cranbiz

Do you have a multimeter and if so, can you use it? When the tub is calling for heat, check for 240V across the heater contacts. If you have 240V, the relay is good and the heater is bad. If you don't have 240V cross the contacts, it's probably a bad relay. You can also ohm out the heater. With the power off, disconnect the heater. Make sure you use 2 wrenches, one on the top nut and one on the bottom nut. Your heater should ohm out between 11-18 ohm's Any more or less, replace the heater.

What @ratchett said. Pump or siphon it out, use a shop vac to get the last bits in the tub. List it up on FB Marketplace or Craigslist for a minimal cost or free and see what happens.

Can you get a picture of the control box under the spa? As well as the wiring diagram on the back of the cover. This will tell us the controls manufacturer and the model of the controls. It's going to be something like this one but don't order this until we know who made your control box. https://www.wildwestpoolsupplies.com/hydroquip-4-button-control-panel-with-temperature-readout-34-0037d-s/?wi=off&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2qKmBhCfARIsAFy8buL8VeKK305VnFz320MxBUrsuOqVGoLRWR79Y05RVFJn5ydSKQbuIR8aAoloEALw_wcB

It's probably mis jumpered. As my northern friend above said, post up pictures of the circuit board and the wiring diagram usually found on the inside of the cover.

Very interesting, my friend. I believe you are on to something.

Many use The Cover Guys.

Call your dealer. It's under warranty. Not worth messing with it and possibly voiding the warranty. It could be programming or a bad pump.

The pump is supposed to run on a schedule set by you. It can be 2x2hours 2x4hours, 2x6hours, 2x8hours or continuous. Some tubs have a different schedule but most have a way to program the filter cycles.

Another thought is it could be the flow switch/flow sensor.

OH can be a couple of things. It usually happens when the temperature probe senses the water is above the programmed limit. Things that cause this is poor flow thru the heater or a bad high limit sensor. If you have a circulation pump, that could be bad, it's not uncommon. The first thing to do is pull the filter and run the tub without it. A dirty filter will absolutely cause poor flow and an overheat condition. With a multimeter, read the resistance of the high limit sensor. It should be in the 10,000 ohm range at room temperature.

I can't find anything on error HA. Your video doesn't work either. You don't need to keep repeat posting this post. Not everyone here that can help sits by the computer waiting for an issue to help with. We usually ask for pictures and that you start your own post. Is it doing anything? Pump runs, water flows,? Is the water getting warm/hot at all? Is there a removable filter? If so, remove it and see what happens. Check to see is all plugs are tight. If you can unplug and reconnect the plugs for the pump and sensors. You may have had one come loose. If nothing works, I suspect that it's not something you are not understanding but a genuine defect that requires warranty service. Now that is probably going to be impossible to get. Can you pack it back up and return it to Wayfair? Unfortunately, inflatable hot tub manufacturers are less than responsive on problems. Most are Chinese companies making them for someone else to put a label on. Many are considered unrepairable by the manufacturer.

Don't use strips. They are hard to read and inaccurate. Like @CanadianSpaTechsaid, get a Taylor kit K-2106 for Bromine if you plan to stay with Bromine.

Generally you want your hardness in the 200ppm range. I would get it down to 200ppm and then see what happens with keeping levels where they should be.

Check the heater. Make sure the element is not touching the tube. Also test the high limit sensor.

Air lock is easy. At the pump, crack the coupling and keep it cracked open until water flows freely.

If the capacitor is bad, it should. For a fairly long period of time, the market was flooded with counterfeit Chinese capacitors. These would work for a few years and then leak or fail with the tops doming up. Replacing them with proper quality capacitors fixs those problems.

Why would anyone take offense? The whole premise of this board is to help each other fix their tubs. Some people have the ability to fully DIY, some don't. Go for it and let us know how you make out.

There are 2 fuses to check. The 1/8th amp (F2) and the 3 amp (F5) fuses.

I see a heater relay that looks suspect. If the relay is shorted, that can easily cause an overheat situation. Relays are around $15 each. I would test the 2 heater relays and replace them if bad.

The Cover Guy is a popular suggestion here.

OK, 110V tub wiring. Heater light never comes on? Is the display OK? Any codes, messages or dashes on it if it's ok?

External air source. You can use a shop vac that has a blower function or an air compressor.

As for the heater, when the tub is calling for heat, measure the voltage on the heater terminals. Depending on your setup, you should have either 120V or 240V across the terminals when the tub wants heat. If you do have voltage, it's a bad heater. If you don't, it's most likely a bad relay. Looking at the board, do you have any burn marks on it? Upload pictures of your control board and wiring diagram.

You will have stagnant water in the lines. Unless you blow out every jet and line, you can't avoid it.

If it's new, it should be under warranty. I would call your dealer and ask the service department and schedule a visit if they can't walk you through a fix. My dealer walked me though an issue when mine was new over the phone.