Beelzy

First, copper algaecides are NOT a good idea. Copper stains pools and turns hair green! Also copper does not leave your pool. If you add copper and it tests as not being there it means it has deposited as stain. This copper CAN redissolve under the right conditions and your copper levels can rise very high if you have been adding copper based algaecides on a regular basis. Weekly shocking is not necessary IF you are maintaining your free chlorine levels properly. You really only need to "shock" if your combined chlorine is above .5 ppm! Also, shock is a verb, not a noun. It is something you do to a pool, not a special type of chlorine or product. Calcium hypochlorite is an unstabilized chlorine that is used for both shocking and for daily chlorination. Its main drawback is that for every 10 ppm FC added you are also increasing your calcium hardness by about 7 ppm. IF you are going to use an algaecide (and realize they are more of an inhibitor to help slow down algae growth and not an algae killer. Chlorine is what kills algae (well copper does also but it has too many negatives associated with its use). The only algaecides that I would suggest is either polyquat (which is not cheap but it does not have a lot of negative side effects) or adding borates to 50 ppm which, besides deterring algae growth, also help stabilize your pH by adding a secondary boric acid/borate buffer to your water in addition to the carbonic acid/bicarbonate buffer we call Total Alkalinity. He blinded me with Science! LOL! (The bit about shock being a verb and not a noun should probably be best directed to HTH or Aqau-Chem) ;-)

Unless the pool is right next to that equipment setup, that motor is TOO SMALL for that old Bronze pump. I'll even wager that there is still a 1.0 or 1.5 hp impellar on the end of the motor shaft too!

The problem was probably the $20.00 turbine bearings that are unnaturally prone to fail. If you still have the old parts, look at the inside of the turbine bearings for the keyway that keeps the bearing from spinning on the turbine, I'll bet there is none because it got spun out.

Try cleaning the filter or completely removing the filter and run without the element and try the heater again. Most failures in pool heaters are due to inadequate water flow caused by dirty/old filter elements.

Maybe the pump is undersized, or the impeller in it is plugged with debris?? What can you tell us about the pump?

Try adding Calcium Hypochlorite (Shock) on a weekly basis as the weather warms, save the algaecide for later if the algae persists. If you do end up needing the algaecide, get one with copper as the main ingredient. On a side note, make sure the filter is working properly and isn't letting anything back into the pool.

Or, the water level may be too high.

Light niches are usually embedded into the surrounding concrete......no easy way to remove without demolishing.

Put the DE back into the filter(5 'weight' pounds).....after re-cleaning it. If you want to know for sure if the filter is the cause of the issue, take the grid assy. out of the tank and run it without it. I'll bet the pressure is lower, and consistent. Did you ever get around to checking that ancient Salt Cell to see if that could be partially plugged?

Too much Horsepower for that application.....also pop that Salt Cell out and check it, if it's clogged up it will raise the pressure also.

The GFCI if present is usually located on a sub-panel by the pool equipment or in the Main breaker box. Almost all of the pools I have seen that were as old as yours did not have one though.

Make sure to add the correct amount of DE back into the filter or you will have the same issues.

The leak is most likely at the skimmer, where the tile meets the plastic part of the skimmer. Even a hairline crack there will cause the leak the OP mentioned. Especially if there is already some form of shifting in that area. A little epoxy putty and 10 minutes will remedy the problem.

Wow, looking at the pic there is a LOT of plumbing after the pump. The Sta-Rite did better because it had a better Pump Curve.(IMO) Given the situation that Whisper-Flo is doing as good as it can. The only way to get more flow (I wouldn't worry myself) would be to clean up the plumbing or put a Sta-Rite V.S. in.

Century motors burn up those Caps all the time. It should run $15-20.00 at a motor shop. Not too many Pool stores keep those around anymore. There is no switch in the newer Century motors so don't worry about cleaning anything else. I would keep an eye on that motor though, as that's a nasty Blowout on that Capacitor.

If the sweep in the pool is a Polaris or Letro sweep, the Pressure relief valve at the wall fitting may have broken. The result would be a sluggish sweep, and the noise at the pump would be due to no Back Pressure on it.

It may be fine, for a while.....but those corners will eventually pull out. Nobody in my neck can measure for a liner, and I see this all the time.

Be careful not to run that chlorine level too high, you could wind up with metal staining.

This is a good place to start, as even if the filter is not the problem it is necessary to start with a clean filter. You also might check to see if there is a By-Pass valve near the heater headers that may be out of adjustment. Sometimes an inadvertent movement of said valve could be diverting too much water and making the heater malfunction.

For that dough, the OP could have a nice steel wall pool sunk in the ground with a deck, and if and when the liner needs to be replaced it won't take a mortgage Re-Fi to do it. (Fox liners like to leak at the step area when they do leak) Liner pools are fine, I had one for a while......Fox pools are just too much for what you get IMO. The nice thing though, is if one doesn't want to endure a liner replacement, they can be re-finished with fiberglass.

I would make sure to explore other options thoroughly before deciding on a Fox Pool. Liner pools such as those get holes for one, and fitting the pool with a sweep/cleaner that delivers more than mediocre performance is quite a challenge. IMO

Forget about the complicated epoxy paint. A lot of extra work and it won't last much longer then the easier to use Acrylic paints which are water cleanup. The paint (any type) is only a temporary fix but it will provide a few years service life before it needs to be repainted. Or better yet, re-surfaced. Good Luck!

Try Borax.

Congrats on the Hayward.....Don't run it too fast as the bearing/turbine set will wear out prematurely.

What so special about NY?? UPS still ships there don't they? Pool Plaza has them.........................$999.00