method

I don't recall seeing the "pressure connector switch". Looking over the instructions and it mentions that it must be connected to P34. I'll have to look at it in the morning. I killed the power. Turned on the pump power, then the heater power, and the power light was solid. The no-fault 6000 sticker looks like it melted on the new heater. Doesn't seem like that's a good sign. I felt it and it didn't feel warm. Should it be? My fingers are crossed that the heater's actually doing it's job. I'll know in a couple hours. I heat the lines up with a heat gun and use needle-nosed vise-grips to clamp the lines off (3 pairs are needed). Excuse my ignorance but where do you clamp the lines? Doesn't heating the water lines warp them? In theory that seems to be an effective way to save a lot of hassle with the water! Thanks for the reply. Clamp the 3/4" tubes going into and out of the heater, and the 1/8" bleedline in the back. I've done this thousands of times without ever causing any damage. The tubes will come right back to shape shortly after. You know, I was just going to say that but it seems like every thread I come across and want to put a reply, you have the exact same reply, but quicker! You seem like you know your stuff If I remember correctly that's the high limit when the power light is blinking.

I've replaced the heater. The copper ground wire was too short b/c the replacement heater was a bit different than the original. I powered the tub on anyway not thinking it would be that big of a deal to run it for a short period without the ground attached. The power indicator on the outside display began blinking. I immediately powered the tub down. Any idea why it was blinking? Is it safe to run for a short period without the copper ground wire attached to the side of the control box? I heat the lines up with a heat gun and use needle-nosed vise-grips to clamp the lines off (3 pairs are needed). Excuse my ignorance but where do you clamp the lines? Doesn't heating the water lines warp them? In theory that seems to be an effective way to save a lot of hassle with the water! Thanks for the reply. Clamp the 3/4" tubes going into and out of the heater, and the 1/8" bleedline in the back. I've done this thousands of times without ever causing any damage. The tubes will come right back to shape shortly after. You know, I was just going to say that but it seems like every thread I come across and want to put a reply, you have the exact same reply, but quicker! You seem like you know your stuff

I heat the lines up with a heat gun and use needle-nosed vise-grips to clamp the lines off (3 pairs are needed). Excuse my ignorance but where do you clamp the lines? Doesn't heating the water lines warp them? In theory that seems to be an effective way to save a lot of hassle with the water! Thanks for the reply.

2001 HS Prodigy No-Fault 6000 Heater Replacement I've ordered a replacement titanium no-fault 6000 but I have no clue how to go about replacing the malfunctioning heater without draining the tub. I would rather drain the tub when the outside temp is above 40 degrees. Is there any way to replace the heater without draining the tub? I didn't notice any valves to cut off water flow. Any useful input is greatly appreciated.