polyvue

Probably a Polaris 280 or 380, then. I have the 280 model. They're finicky about pressure -- you may have to install (or uninstall) the red or blue reducer at the pool wall fitting. There are instructions about how to check for wheel revolutions at the beginning of the manual (see pages 3-5) http://i.poolproduct.../Polaris280.pdf Be sure both main filter pump and booster pump are operating. Beyond this, there are lots of little things that can affect performance. The wheel revolutions should tell you if the pressure is right but check to be sure all of the wheels (3) are turning together. If the front axel is too loose there's slippage; too tight, it won't turn. Check the jet stream that comes out the rear. Adjust the direction of the jet so that it's at about 11:00 O'Clock -- subtle changes to the direction will make a big difference.

A few questions: What brand/model of sweeper? Is it run off a booster pump or is the sweeper fed only by the main circulation pump? How long does it run before stopping and what do you do to restart it? What is the pressure at your filter (PSI)? What did the pool company's service techs say about this?

Though I'm not an expert in solar equipment configurations I do know that you will want to estimate the head for this add-on solar system. How many solar panels and what size? Is the 200 ft run on even ground or does it run up a hill? How big is the pipe (ID 2", 2.5"... 3")? What elevation are the panels (how many feet above equipment grade)? Is your current 2 HP pump under, over or right-sized for your pool? etc

I'm trying to understand why the pool filter didn't catch (and hold) the pollen.... My cartridge filter doesn't let anything through that's visible to the naked eye. Have you inspected the filter?

There are some key pieces of information missing: When you state that chlorine = .5 do you mean Free Chlorine (FC) or Total Chlorine (TC) or something else? Also, what is the level of CYanuric Acid (CYA)? The latter is important because if you're using Trichlor tabs or powder as a chlorine source the pool may already have so much CYA (it's compounded with the chlorine in TriChlor and DiChlor products) that your weekly shock regimen is no longer effective. These short articles may prove useful in determining whether your current process fits best practices: http://www.troublefr...s_chlorine_pool http://www.troublefr...cking_your_pool How do you know when to shock? If the pool is clear (rain or no rain) and there is less than 1 ppm Combined Chlorine (CC or chloramines) as determined by testing (a FAS-DPD chlorine test is easier and much more accurate than test strips) and your FC (Free Chlorine) has not dropped precipitously, there is no need. Though it's tempting to rely on instructions found on shock or chlorinating tablet packages they can't anticipate the pool's current chemistry; that's why procuring and using a high-quality residential test kit (Taylor K-2006, for instance) is paramount.

Your chemistry instructor might not have appreciated you dumping 20,000 gallons of water down the lab sink, either! heh heh.

Your answers in many areas of pool maintenance are so good I hesitate to object to this one, but I think that your presumption that FC and TC will be the same in an outdoor pool doesn't fully reflect my experience or that of others -- most especially of pool owners who struggle with algae or other contaminants that have converted free chlorine to chloramines (Combine Chlorine = CC). The FAS-DPD chlorine test in the K-2006 kit is especially helpful in measuring CCs and their presence is an indicator of a reduced sanitizing and oxidizing capability. Much of my education, such as it is, was from sources at PoolForum.com (currently closed to new members*), this forum and TroubleFreePool. Threads here and at the other forums I've mentioned have informed my opinion that very high levels of CYA (often underreported because of test kit limitations or lack of experience by store personnel and pool owners) can lead to algae outbreaks that are exceedingly difficult to control. EDIT * As of a few days ago, this assertion is no longer true.

Just to pick up on spatech(tuo)'s skeptical take for a moment... I'd sure like to understand a bit more about the "new diamond technology" and its relation to salt water chlorine generation. Testimonials are fine, but what (specifically) makes this particular SWG different?

I know nothing about this spa but the following links may prove helpful in determining model number and obtaining parts: http://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=906 http://www.spasbyleisurebay.com/

I use the Pool Calculator off-line. I just saved the web page to a folder on the computer, then created a desktop icon to bring it up when I want to use it (even without an internet connection.) Works great. In an IE browser you can examine the code by clicking View/Source. Because I'm an unrepentent skeptic and testing fanatic I use multiple CSI calculators (two of these were authored or refined by chem geek) and have adapted one formula for an Excel spreadsheet from the following post. http://www.troublefr...-20.html#p14664 Not sure of copyright terms so won't publish the code here but I will send you adapted version via PM on request. It takes the usual inputs and then calculates the following: Temp. °C extra NaCl CarbAlk Ionicstrength Pool Calc CSI

Microorganisms are evolved to survive so finding niches that are not entirely in contact with the chlorine could be what's happening. I would definitely dismantle, clean and recharge the filter. And afterward, shock to clear any remaining algae. Note that with a CYA of 70 you'll require a high level of chlorine at the beginning and throughout the shocking process. See the following threads. http://www.troublefr...cya_chart_shock http://www.troublefr...cking_your_pool

Thanks for reporting back on the solution to your problem... now I know what can crawl through a small crack in the filter basket. Yech!

A little more info needed. What type of filter (cartridge, DE, sand) does your pool use? Have you checked the PSI (pressure) at the filter? When was the filter last inspected and backwashed (sand/DE) or cleaned (cartridge)? Assume that you're vacuuming via suction hose? Has the filter basket at the pump been emptied? Does it collect the debris as you vacuum?

Has anyone here used the so-called sample-sizer? When I look at the demo pics it appears that once this plunger instrument is seated in the tube, the excess sample solution just dumps out and down its sides (and all over the hand that holds it!) My thought was that in the time it takes to rinse or wipe off the tube's exterior (and my hand) from the overflow I could have already apportioned the sample and lined up the meniscus. And, of course, the sample-sizer can only be used for Taylor's standard round 25 mL tubes. I don't think they have an equivalent tool that fits other sizes and shapes.

Lovely! Paul, thanks for resurrecting the 2008 thread that covers degradation of CYA. I know I'd read this before. Re-reading it also reminded me of yet another possible mechanism contributing to the inexorable rise of pH in some pools and provides a basis (even if provisional) for understanding what happens to CYA. That oxidation of CYA via chlorine is temperature dependent (higher temps leading to a higher rate of oxidation) fits with what I've observed in my own pool.

The pool store probably just observed what you did and guessed that the CYA was "about 100"... not bothering to dilute the sample to ascertain a more accurate reading. You're no doubt aware that a "'mere' ~120ppm" level of CYA is still too high. If it can be reduced to 50 ppm or so -- and kept at this level or lower -- the amount of FC needed to ensure sanitation/oxidation is greatly reduced. I'd rather shoot for a steady 4 ppm FC (consistent with 50 ppm CYA) than the 9 or 10 ppm called for with a CYA level above 100. Figuring out a regimen for your pool that keeps the chlorine at a consistently sufficient level should head off algae before it gets started. Some folks add bleach every day or two (as needed) to keep FC at minimum or higher (http://www.troublefr...cya_chart_shock); other pool owners prefer to automate clorination via SWCG or other types of chlorine injection. So, do some more draining to get the CYA in line and save the TriChlor for use when you're leaving town for a few weeks -- or give it back to the devil.

I think I pay close to or more than $3 a gallon for 6% Clorox (unscented) but my source is the grocery store. Can you afford to start-up with Cal-Hypo without first knowing your Calcium Hardness level? Depending on how much was present in the existing water (and fill) and Total Alkalinity, I'd be nervous about overshooting the target... If CH is already high and TA is already very low, balancing may prove difficult.

Yes, the loss of significant amounts of CYA over the winter seems only to be noted in areas that require closing. The CYA in my unclosed pool showed no diminution for almost 5 months (daily filtering but no swimming.) I seem to recall a thread discussion where this was attributed to ammonia* but can't place it. Also, I have noticed that in summer there is a small but measurable loss in CYA from my SWG chlorinated pool from month to month; it needs occasional replenishment. A certain amount is obviously lost through splash out. But I think the loss is higher than can be explained by this. The only other chemical added regularly is muriatic acid - no bicarbonate of soda, calcium chloride etc., but I'm unaware of any benchmark (standard) to be able to use for comparison. There is little in the way of borates in the pool (< 5 ppm), so my comparative reference is rather weak in that I'm judging its loss relative to the zero demand for bicarb and calcium. The chemistry interactions - for CaCO2 and other compounds - are too daunting for me to be able to conceive of a working theory. * EDIT My memory was foggy. Ammonia is a by-product of one type of decay, but there are several possible mechanisms for degradation of CYA. Two are summarized in the following thread. http://www.troublefreepool.com/degradation-of-cyanuric-acid-cya-t8880.html

Yeah that may be the way to go. I have a 32oz huge jug of the stuff to test CYA. The little ones that came with my Taylor 2006 test kit dont go far. I think the idea of keeping the pucks for when I am on vacation. Right now with the pucks in there, they are releasing chlorine and some CYA, but I bet if those pucks ran out, the chlorine would be gone quickly with no CYA. So how long will the pucks last? I know liquid chlorine loses its effectiveness. Will the hard chlorine pucks last a lot longer? I'll get some stabilizer this weekend and add 1/2 of what pool calculator calls for, then continue with pucks for a bit longer then go to liquid bleach method, same ive been doing for my spa. Much, much longer... perhaps several years if kept sealed and free of humidity/moisture. Anka has given superlative advice and it sounds like you're on the right track. 32 oz of melanine, huh? If your sample size is 7.5 mL that should last a couple of years! I've only seen that size sold at a decent price at Taylor and PoolWeb. Do you have another source?

Hello Mike, Got it. Interesting proposition. I rely on the marks on the graduated cylinder (sample tube) supplied with the tests and try to line up the meniscus (lower portion of c curve observed near the top of a solution) with those marks. Do you think that tweaking the sample volume might produce a significant increase in test result accuracy? Greg

The pump has two speeds high is 3450 RPM and low is 1725 RPM. Being that I don't have a circuit board to control the speed I am assuming that it will be stuck on low. The other pump is the same way. Here is the thing, I don't have the money to buy a smaller pump. If I bought a smaller pump I would need to buy a smaller filter too right? I am going to have to work with what I have so I guess I'll use the 2HP since it is similar in spec to the one that went with the system. Depending on your system specifications (pipe diameter, length of runs, fittings, etc) you might be able to save enough on energy to pay for a smaller pump in a single year. But you're right to go with the smaller of the two pumps if that's your choice. Also, I don't believe there would be any compelling reason to downsize the filter to match the pump - the larger filter should work fine with a smaller pump.

I use a Taylor pH test (midget comparator K-1285-2) whose titrant is dispensed with a type of pipette. The pipettes are available in a number of titrating water tests sold by Taylor and separately for small change (a dollar or two) but I imagine any pharmeceutical supply house carries these and others as well. The pH test's pipette (see link below for photo) can be threaded to a 3/4 oz bottle of titrant. However, I don't much care for them -- you have to be careful in the amount of titrant that is drawn up and be sure it's emptied completely into the sample tube (the 5 and 10 mL square tubes used in the midget comparators are also a bit tricky to work with -- they don't like to stand up on a counter top). Other companies sell higher quality volumetric pipettes but I have no experience with these. http://www.taylortec...mentPartID=2076

If you decide to replace the current setup with a single pump, a variable speed model would make sense -- you'll need the extra push for the waterfall. But you may want to compare the costs both ways. Economically it may make more sense to separately plumb the water feature and the pool and use two single-speed pumps. You'll have finer control and that's good especially if you're not going to be running the waterfall all the time.

Sounds like a plan... but I wonder what happens to that DE when you hose down the deck? In my yard it would go to the street drain (connects directly to river inlet) -- against regulations in this area. (Northern California)