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Heaterh Temperature Misreading


jimati

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I have a sta-rite 400NA (SR400NA). As soon as the heater is turned on, the temperature reading on the control panel shows 108. Of course the highest temperature can only be 104. The pool water is only 74 so I know it should turn on. The guy at Nationwide pool told me to touch the wires on the thermaster to see if it kicks on automatically. I did that and the temerature reading went up to 125 and it never came on. Any suggestions? The users manual says I need a new control board.

Please help!!

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off the top of my head when that happens on those it usually is a high limit switch failure...call up sta-rite/pentair and they'll troubleshoot it over the phone with you

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  • 4 weeks later...

Same problem here. According to manual trouble shooting guide the control board is the issue. They cost hundreds of dollars!! I've had this heater for a few years now and it's nothing but a money pit. The only time it works is in the middle of the summer when I don't need it. Last year I had it worked on in May and then again in Sept. What a piece of junk.

Oh yeah, called Pentair today because I replaced the control board last year and thought it might be under warranty.......it turns out the warranty is a whopping 90 days. Not even whole summer in the south. The guy wanted to know if it was "out in the elements". What kinda question is that?? He was nice though, just no help.

By the way, mine was reading high so I bypassed the high limit switch. The display showed 76 degrees and the thing still wouldn't turn on. The manual leaves no doubt it's the control board. My question is, do you need the "kit" as listed in the parts section or can you just get the board??

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Did anyone try the thermistor? They are easy enough to pull (it's the top sensor on the left side of the manifold) When they are bad they will be brick red, teal, or black - they are a lot less expensive than the control board. (BTW - the control board 'kit' is just the control board, I suppose they call it a 'kit' because it comes with the 4 screws to mount it - however, you already have them from the old board :huh: )

While I'm on this, if it ends up being the thermistor - you had best start keeping an eye on your pH, all the bad thermistors I've had to replace have failed as a result of acidic water eating them and the heat exchanger is next! If you think the control boards are expensive, you can buy 3+ control boards for the price of a heat exchanger :o

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Did anyone try the thermistor? They are easy enough to pull (it's the top sensor on the left side of the manifold) When they are bad they will be brick red, teal, or black - they are a lot less expensive than the control board. (BTW - the control board 'kit' is just the control board, I suppose they call it a 'kit' because it comes with the 4 screws to mount it - however, you already have them from the old board :huh: )

While I'm on this, if it ends up being the thermistor - you had best start keeping an eye on your pH, all the bad thermistors I've had to replace have failed as a result of acidic water eating them and the heat exchanger is next! If you think the control boards are expensive, you can buy 3+ control boards for the price of a heat exchanger :o

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The manual says clearly that a control board is needed. I bought one today for $282 and that was wholesale. (I have a friend who has a pool supply business) Anyway, now I get a message "EO6". No idea what that means. It's not addressed in the trouble shooting guide. Anybody know what that means?

I'm now gonna take a look at the thermister thing a ma bob.

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TV, I'm pretty sure that the "E-06" is the stack flue sensor (though it's now become a stack flue switch) It may just be that your new control board isn't communicating with it- my co-worker knows how to reset it, I left my manual at work - but tomorrow pm I'll tell you how to get the 2 in synch :D

05/20/08 - To get the stack flue switch/ sensor to change, hold the OFF button for ~ 30 seconds until the display shows "Ab0" then press the off button again to show "SF0" hit the temp up (red) button til it goes to 1 (or it may be at SF1 and have to go back to SF0). If this doesn't work then the stack flue sensor/ switch is bad.

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  • 1 month later...

I have the same problem on my starite SN200NA. Display always reads 125-126 but pool water is 65-72. I pulled the thermistor and tested it with an ohm meter. It does vary as the temperature changes (resistance goes down as heat goes up) but I'm not sure what the ohm range should be. Does anyone know what this range should be? I called sta-rite/pentair and they referred me to a local dealer who wasn't any help.

It may just be time to replace the control board as others have mentioned. 5 of the LED segments are burned out on mine so I have to guess the error code and temperature it is displaying. That's just a minor inconvenience I'd put up with if I knew I could fix it with a $60 thermistor instead of a $300 control board.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Thank you seangos!!! I was all ready to just buy the control board and I checked this forum one last time. I saw that the thermistor fixed your problem so I gave it a shot and it fixed mine too. Heater is working great now. Thanks again for posting your results. It saved me a bunch of money.

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