ParagonPool&Supply

Jandy's onetouch aqualink has light dimmers

now I say this with all due respect like ricky bobby... how can you say an intellitouch is easy to use...an easytouch is better but still bad....it is the biggest pain in the ass to program...i used to be an ace with those and it would take easily take 30-45 minutes to set up a basic shared equipment setup....oh yea and bump setting up lights on those things...i wanted to throw that gay ass remote of theirs into a brick wall...their user manual was written by someone who things the number 7 comes before the number 2...i'll go on for days.... the FIRST jandy setup I did was a dual equipment with about 10 other circuits, and also was a onetouch....meaning I had alot more to setup than your basic shared equipment which most people have.... it took me 15 MINUTES!! not to mention the homeowner (who is probably legally retarted) has never had a problem figuring out how to use it meanwhile a ton of a homeowners with the Pentair always are getting lost...even those who have had several pools in the past after that I told Pentair to suck it and stopped remembering how to program their backwards ass automation systems... I guess everyone's got their opinions and we'll always argue pentair vs jandy, ford vs. chevy, cowboys vs. redskins.....but i just wanna have a timed match with programming those things and then handing them to the average joe homeowner to settle the score

pics would probably be most helpful here man....try to get some up and we'll see what we can do

do your homework....find some respected residential pool guys and ask them their honest opinion...shoot, tell em you'll pay them for an hour of consultation just so you've got a local opinion...good luck

my opinions are formed totally upon experience...80% of my business is high end automated residential pools...aka I am in daily contact with this equipment I used to be a fan of Pentair...mainly cause it worked fine at the time, and I had not been exposed to alot of the other manufacturers.... then **** started malfunctioning...and Pentair equipment is a p.i.t.a. in general....its like working on my ford vs my honda....everything on the ford is a pain to get to and fix vs. the honda which, when rarely malfunctions...is easy to diagnose and repair in any event...I have found Jandy equipment to be the most reliable and easiest to use in general...their stuff is right on Pentair with cost but soars above in quality...and sure it costs more than Hayward crap...but thats exactly what most Hayward equipment is...

the units are easy enough to hook up as long as you familiarize yourself with the instructions...wiring these units is very basic electrical work chlormatic made saltwater units for Jandy....if youre gonna install a Jandy aqualink add the swg kit into it dont ever buy the Pentair intellichlor...it is a piece of junk...and it wont interface with your automation the Jandy aqualink is the easiest unit to use and program...the goldline unit is alright but to me is not as high quality as the Jandy aqualink.... switching the bulbs to leds later is a decent idea but I'd just do it from the get go...Jandy just came out with LED lights... by all means...stay away from Pentair...their electronics are programmed by aliens...over time I have found that Jandy equipment is the most reliable and their automation systems are alot more intuitive than any other on the market....

jandy del 60 with their new backwash valve

you could install a Levolor system (its all electronic and costs about 300-400 bucks) the only concern would be getting your sensor wire set up but there are ways to run one in an existing pool and still keep the wire hidden... the system works by opening an irrigation valve connected to your pool plumbing to add water when the sensor prongs are not covered with water...

you could install a Levolor system (its all electronic and costs about 300-400 bucks) the only concern would be getting your sensor wire set up but there are ways to run one in an existing pool and still keep the wire hidden... the system works by opening an irrigation valve connected to your pool plumbing to add water when the sensor prongs are not covered with water...

I only sell Jandy....part for part they knock the socks off of anything Pentair can throw at em... push for the de filter but if your city really wont allow it, go with the cartridge....the cartridge just takes longer to clean than it would to backwash a de filter

what kind of filter do you run??? have you had alot of pollen falling lately???

unless you wanna get a flexable piece of gas line inbetween, i'd just remove the grommet..if you want to seal up the hole, do it after the gas line is hooked up...you could easily put silcone around any gap thats left.. sometimes you gotta rig an install due to things like this...i really dont think it will hurt it to have a little gap there...it sure wont cause the flame to get blown out...

ive replaced drain covers in 10 feet of water using my lungs...whats so complicated about this repair??

the advantage to a top mount is that you don't have to worry about bulkheads leaking as you would with a sidemount..fixing them is a pain in the ass... disadvantages would be that some top mount multiports are a little harder to service if they have a leaky spider gasket...and if you have to replace the whole multiportmake sure you have unionized your pipes near the filter because you'll have to unscrew them from the multiport...

I've taken one apart before...its not harder than other pumps out there....sure there are a few more bolts to deal with than a hayward but thats not really a big deal when you're already taking one apart

yea def dont panic...its a problem you can solve.... what is your pool made of (liner concrete fiberglass???) first....mark the level...add no water and dont run your equipment....after a day has it dropped any more??? is the water still above any lights??? second....mark it leave the water still at the low level...and run the equip...just turn off your skimmers and pull through the drain....does the level stay the same???? get back to me after youve done that...

yea def dont panic...its a problem you can solve.... what is your pool made of (liner concrete fiberglass???) first....mark the level...add no water and dont run your equipment....after a day has it dropped any more??? is the water still above any lights??? second....mark it leave the water still at the low level...and run the equip...just turn off your skimmers and pull through the drain....does the level stay the same???? get back to me after youve done that...

off by 1 inch in what direction?? ps.....please dont caps lock it

Jandy Stealth...huge haircatcher=less time cleaning it while vac'ing and doesnt clog up easily when it gets debris like those other pumps do these things are hard to kill...they can run for days pulling air from a clogged skimmer or from low water..and they are extremely quiet...they make a Whisperflo sound like a challenger I work around about 50 of these pumps a week at a bunch of pools and never had to replace a motor yet..some are well over 6 years old and run year round plus unionized connections=easy ass installation I have fallen in love with these pumps...yes, I am that obsessed with pool equipment, and I am insane

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sorry to hear that...the builder I do alot of work for uses only Polaris 280's...I like em the best even over the 360...they're gear driven but dont get jacked up like the Legend....and pretty darn durable.. we take care of a pool built by someone else for a homebuilder my builder now builds for and it has a Legend 2 on it along with all the other junk-ass Pentair equipment...and yea the thing is a piece...it cant climb...corners confuse it and it has a funky cleaning pattern...and this is a rectangular pool... see if you can pawn the Legend off on ebay...then trade up your 360 for a 280

true...any indiscretion by the tech., etc. concerning flex or rigid for that matter can result in those problems plumbing hot tubs is a different story though...you've gotta use flex on those...it would probably be impossible to replumb one with rigid...

you see that one...one piece of flex pulled out of the infloor water valve, after working fine for years....the valves were not an issue...there was only one valve on the system and it was a check valve... that repair set the homeowner back about $1,500.00... all because of the one flex line used on that infloor system...because the builder, who I know...has a lack of skilled employees who would rather work with flex then their brains... that being said...I'll agree with you that when you run flex without many glue joints..aka point a to b, you'll probably be fine...but in most cases I cannot trust it after seeing situations like this and a few others....

hah ok dude you win im not gonna get into it with you..ill go to my car racing forum where I can actually get in a decent debate... that being said any properly plumbed rigid pipe should accomodate ground "shifting"...flex pipe is for novices and aboveground crap....go sell some spa chemicals

it depends on what filter you have...give me the make and model and I'll let you know how much de you need to add after backwashing