rockcandymountain

So, I guess at this point I'll replace the capacitors and hope for the best.

I am not ungrateful for the help that was advised to me. It has gotten me a lot further than had I not come here. So, I would like to proceed with a question or two more. If you choose not to answer it I get it and I will try to find answers somewhere else. Would a weak capacitor make a motor sound like it is spinning up slowly?

The basic task you asked me to do was mute from the beginning. I knew the pump turned. So, attacking my skill, mental ability and knowledge is way off. I have done basic repairs on 10 ton A/C units. replaced inducer motors. blower motors, exhaust motors. I have rebuilt 220 volt deep fryers. Both thermostatic side and High limit switch side. I have built computers for 30 years. I'm in my late 60's and can usually figure out whats up. I replaced the heater in this hot tub. So, when YOU tell me that I cannot follow basic instructions when I already knew what the answer was to "seeing" if the motor was seized. I knew it was not. So, thanks one this sub to the 2 people who have all the answers. Or so it seams

All I am saying is why would anyone empty a hot tub just to cross check some capacitors that are easily removed withOUT draining the tub. You, yourself mentioned to call an electric motor shop. I took pictures that would pretty much tell an electric motor shop technician everything he would need to know in regards to figuring out what capacitor to use. I offered advice and would have offered more but you didn't want to take it. from CanadianSpatech. you told me to check to see if the motor turns. That was your advice. I knew that the motor turned. So I guess I didnt want your advice on that particular test. I'm guessing I gave all the information that various people had asked for. Yet, I'm still baffled why A trained Paid Professional Spa Tech would tell me to empty the tub, remove the motor and take it in for capacitor comparison.

Why would I empty my hot tub and disassemble the entire pump to get a matching capacitor? That's crazy. I wasn't aware that forums, as such, only had one person that can offer advice to those of us looking for help. But thanks for the help, anyway

So, I'm not seeing a lot of plastic cased capacitors. Most of the aluminum cased units have a rolled lip on them that makes them a bit bigger in diameter than the plastic cased ones. Which could make it more difficult to push back into the 'hump' that holds them. Also, while I was removing the humps, the bottom hump has a relay also. Should I leave that alone? It looks like to spade connectors for the relay are down inside the motor case. And I don't know how much excess wire there is to try to pull out to remove/replace the relay.

The #15 is 2 3/4 in by 1 3/4 dia. The 30 is 3 3/4 by 1 3/4. dia. Gonna see what Grainger has that matches/

So here are the capacitors, they dont look bad, but who knows. Not sure what number to research a replacement by. I tried the one with M30 no luck.

So, should I just go ahead and replace both of them? I assume once I get the covers off, they will have numbers on them.

So, Can I assume that the label on the pump will indicate if it is a 2 speed pump? Also there are two 'humps' on the casing of the motor. Would those house the capacitors? If so I'm hoping its only a screw or 2 that holds them in. So I am off to do some exploring. Note to self, capacitors do hold a charge, so be careful. and also turn power off. I"m back with pictures. So are the capacitors under those humps? The model number on the motor is 5KCP49UN9089X

These are pictures of the circulation pump and the control panel. I had used the tub last night and when I was done, I turned it down to 95. I usually have it at 102 for use. This morning when I took these photos, I raised the temp above what the current temp of the water was and the circulation pump started up just fine. I did that twice, without issues. Yet, there are times when I go to the tub, lift the lid and check the display and it says dy or dr, which is about water supply at the heater. So, at this point I am not convinced that the circulation up has a problem. I don't see any relays in the control panel, so I have no idea which way to proceed. Any ideas? I

Well, the more variety of error codes I'm seeing leads me to believe it has to be the motor, pump assembly. I had been turning it down 10 degrees during periods when I know I wont be using it for a few days. Today when I raised the temp, the pump motor didn't come on, but it hummed. After i turned on the jets and tried the pump again it came right on and stayed on til desired temp was achieved. Then the tub sat for an hour or so and when I went to use it, It had error dr, which indicates inadequate water detected in heater. I had to do the same thing, start jets, then start pump. The person who asked for pictures, I will get them put on here this week.

So, today I went out to check the temp and I had an HH error which indicates an extremely high temp at the heater. So, I adjusted the temp 1 degree to see if the circulation pump would come on. The motor hummed but did not turn the pump. So, I then started the other motor which controls jets and "options" which I think is air bubbles. Once that pump came on a I shut it off and then I tried the circulation pump and it ran fine. I would think with a motor of 5 HP, that a starting capacitor may be part of the electronics. Since I have already replaced the skirting, I will see how it operates for a few days. If it continues to act up, then its probably time to replace the circulation motor/pump assembly. But I think a DIY person could do it. Rule #1 turn off power at the service panel.

So, after I opened up the skirting to expose the motor(s) I started pushing buttons on the control panel. There are 4 buttons: Temp, Light, Jets, Options. When pushing either the Jets, or Options button, the motor that is NOT the pump motor will start spinning. So, I then pushed the temp button. That made the water pump motor start working. So, for now it appears to be working. The water temp did drop quite a bit so I will continue to monitor it to see if it gets back up to operating temp. But, looking that the pump motor , the replacement of it shouldn't be too hard. I put a new heater in it last year. The tub is a 2007 so it has served me well.

So, I think I have diagnosed the issue. I believe the main pump is not turning. When I push on any of the control panel buttons to clear the code, I hear what sounds to me like a mumming motor. Which makes me wonder if the impeller is broken. With the hum, I would think the motor (could) still be good. I will open up the cabinet and get a number off of the pump and then hopefully I can get a replacement. Does anyone know whether the motor/pump assembly is all one piece or can they be bought seperate?