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RDspaguy

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Everything posted by RDspaguy

  1. RDspaguy
    I see a couple of stickers inside there but can't read them. Does either have a name of the manufacturer? @CanadianSpaTech, do you recognize this control? I am drawing a blank. I am thinking ACC or SpaBuilders, but can't place it.
  2. RDspaguy
    Also, to the left of the control box the pipe from the heater ends in what we call a manifold that has some smaller hoses coming off of it. How many hoses are coming off of it, I can't tell from the pic?
  3. RDspaguy
    Preset, in most cases, just means they adjusted the dial where they expect it to need to be. You could have changed it by accident while screwing it in. I have to adjust it about half the time I install one, and I know what to watch out for. And new parts can be bad. A pressure switch uses a rubber diaphragm to activate a push-button. If it is old or has a manufacturing defect it can seep a little water past the diaphragm and short the switch leading to a closed reading all the time. When the circulation pump is off and you press jet 1 does it turn the circulation pump on low, then go to high when you press it again? Or does the circulation pump remain off and a different pump come on? Either way is possible, and drastically changes the likely cause of your error. You should be able to see and feel the pump shaft move between the black plastic part that the pipes connect to and the motor. Check it out. You may also be able to hear the location of the jet pumps when running by walking around the spa. Can you post a pic of the pump behind the control box?
  4. RDspaguy
    Bromine does not need or is affected by cya. Sodium bromide cannot be tested as it is not an oxidizer in that form and can only be tested once converted into bromine, which is done with oxidation (shocking). Dichlor is an oxidizer so is there with the sodium bromide to oxidize it into bromine. If you buy it separately you will need to oxidize separately. Best to try a little at a time to figure out your needs. Here is a great article from Taylor (test kit manufacturer) on the subject. https://taylortechnologies.com/en/page/123/whats-best-for-a-spa-chlorine-or-bromine
  5. RDspaguy
    Your video won't load for me. I am on my cell phone, so maybe that's it. It sounds like, and looks like, your primary pump is a two speed that runs low automatically for heat and filtration and flows through half of the jets. When the pump is on the computer looks for a closed pressure switch, and when it turns off it looks for an open pressure switch. If it does not find what it is looking for in either case you get a flo error. Since the flo error occurs when the pump turns off, that suggests the pressure switch is temaining closed when it should open. When you press the jet button it again looks for a closed switch and finds it so it works again. Your pressure switch likely has a small adjustment ring on it that is easily moved during installation. I would check that first. To verify you can trick the computer by unplugging the pressure switch when the pump turns off. On the top of your circuit board are 3 gray wires that plug in to the board using 2 plugs. The wire on the smaller plug all by itself is the pressure switch. When the pump turns off, unplug it. If the flo error goes away it is the switch or wire. If it remains it is the board.
  6. RDspaguy
    Canadaguy uses beer in his hot tub. Saves trips to the fridge.🤣
  7. RDspaguy
    That is not how a balboa system works my friend. We need you to be clear and accurate with your info or we can't help you. We can only do so much from here. So, the pump behind the control box runs non-stop and never turns off (24/7)? And when you press jets 1 water comes out of the same jets in the tub as when you press jets 2? Or is jet 1 the one behind the control box and it has 2 speeds and low comes on all by itself whenever it needs to geat or filter, and feeds half the jets in the spa while jet 2 feeds the other half?
  8. RDspaguy
    Ok. Open the box with 2002 LX on it and post a pic of the circuit board. It will help me identify it. Unfortunately several manufacturers use the LX designation.
  9. RDspaguy
    You don't need to mess with jumper settings. Canadaguy thought you got a different topside not just a new overlay.
  10. RDspaguy
    You are giving us some confusing information. A 24/7 circulation pump dies not turn off and is not controllable from the topside. You have 2 "jet" buttons and when you press jet 2 a pump runs. Your pic only shows one pump. Is it jet 1, 2 speed that runs low speed for filtration and heating? And you get a flo error when it shuts off. It sounds like your pressure switch circuit is closed when it should be open. Likely your new switch needs adjustment, but it could be chewed wires, water leaking on it, a faulty new switch, or a circuit board issue.
  11. RDspaguy
    Ok. I would like to help but I don't have a great deal of gas heater experience, so I would just be guessing.
  12. RDspaguy
    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.jandy.com/-/media/zodiac/global/downloads/l/l0747.pdf%3Fforce%3D1&ved=2ahUKEwj4vcCG7_PpAhU4SzABHUyxCNUQFjAIegQICBAB&usg=AOvVaw3_oqyi_NlRrHlJ4gFP7fYx Maybe this will help.
  13. RDspaguy
    👍
  14. RDspaguy
    The controller is just buttons and a display. All logic occurs in the circuit board. It turns the heater off when in high speed due to amp draw. That board is not set up for a high amp rating and the heater and high speed pump combined would exceed it's amp rating. Keep us posted.
  15. RDspaguy
    What parts have been replaced?
  16. RDspaguy
    Post a pic of the control panel and the control box, maybe we can figure it out.
  17. RDspaguy
    Ok. Wrong chart. But either way, your sensors are close enough. They shouldn't be a problem, but something is keeping that other relay from closing if the coil tested good. Worth replacing the relays to be sure, but I am thinking you have another issue. @CanadianSpaTech, your thoughts?
  18. RDspaguy
    I would get a new pressure switch. That is an on/off and should be zero or infinite. But you jumpered it with no change so I guess it is doing the job. https://spacare.com/balboasensorresistancevalues.aspx What temp was your water? Those readings are about a half degree out, which should not be a problem. According to the chart your water is around 70*f. But you said before it was up to 89*. What does it show on the display? Do you have another means of checking it (kitchen meat thermometer)? This might not be the right chart, being for the newer style systems.
  19. RDspaguy
    Your spa has a pressure switch (which is not a relay but does have contacts), a temp sensor (likely mounted in the spa wall or pump suction pipe) and a high limit sensor (mounted to the heater in the metal tab). They are the wires that plug in to your circuit board with the brown connectors. The two prong plug is the pressure switch, the four prong is both sensors. You have several corrosion spots on the back of the circuit board. Clean those off lightly with a wire brush.
  20. RDspaguy
    I am one of a handful who respond to the many posts on this forum. We have different people who know about different things. You happen to be posting about things I know. @CanadianSpaTech is another repair expert on spas, @Cusser is a chemist and longtime spa owner, @dlleno has spent way to much time using his hot tub as a chemistry lab, @castletonia is our hot springs guru, @Ahhsomeguy is a chemical manufacturer rep I believe, @ratchett spends all his spare time researching spas from what I can tell. There are a few others I have missed who pipe up from time to time. Good bunch of people. I am just mostly retired and have no life so have more time to answer questions on this forum.😉
  21. RDspaguy
    How many suctions are in the footwell? I only see one. Where is the second pump? Is the dirty hose with wires in it your power into the spa? What is the voltage and amp rating of the breaker? Is it a gfci breaker?
  22. RDspaguy
    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.b2epc.com/publications/OzoneSystemsNewsletter.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjlr8GvxfLpAhWEdc0KHfvBDMEQFjAMegQICRAB&usg=AOvVaw3Ox9JNUa2VSw3SLhhH0PwH Believe who you want. I choose scientists over parts salesmen. Good luck to you Susan. I have given you my advice, you can take it or leave it as you choose.
  23. RDspaguy
    It shouldn't, but we don't know what might be happening as you refuse to POST A PIC OF YOUR EQUIPMENT as twice requested.
  24. RDspaguy
    An ozonators lifespan is measured in hours not years. And there are many to choose from. Ozone is a powerful oxidizer, much more so than any chemical used in spas, and must be kept in the water for at least 30 seconds to allow it to convert back to oxygen, as this is when the oxidation occurs. If your spa is not plumbed to do this you are just releasing ozone under your cover which does little for your water but destroys your cover, pillows, valves, topside, etc... If it wasn't designed for ozone don't put one in unless you are prepared for a plumbing job.
  25. RDspaguy
    Yes, a little high there. Being perfectly level is crucial with that type of pool. It may be that other areas heve settled a bit but that one is solid for some reason (big rock underground).
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