Rufnek100

I'm bringing my older spa (2008 Dynasty) back to life and after working out the spa pack issues and a bit of replumbing I'm finding my LED lights are not functioning. After troubleshooting it looks like the light controller box has gone out and no surprise, after some internet searching I'm pretty sure it's obsolete. The controller box is a J&J Electronics 5-50-2D. I've been looking for information on the company so I can speak to someone about a current replacement model but I can't find anything anywhere. It looks like they're now part of Halco Lighting but there is no website or anything at all refencing that product line. There are still plenty of J&J products available (mostly pool lights) so it appears they're still being manufactured. Does anyone have some insight on where to find information on their products?

So an update, but still no solution. The spa pack woke up without the in.therm heater unit plugged in. I attempted to put it into learning mode and while it started a scan, I promptly got the RH-NC error. Which makes sense because the heater was not plugged in, but at least it told me the heater was the problem. Consequently, testing this by plugging the heater back in would immediately make the spa pack go unresponsive upon power up. The topside keypad was definitely bad as well. Ordered replacement in.therm heater and in.k600 keypad and installed. Now I'm getting the SP-IN error, which is insufficient voltage. Strange to say the least, L1 to N & G is 123V, L2 to N & G is 124V, and L1 to L2 is as expected, 246V. I tried bypassing the underground line between the box and the spa by temporarily running an external cable straight to the spa pack and using a non-GFCI breaker, but still got the SP-IN error. I even physically traced the line from the main circuit breaker box in the attic to the outside breaker box and there is nothing amiss there either. The connections in the main breaker box are all correct and tight as well. I've seen a couple of other, older threads with this same problem but it doesn't look like any solutions were ever posted. My next step is to ditch the obsolete in.xm system and upgrade to the in.yt-7, which is going to take some re-wiring and re-plumbing. It's either that or discard the whole spa, which seems like a real shame since most everything else is in pretty decent shape and a new spa is cost prohibitive at this point. I came across a seller on eBay that has been extremely knowledgeable and super helpful, but figured I'd try one more time on here for any thoughts from the collective knowledge base. Thanks!

@skyhenge were you able to get yours back going and if so what was the issue?

Update - I removed the circuit board, pretty easy actually. I can't see any obvious scorch marks anywhere on the board and the capacitors aren't swollen or have bulging tops. I'm still at a loss, I suppose the next step is to de solder the capacitors and test since I don't have an in-circuit tester, just a regular multimeter. I am getting voltage at the power supply and 13 volts at each of the transformer output leads. The transformer specs aren't anywhere to be found on the unit, so I have no idea if that's correct.

Thanks so much for the response @CanadianSpaTech, I'll get it open and check it out and report back. The pack in the video looks like the in.xe, not the in.xm I have - but I see what you're saying about the in.link connector receptacles, it probably works similarly on mine. I did verify the voltage coming into the board and it's correct. I'll check out the capacitors and see if they're damaged. The tech did say the topsides are compatible - he said the only difference may be some missing functions but that the basic operation (pumps, thermostats, etc) would still work as they're supposed to. When I told him about the faint / missing screen on the keypad he said that the keypad could actually be fine but the control pack may be giving it bad / weak signals, making it not work correctly. I'm located in south Louisiana. More to come.

Update - I was able to get on the phone with Gecko support. They were very helpful, but we were still unable to get either spa pack going. The tech mentioned that since both packs were behaving in the same manner, the issue could be in the power coming in to the spa pack and that maybe the neutral was going to ground (even though I was getting 120V on L1 to N or G, 120V L2 to N or G, and 240V L1 / L2). After de-energizing, I opened up the circuit box and found a very large mud wasp nest behind the front cover. Unfortunately, after thoroughly cleaning everything out and re-energizing the panel, the spa packs are still unresponsive. The tech suggested to bench test the pack using a known "good" outlet and that the pack should at least power up with 120V supply to L1 and N. Still nothing on either pack. Could a neutral going to ground (assuming the wasp nest caused this condition) cause the spa packs to be damaged? To make matters worse, Gecko discontinued the in.xm packs about a year ago and they are no longer available. Does anyone repair these? The tech informed me that they are sealed units and not designed to be opened up or serviced. Also, has anyone ever retrofitted from one of these to a newer control pack, say the Y series or a Balboa? From reading the tech books it looks like converting over from the in.link cables would require a whole rewiring of the pumps, etc. using AMP style connectors. I hate to junk the whole spa, but I'm just about at wits end, all because of a control pack. I'm really hoping a resident Gecko expert can give me some steer here, thanks!

I have a circa 2011 Dynasty Neptune spa that isn't working. The keypad is in.k600 (1st gen with the --> (next) button, not the 2nd gen with the power button). The spa originally came with an in.xm spa pack. I had replaced the in.k600 a few years ago due to the spa overfilling and ruining the original in.k600. Everything was working fine, but I went through a period where I couldn't use the spa and left it alone with the power off for about a year. Being able to use it again, I recently cleaned and refilled the spa. Now everything has gone haywire. The in.k600 was very faint and showing the wrench icon indicating the hot tub needed maintenance. Then the in.k600 went completely blank. There were no errors showing on the in.xm. I checked the fuses and they are good. Also getting proper line voltage into the spa pack. At that point the user interface on the in.xm1 was unresponsive. I couldn't get it into the breaker settings or LL settings at all. Power to it but nothing. I had purchased an in.xm2 as a spare back when I replaced the in.k600, so I swapped out the old in.xm with the in.xm2. When I powered it up, the user interface flashed "LL" for a few moments, but was unresponsive to any input when pressing the select or change button. Holding the select button down to enter the configuration mode also did nothing. Now it is completely unresponsive as well. Basically, the new in.xm2 is behaving in the same manner as the original in.xm unit, which leads me to believe it is another issue. Could a faulty in.k600 be causing the spa pack to malfunction in this manner? Also, I've noticed that some of the parts supply outlets note that the 2nd gen in.k600 (with the power button in lieu of the next button) are not a replacement and will not work (not sure about in.xm vs in.xm2 compatibility). Unfortunately, the 1st gen in.k600 is discontinued and not in stock anywhere any longer. However, the current gen in.k800 techbook says its compatible with the in.xm2, should this be the replacement keypad, assuming the keypad is the issue (and it will fit dimensionally)? I contacted Gecko tech support and their reply email was basically a regurgitation of the techbook procedure on how to set the LL configuration, not helpful at all. Any feedback on this is greatly appreciated.