RDspaguy

Those instructions are for a non-circ pump system, those with a circ pump function as you describe. I would say that your circ pump is faulty or you have some flow restriction on the circ pump, such as clogged filters or debris in the impeller. It is possible that there is a check valve that has failed and is restricting flow. You keep saying "flow switch" but is it a flow switch or a pressure switch? Post a pic.

Sounds like a locked rotor or blown start capacitor on the pump. If you can access the back of the motor you can turn the motor by hand to determine if it is spinning free or locked up, and maybe start it by hand by spinning the shaft while it is humming.

Could be.

Depends on where it's leaking and what type of drain valve. You should have a hose cap with gasket on your drain connection if it is a garden hose type valve. Others come with their own caps. But gaskets and o-rings go bad and could be an issue. Some are designed to stop water flow back inside the cabinet and so avoid freeze damage to the valve, and should not be capped. Those must be replaced, as I have never gotten one apart without breaking it.

Balboa controls, M7 technology. It uses the temp sensors to determine flow. So it is reading a greater difference between the A sensor (where the water enters the heater) and the B sensor (where the water leaves the heater) than it is expecting. This could be a low flow condition or a failing sensor. If I were there I would check that the circ pump is working and for debris in the impeller. Then I would test the sensors. So, do you have a multimeter and a big pair of channel locks? Post a pic of the equipment area.

My son is in there just about every day, the rest of us maybe once or twice a week.

Refresh our memory on what tub you have, we "see" so many... LF is the result of the flow detection components reading insufficient flow through the heater. This could be a filter, faulty flow/pressure switch, faulty or clogged pump, or control issue.

I add 1 tsp plus 1/2 to 1 tsp dichlor per user after use on a 400 gallon or so spa. That should be enough to land me in the 3ppm zone, but since I will get immediate oxidation and the chlorine combining to form chloramines it would be difficult to actually read that in time. I have an 8 year old so mine saw frequent heavy use. I also use nature2 (silver ion) as well as ozone. And drain every 3 months and replace my nature2. I don't smell chemicals, have ph issues, get strange rashes or itchy skin, or use mps. If it gets a bit murky I will hit it hard (1/2-1 cup) with liquid chlorine (12%). This happens if I spill a drink, one of the dogs jumps in, or my son is in and out with playtime in the yard. I will also mention that these amounts are in a range because I don't use a measuring device, so it is actually a bit of dichlor poured into the cap that looks about right, and a few splashes of liquid from the jug. 🙄 Yep. After all, it's just my tub. Not like it's a paying customer or anything.😉 That should drive @waterbearbatshit crazy.🤪

Yeah... likely excuse...😉

I think you are overthinking it. If your cover is closed then no new contaminants are entering the water. Ozone can't get 100%, but if you sanitize after use then close it up the ozone should be fine to keep it fresh for several days at least. I personally add chlorine after each use and rely on my ozone to get rid of it before I open up again, and .5ppm is my goal at time of use.

That isn't nearly enough. You don't wear bathing suits, do you?😉

Yes.

High sanitizer is not good on several components, but ph issues, especially low ph, are what really do the damage.

Start your own thread. Include pics of your circuit board, wiring diagram on the box cover, and breakers.

I have used dye to locate leaks in pools and inground spas, even a few portables to get info before digging and racking up the $. But dye is used to see the slow flow of water toward a leak point from inside the pool or spa, not to dye the foam outside. With the amount you would need and the cost of leak detection dye, I would not even consider it. But with still water the dye will tell you if there is a flow out of the moto jet drain. Remove the cover and use an eye dropper to squeeze out a bit of dye, slowly and holding very still, near the suspected location. The dye will slowly streak out toward the leak if it is nearby, and just hang in a slowly expanding blob if there is no current. If you move at all, or release the eyedropper bulb, or breathe, or think too hard you will create a current in the water and ruin your test.

Gel coat drips. Use epoxy putty to fill, then resurface with clearcoat if you like. Bathtub refinishing kit would work as well for the finish, and may even come close to the original, but I'd fill first with A/B putty. Some are even white.

The wiring diagram shows only single speed pumps. Can't tell how it's wired on the board, but it looks like nothing is connected to pump 1, just pump 2 and circulation pump.

It can be handled in a variety of ways, depending on your skill and budget. If you can clean out the cracks so they aren't black then an acrylic clearcoat would do the trick pretty well. Even clear nail polish would work.

That's what I said!😁 I gave my 2 cents to this guy on another forum.

Disconnecting the circ pump will just cause a flo error and prevent heating. It will not shut everything down. Was the power off when you disconnected it? Did you disconnect both wires? Check fuses and circuit breaker volage.

Ok. You have voltage to the heater but not the jet pump. Is the circ pump running? Why isn't it heating, or overheating? Are there any errors on the control, or flashing indicator lights, or such? Post a pic of the topside control. Some heaters have a manual reset button (usually wherever it will be hardest to find 😉). Check for one. Turn off breakers and test resistance across the heater wires at the board. Post results. Test voltage to the circ pump. Verify incoming voltage from both breakers as the jet pump uses a different breaker than the heating system. You can't bypass the board aside from wiring the pump directly to another power connection. Does your board have a jet2 connection? Does that connection have voltage across the terminals? Most hardware stores will have splitters for spade terminals, turning one into 2. Use those where the red/white/black wires connect to the two boards. If your pump is 240v use black/red, and if 120v use black/white. Connect the pump wires and it will run non-stop.

Under the circumstances as described I would have to say that you have a faulty gfci or main breaker. This is assuming both breakers are the same amp rating. If the sub panel didn't get wet, I would lean toward main breaker.

Yes, but that's not by a great deal.

That's what I would do. Also disconnect the auxiliary. Some systems recognize a shorted button and automatically lock the topside to prevent accidental equipment issues, such as a pump running continuously or such. Not sure on yours, but very possible.