RDspaguy

30 ohms is a pretty high resistance for a closed relay, suggesting bad contacts (points) in the relay which will produce heat and reduce your heaters output. With the heater off, run the pump for 10 minutes or so to ensure no residual heat in the element then turn off the power and take an ohm reading of both sensors. If they are more than a few hundred ohms apart the heater will not turn on. Most systems will display an error code, but yours may not, being a system typically used in jetted bathtubs. Cheap with no frills, and pretty old as well.

Private spas are unregulated, just like private pools. You can do anything you want to in a private spa. There are many forums about private pools and spas (as you know) but for public you won't find much information on forums. Few professionals give away their knowledge for free. And most pool stores do not, and cannot, touch a public pool. In most places you must be a Certified Pool Operator (CPO) or under the supervision of one to maintain a public pool. And yes, I do have my CPO certification. Check NSPF (National Swimming Pool Foundation), Pool and Spa News, and Aqua magazine for more information. You might also check into vacation rental owner forums. Not sure if there are any, but if so they may have some good advice specific to your situation. When I maintained vacation rental spas, they were compliant with health department regulations at the start of every rental. We were not responsible for anything after that as the owners did not pay us to test and maintain during the rental so the responsiblity fell on the owner. But we would visit immediately after a check-out and before a check in and kept records to prove it was compliant before each group checked in. And there were times the spa would be closed at that time if we were unable to make it compliant in time, resulting in a partial refund to the customer if the spa was advertised as an amenity. Incidentally, ozone will deplete not only chloramines and chlorine, but bromine as well to lesser degree. It will oxidize bromide to bromine then oxidize the bromine, thus reducing your bromide reserve. They say it is ok to have 1-2ppm because you will be hard-pressed to maintain anything higher. And chlorine the same but down to .5ppm (yes point 5). Most public spas and vacation rentals (in my experience) do not use ozone for that reason. If you have ozone I would suggest you disconnect it if you want to maintain a residual. BTW, this is the only circumstance in which I will say that, I myself won't own a spa without it. But mine is not public.

Exactly. The regulations on sanitizer levels do not change because of minerals, metals, ozone, or uv.

Thanks for the update. Glad it is working well.👍

Cal-hypo (calcium hypochlorite) is not a good idea for spas due to the frequency of shocking and the resulting high calcium levels. It also must be pre-dissolved or it can bleach out surfaces where it settles.

Chlorine does not produce cya, but some forms of chlorine contain cya, dichlor being abot 45% cya, tablets also contain some cya. Cyanuric acid is sold as chlorine stabilizer, and slows chlorine burn off from uv (sunlight). It also is used to stabilize some packaged chlorine to prevent unwanted reactions and rapid depletion in packaging. Once cya exceeds about 50ppm it binds with the chlorine preventing the chlorine from binding with organic contaminants (sanitizing). So high cya is bad news for your water. Borates are a ph stabilizer, not a ph adjuster. Soda ash or baking soda will raise ph.

Mineral purifiers, by whatever name, put silver and copper into the water. These interfere with the reproductive cycle (cell division) of single celled organisms such as bacteria and protozoa. I am having the strangest feeling of deja-vu, Susan. Didn't we go over this before? By slowing the reproductive rate of organic contaminants it gives your sanitizer more time to kill them and fewer of them to kill. This allows for lower sanitizer levels. I have never heard that it is incompatible with sodium bromide. Bromine becomes bromide when it combines with organic contaminants, so if it did "inactivate" the silver it would do so with any bromine. Sodium bromide is added at fill to establish a "reserve" from which your bromine is created by oxidation. That is why you shock to "activate" your bromine. Metal sequesterants will inactivate the silver and copper in a mineral purifier. The majority of the metals released by a mineral purifier are released in the first few days, the rest slowly seep into the water to make up for oxidation. The metals do not dissipate on their own, but will oxidize to a small degree and be filtered out. You need a new mineral purifier any time you refill your spa. I should point out that mineral purifiers are not recognized by CDC or health department regulations and do not permit lower sanitizer levels in public spas. Just as algeacide does not permit lower sanitizer levels in pools.

When testing relay couls you only found one bad. I suspect there is a reason the other isn't closing. Have you jumpered the pressure switch? Take an ohm reading on both sensors.

You don't need cya in a bromine spa. You don't need to be concerned about calcium. Your cheapest oxidizer is liquid chlorine (sodium hypochlorite, bleach).

Sounds like you got it. Keep us posted.

Check voltage between black power and red power into the relays. Then test between each other relay terminal to red power in. Where you lose power is where the problem is. If you don't have power at the power in wires check your terminal bar connections.

No, don't do that. Use them but don't buy more. Or save them for when you are out of town.

Never heard of them, and that is a heat pump not a heater and needs a 60 amp circuit to run. The other guy is selling it because it costs so much to use. Like running two central ac units. Get a gas heater.

Floaters just end up at the skimmer and are no better than your feeder. If you insist on using one, tie it off to something. I would not use it at all. Drain/ gfill at 1200 tds.

2) bromine granules are not bromine, but sodium bromide which must be oxidized (shocked) into bromine. Neither bromine nor sodium bromide is a shock. You must use chlorine or non-chlorine shock (monopersulfate or mps for short) to "activate" your "reserve" (bromide). 3) shock will throw off your readings, wait several hours to test again. 5) bromine slow release tablets are mostly chlorine and serve to convert bromide to bromine slowly. Tablet feeders are bad for your equipment, as they release high concentrations of chemicals that go straight to your pump and heater before mixing with the water in the tub causing increased equipment damage. You can do what they do with frequent additions of chlorine or mps (after each use). 6) if you follow my instructions on 5) you will not need additional shocking unless it goes unused for a week or so.

Post a pic of your circuit board. Remove filter and check again. Check all crimp connectors for damage and check continuity across the jumper wire between the 2 relays. With the bad relay closed manually, check voltage across the relays at the wire connections on the face of the relays. Where you read voltage is the problem relay. It may be the one with the bad coil or not. From your description it should not be the one red phase relay. On those boards, iirc, the first black phase relay and the red phase relay are controlled by the high limit circuit on the board and are always closed (on) when there is not an overheat detected, The one in the middle is the "switch", controlled by the call for heat circuit in the board, which is controlled by the set temp, temp sensor, pressure switch, and pump (it may not close if pump is on high speed). Verify that temp is up, pump is on low, and pressure switch is closed. You can disconnect pressure switch wire and install a jumper wire in the pressure switch wire connectors to bypass it for testing, but do not leave it that way or you risk damage. Let us know the results.

@CanadianSpaTech, I wash my hands of this. You should as well. If he is so knowledgeable he clearly does not need our help. I am not sure why he even bothered to ask. After all, 120v + 120v = 240v. That is all there is to know.🤪

The CDC recommends, the local health department regulates. In the area where I managed a commercial service department (St. Louis Mo) they require 3 times per day. You can do whatever you choose, but I know of one vacation rental in Tahoe (where I lived for several years) that maintained their own spa and was sued for medical expenses and damages from a group who became ill from waterborne pathogens that were traced back to their spa, and had to pay for it. I don't have details beyond that as I heard about it when they were hiring the company I worked for to handle their maintenance afterward. Compared to a lawsuit or regular professional maintenance, automation is cheap over it's lifetime. But it is up to you what cost is too high and what risk is acceptable.

Likely the shaft seal is bad, the pump housing may even be warped. You should see a leak of that size with no trouble.

No, you are not. Test it as I instructed. Last chance.

That is not something I can say. I only know the regulations. You have to make your own determination on what risk you will take and what cost is too high. But standard private maintenance will not suffice for a rental unit in my experience.

Because it is not getting 240v. Math is not the solution. Are you using a volt meter? If so, it has 2 wires that come off of it. I suspect you are not. Get a volt meter and test with one lead on the white wire connection and the other on the black wire connection. I will not say it again. I can only do so much from here. If you will not do as I ask I cannot help you. Get a volt meter! The thing that lights up when you put the tip by a wire is not a volt meter. Google "volt meter" to see what you need. They sell them at every hardware store.

No, that is not 240 volts. And where are you putting your test leads when testing this? The green wire should not be a part of your test. Put one test lead on the white heater wire, and one test lead on the black heater wire. That is all. I do not have time for a lesson on basic electrical theory, just do what I ask if you want my help. I am not going to argue with you about something you clearly have no understanding of.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.recreonics.com/chemtrol-chemical-controllers-pool-equipment-room-universal-remote/&ved=2ahUKEwjX2qCN9O3pAhWPKs0KHRwvCdIQFjAEegQIAxAB&usg=AOvVaw27bY-LUfTaFUHcMigMcRsk

He is a fool. I have worked on many automation systems. There are some that are timer based, but not the commercial units which have both ph and orp sensors. I have worked on hundreds of public pools, hotel pools, and even a half dozen water parks. Trust me, there are smart systems available. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://m.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3D-IQrJFMq-pc&ved=2ahUKEwjQpZXL8-3pAhWMbc0KHTgXDv0QwqsBMAN6BAgKEAM&usg=AOvVaw2dAEwqJUfTc3qckRK7uNYy