jughead

if there are any check valves on the return lines specially swing checks the flaps can sometimes break off and only allow a small amount of water to pass through . its rare but ive seen it 2 times in my days of servicing pools . other than that a valve the wrong way ?

your pressure going up when you turn the solar on is normal . your pushing the water up to the roof and through solar panels . as far as why such a low starting pressure if the pump sounds loud like its cavitating it could have a clogged impellor low pressure indicates a restriction does the pump basket have any cracks in it ? or it could be just a bad pressure gauge

you can put an intelliflo on the filtration pump and save some money but the i would just replace the motor in the jet pump unless its an old brass pump . you only use it when you want jet action it doesnt filter or heat it just moves water . so even with an intelliflo you are going to be running it at high speeds . also title 20 doesnt apply to water features and i have a 3 year old used 2 hp whisperflow pump that would work great as your jet pump so if you ever head toward temecula on a weekend and are interested in it i will give you a good deal on it . also a 2 pump system is the smartest way to go . it allows you to run a low hp pump for filtration and a high hp pump that is not filtered for jets so jet action is never slowed by a dirty filter

yah if you do not have a dedicated line for the cleaner with a vac lock then you connect it to the back hole of the skimmer using the regulator to adjust cuda and skimmer suction . also with suction cleaners the dirt does go to the filter

yah renewed dont take this wrong but i think you should hire a qualified pool man to clean your filter and watch him do it and take notes if you really want to do it yourself . pool men have been killed by tank lids blowing off and hitting them so i cant recommend a homeowner try it without training

yah im dealing with one of these now and facing a simuliar problem except it does not fire up at all and no glowing hot surface ignitor . the only thing i can think is maybe your flame sensor is causing your problem .im not an expert on these heaters but first i would go with flame sensor and then possibly hot surface ignitor . might want to see what the pool clown recommends first though . he seems to know these heaters

thanks i appreciate the help !

cycles threee times then auto gas shutoff blinks . i can hear gas valve click and smell a little gas each time but no burner ignition . i cant remember what the ohm reading on the ignitor is suppose to be i think it is between 50 and 55 but im not positive any one know ? also that glass window that looks like a peep hole for a front door is that a visual for the hot surface ignitor ? if so i seee no glow . also i havnt worked on very many of the lx or lt but plenty of lites so on the lt does the burner tray have to be pulled out to r & r hot surface ignitor ? thanks in advance for advice

probably leaking fron the shaft seal or seal plate o-ring . find a reasonable pool guy to do it i would not recommend you do it your self . and if you let them know what you have ( hayward model ... ) and you think it might be the shaft seal and seal plate o-ring then it might save you money because they can pick up the seals and do the job in one visit . before yopu call the pool guy check and see if the seal plate bolts are not loose .

also if you just cut that actuator wire instead of unplugging it you probably didnt check to see if the actuator was the problem . odds are it was but in the future you should plug in the other actuator ( whether it be suction or return ) that is working into the one that is not to see if it works . if it doesnt then your board could be bad .

i would go with the pentair master temp . very efficient and small dimensions make it an easy fit . it is fan assisted so you will hear a fan when its running but its not that loud . seen to many rp2100 s that either start leaking out the limit switches , pressure switch, or winterizing plug . i admit i have had to change a few thermistor on mastertemps . ive had quite a few customers that have expressed how glad they are that they have the mastertemp now

yah rats love these heaters because they dont get fried when they are fired up . the master temp is the same heater in a different body and seems to keep the big rats out a little better .im an animal lover but i would set traps or poison because they will keep coming back and chew up more wires and cause problems . other than rats liking them they are great heaters

my opinion is cartridge filters suck . d.e. filters are the way to go but if you do switch the clean and clear seems to filter a little better than the system 3

my opinion is the 60 sq ft fns plus with a push / pull back wash valve . way better filtration than any lousy sand filter . also since money is no object have your pool guy clean it every 6 months at least .my opinion is backwashing is a temporary solution to a dirty filter . grids will last longer with less back washing . also the fns plus will be cheaper than the quad . a hayward de filter would be fine also

as to why skimmer and not split anti entrapment main drains might be cheaper and or possibly safer

well the skimmer has to be lower than the spill over if it was higher it would suck air . when system is in pool mode ( if you have a pool spa combo ) that spa suction line is dead headed . when you go into spa mode it will suck from that skimmer you are talking about and your spa will being circulating isolated from pool ( no water going over spill way back to pool )

just trying to get reviews or opinions whether they are good or bad i know there fairly new but ive heard they have been running them in australia for a while . if anyones installed one please let me know how its doing so far . thanks !

heaters working and the problem was the t probe

i talked to pentair this morning and they say its probably the t probe so i will try that on thursday . let to all know how it turns out

went out to try and figure it out this morning and did see an err message no number just err and that says call manufacture so monday i will call pentair . yah its wierd its not calling for heat and soon as i tried to turn the heater on the err went away . i did check the connections and the vacuum tubing and all looks good no rat damage nice and clean . you might be right because i think the fan is supposed to get the ball rolling when the heater starts . i will let you know what pentair has to say . thanks !

yah its set to 104 thanks though

try not to store chlorine to long because it loses its strength as time goes by .thats why you should make sure its fresh when you buy it . make sure tabs are kept dry

not getting any error code . when heater is turned on using the inside controller or in service mode the heater goes from remote to spa but then nothing no fan startup no error code or anything . i hate these heaters ! any of you pool techs have any advise or came across this before ? i know this model was short lived and went through alot of changes in its short life but i have usually had no problem solving the problem intil now . if anyone can help i will consider you a genius

if the motor is froze the impellor wont turn either so i would let the guy you just paid hundreds of dollars to a week ago make the judgment whether to open up that motor and deal with the seal plate o-ring replacement

could be just a lemon but its a warranty issue so i am sure the guy will take care of it . if not find out who is the local pentair rep is and give them the info .there good pumps probably the best in my opinion but ive seen new motors on alot of pumps have defects also might not be the motor could be impellor fused with the defuser but regardless its under warranty . make sure there is no dirt crammed into the motor though before you call them out (joking)