times without ever causing any damage. The tubes will come right back to shape shortly after.

You know, I was just going to say that but it seems like every thread I come across and want to put a reply, you have the exact same reply, but quicker! You seem like you know your stuff

If I remember correctly that's the high limit when the power light is blinking.

[hottubdan]

2001 HS Prodigy No-Fault 6000 Heater Replacement

I've ordered a replacement titanium no-fault 6000 but I have no clue how to go about replacing the malfunctioning heater without draining the tub. I would rather drain the tub when the outside temp is above 40 degrees. Is there any way to replace the heater without draining the tub? I didn't notice any valves to cut off water flow. Any useful input is greatly appreciated.

clamps

[method]

I don't recall seeing the "pressure connector switch". Looking over the instructions and it mentions that it must be connected to P34. I'll have to look at it in the morning.

I killed the power. Turned on the pump power, then the heater power, and the power light was solid. The no-fault 6000 sticker looks like it melted on the new heater. Doesn't seem like that's a good sign. I felt it and it didn't feel warm. Should it be? My fingers are crossed that the heater's actually doing it's job. I'll know in a couple hours.

I've replaced the heater. The copper ground wire was too short b/c the replacement heater was a bit different than the original. I powered the tub on anyway not thinking it would be that big of a deal to run it for a short period without the ground attached. The power indicator on the outside display began blinking. I immediately powered the tub down. Any idea why it was blinking? Is it safe to run for a short period without the copper ground wire attached to the side of the control box?

No gate valves?

I heat the lines up with a heat gun and use needle-nosed vise-grips to clamp the lines off (3 pairs are needed).

Excuse my ignorance but where do you clamp the lines? Doesn't heating the water lines warp them? In theory that seems to be an effective way to save a lot of hassle with the water! Thanks for the reply.

Clamp the 3/4" tubes going into and out of the heater, and the 1/8" bleedline in the back. I've done this thousands of times without ever causing any damage. The tubes will come right back to shape shortly after.

You know, I was just going to say that but it seems like every thread I come across and want to put a reply, you have the exact same reply, but quicker! You seem like you know your stuff

If I remember correctly that's the high limit when the power light is blinking.

[Dan.The.Spa.Man]

Not having the ground attached will not cause any of that. Just make sure it gets re-attached for safety.

Most likely there was an air bubble in the line or the circ pump didn't start up when you re-powered the tub. You may have to bleed it out or give the circ pump a tap with a screwdriver to restart it.

That extra connection goes into the box and plugs in to a pin that now should have a jumper on it which says "pressure Switch"