CanadianSpaTech

Not a Hot Springs guy but some spas have a ball valve located inside the cabinet just under the waterfall. Waterfalls are such a useless feature and usually cause more trouble then pleasure. JMO

Might want to post this in the inflatable section of this forum... https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/forum/28-inflatable-hot-tubs/

No such thing...lol. I was just being lazy. You said what needed to be said. More of a wine drinker...lol

Please start your own thread and post the pics

Free hot tubs are never free

They can be opened up. The hardest part is getting the female pump connections through the housing to get the board out. They will come out with the board (see video below). If you can get the board out have a look at the capacitors and see if any are bulging. Look on the back for darkened or burnt areas. See post by Sebast about capacitors... https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/53524-gecko-inxe-spa-pack-stuck-in-boot-up-low-voltage-power-supply/#comment-208142 Verify that you have correct power coming into the board. 120V white to black 120 white to red and 240v red to black. If you have correct power then the issue is likely down stream of that... Board or topside. Look at the capacitor to see if it is damaged and not sending correct power to the topside. Did Gecko verify that the topside is compatible? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mIhCsvuqCpc Where are you located?

Unless you are going to blow out all the lines and Winterize the spa not a good idea. A full tub will take longer to freeze. Up to you but I use small space heaters all the time while waiting for parts. They are tip proof and thermostatically controlled. Usually in some tight places. They will only run when needed once it is warm in there. Again only need a med low to low setting. Enough to keep the chill out. Use on 750V setting. Hopefully you can get it figured out.

Small space heater inside the cabinet on med low will keep it from freezing and cracking plumbing. Please do not work beyond your capabilities. If you are unsure at anytime please call a professional. In the left hand side of where the power wires connect to the board do you get 120V white to red, 120V white to black? do you get 240V red to black?. If you do then same test on the other side of that same connection on the right side to test for power coming out of that block. Power in left power out right side to make sure the incoming wires are connected and making proper contact. Follow the red and black at the Philips screws where the wires connect to the "fingers" of the circuit board at top of photo Test the red and black wire coming from the main power block. Do you get 240v? Then test the second (yellow) set of screws. Basically follow the power. If you get this far you have confirmed power to the board. Try and disconnect (power off) the topside phone jack from the board and see if it will run automated without the topside connected. At this point you might want to pull the board and look on the back for darkened or burnt areas on the back. Post results

@ 15 years I'm replacing it.

First get a small space heater inside on med low to keep the chill out. Do you have a multi meter to test for power where the power wires connect to the board. Of you have power going to the pack test all glass fuses. Take them out of the holder to test. Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover.

Power off.. Try and disconnect the topside from the board and see if it will run automated Does the spa have a heater? Some don't. While you have the spa pack open look for any obvious damage to the board Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover so we can see what you have. Might have to get a small space heater in there on low just to keep the chill out if the temp gets lower.

Personally I'm buying a new one. Heaters are a wear item and that one looks pretty worn. How old is it?

First post photos of the board and the schematic on the inside cover. Remove filters. Next disconnect pump 2 from the board and see if it will run and heat. Use a multi meter and with #2 pump disconnected test for power going to the pump off the board when you engage pump 2. Test where the white and black wires connect. If you get power off the board then power down and reconnect. If it trips you likely have a bad pump. If it still trips with pump 2 disconnected then start eliminating the other components in the spa one at a time until the breaker holds. Post pics and results.

Post photos of the current board and how it is wired.

Where are you located? It can be repaired... I use a local Electronics repair guy. As for why... If the incoming power copper strand wires (or even worse aluminum strand) are not tightened enough to compress the stands it can come loose over time and arc leading to meltdown. I often have electricians (and homeowners) tighten the screws with their cordless drill and not go back over each screw (2x) and tighten by hand. They gotta be tight.

Have not seen that pump before but looks like it would work.

Try this first. https://hottubchemicals.ca/products/spaboss-ultra-spa Unlikely an option

Disconnect the heater from the board and test for 240V coming off the board when the heat indicator light is lit on the topside. If you gat 240V you likely have a bad heater element. Test the 2 wires for continuity. If you don't then it's a board issue and likely a blown relay. Relays can be replaced fairly cheap. I normally have my electronics repair guy replace all the relays while it is out.

Post photos of the circuit board so we can see.

Looks like a compression fit jet body. Starting to see these more and more and can see they will be problems going forward. Have not found available parts yet... but have not searched very hard. My way to go.... Remove the jet from the jet body. Marine grade silicone bead around the jet body and the acrylic where the o-ring gasket sits. Create a barrier and see if it holds. If no it looks like the jet body can be pushed forward into the bather area. Not cutting the plumbing lines. If you can push it forward far enough to get at the gasket o-ring you could replace the gasket if you can find one or... take a second shot at silicone and use the same gasket. The blue Loctite type stuff is glue and you won't get the hose off the jet body without cutting it and reattaching it once the repair has been made. Hopefully they left enough spare 3/4" hose to reach back to the jet body again. Glue I use: https://www.amazon.com/Weldon-10850-Medium-Bodied-Professional-Industrial-Grade/dp/B009YA250U

Regular 50 inside panel and 50 amp GFCI out by the spa. In view of the spa but no closer than 10' to the spa (check your local regs.) You should not be able to reach the GFCI from inside the spa bather area. You could put the GFCI in the panel and have a pull type disconnect outside but I find that those pull disconnects will sometimes trip the GFCI when pulled and if you don't have access to the inside you pack up your tools and go to the next job... ie Home...lol Solid advice How many amp does this draw? Don't max out the sub panel

If you are talking about TB1 where the incoming power wires connect to the board the white wire goes into #4. #4 is at the top, Then an open #1 then #2 red and finally #3 black at the bottom. FYI...Group #4 is just above where the incoming wires connect (J45), Group 2,3 are below it. Think you are a bit confused and thinking where the incoming wires connect to the board (TB1) are a "Group" They are not considered a "Group". Again Group #4 is above those incoming wire connections (J45 to J79 and for 120V) Group # 2 is below the incoming power wires J1 to J72 and is for 240V components. There should only be white wires connected at Group # 2.

Group 4 is for 120V components. If say you had a 120v ozone installed in the spa on most packs you would move the white wire from Group 2 up to group 4. Group 2 is for 240V components. So if you have any components that are 120V in the spa they won't work with this pack. I have never noticed or seen that a BP7 pack is 240V only. Odd they have dotted lines denoting 120V set up on the schematic.

Ouch... That's worse then Edmonton...lol. Good Luck in your search.

Where are you located?