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About CT-Mike

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  1. I am new to the pool scene, but have you thought about all that moisture causing mold/mildew issues in your garage?
  2. So I have tried the search function, and read back through the last 4 pages or so of threads, and couldn't find much info. Basically we are installing a 30' round AGP and I am looking for info on what I need for the electrical feed. It's my understanding that the pool will have to be bonded. Is this done via a ground rod driven near the pool, or does it have to be tied back to panel ground? Do I need to install a convenience outlet near the pump/filter? I will be digging a 18" trench and putting the feed in conduit. Thanks for the help, Mike
  3. I have a 2009 Caldera Cantabria, and last night I used the hose to add some makeup water to the tub. We are on a well so the water coming out of the hose is in the neighborhood of 53 degrees F or so. I went back out a little while later and noticed that the control panel display was showing 4 flashing dashes, "-". None of the controls would work. Reset the breakers at the GFCI panel and the display went through the startup routine, but shortly after it starting flashing again. I cycled the breakers again, then immediately turned on the air pump which seemed to have solved the problem. What
  4. Chemgeek, Any way to tell if the ozonator is working? The tub is new, and there is a stream of small bubbles coming out of the heater outlet port.
  5. Thanks to both for the quick response. So it seems that what I am seeing is normal, and the tub does have an ozonator. Mike
  6. Exactly what Dan said. I also have a Caldera spa, and you insert the small screwdriver at about a 45 degree angle pointed upward and pry gently. That will open up the opening below for you to insert the wires. Remove the screwdriver and it clamps the wire in place.
  7. So two nights ago before bed I tested FC only and it was 0.2ppm. So I added 6 oz's of bleach to my 525g which should have brought FC up to approx. 6ppm. Got home from work last night and tested again first thing, FC was again down in the 0.2ppm range with no one using the tub in the previous 24 hours. I added 5 oz's bleach, FC was at 5ppm. Told the two kids they could go in, they were in for around 45 mins, then the wife and I went in later for about an hour. Tested FC after use, was <1ppm, so this time I added 8 oz's of bleach, left the cover off for 30 minutes for off-gassing, then went
  8. Looking for the math behind the CSI calculation on poolcalculator.com. I have started up an excel spreadsheet to keep track of my results, and would like to add a cell that calculates CSI based on sample results. This will keep me from having to keep going back and forth to poolcalculator.com website. Thanks, Mike
  9. So after a couple of adjustments this morning here is where my water stands: - pH 7.6 - CA 130 - TA 80 - FC 3 - CYA 30 This works out to a CSI of -0.16. I am pretty happy with these results, but I am looking for some input from the chem experts.
  10. Probably the easiest method is to add another circ pump and a water-to-water heat exchanger. That way the two fluids do not come into contact with each other and would cure your contamination issue.
  11. Most likely it will not have a major affect on the sample results. I guess it is just the nerd side of me coming through. I was able to get my hands on a 25 ml pipette, and ordered a manual pipette pump off of eBay for filling it.
  12. Got up this morning and tested the water first thing: pH: > 8.0 CH: 50 TA: 160 FAC: 1.0 CYA: 30 ppm 550 gals, 104 degrees F. This was after about 1.5 hours of use last night. So obviously I need to add bisulfate to get pH down, but should I add some calcium to raise CH as well? I also added borax to approx 50 ppm borates based on the poolcalculator.com results.
  13. Polyvue, I was thinking more along the lines of using a volumetric pipette to deliver a more accurate volume of water to be tested, ie: 10, 25, and 44 ml. Thanks, Mike
  14. Anyone use pipettes for accurate sample results? If so, where is a good source for finding them? Thanks, Mike
  15. You need to get a titration type test kit such as the Taylor K-2006 for chlorine based systems. With this type of test you are using a set sample size, and add a titrant drop by drop until you reach an endpoint (distinct color change). These types of tests are much more accurate than dip strips.
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