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The only way for that relay to click is for that coil to get 12 VDC now it could be happening intermittently. On the tstat knob turn it all the way off. Then rotate it to all the way up and all the way down. While doing this verify where it is kicking on and off. Keeping rotating it like this about 5 - 6 times. It should always kick on in the same spot and always kick off in the same spot. It sounds to me like the tsat is acting up. 1994 HS spas did have a problem with mechanical tstats. Does your spa have a mechanical or electronic tstat? It has two push on connectors on top. It has a regular bare copper wire that leads to a bulb that slides into the heater... not sure what you are asking for... I did try to read the connector on the t-stat to ground and got 0vdc... but then if it is shorted to ground I guess that is what I would get. Funny you mention the issue of it clicking in the same place every time. It seems to click near the bottom of the range, (h2o temp is currently 70f).. the thing is if I sweep it several times, it may only click once every few sweeps... but it seems to happen at the same point when it does. Should I be able to read 12vdc on the input to the t-stat from the control board? Is the DC ground common with the chassis (ac) ground? (on edit) Ok, I answered this question... I know they would not use the chassis as the DC ground. I just put the meter across the two terminals on top of the t-stat and guess what? I read 17v (control voltage). So I sweep it through the range a few times and find the voltage drops momentarily for a click... but never goes to 0v as it would if the t-stat were turning on. So... looks like a t-stat to me now. Do you agree? Yes t-stat is your prob. When the tstat closes you should have 0 VDC. The mech tstats had a prob in 94 as I mentioned. when you did the sweeping motion with the tstat and noticed it did not click everytime that is due to a faulty tstat.

The only way for that relay to click is for that coil to get 12 VDC now it could be happening intermittently. On the tstat knob turn it all the way off. Then rotate it to all the way up and all the way down. While doing this verify where it is kicking on and off. Keeping rotating it like this about 5 - 6 times. It should always kick on in the same spot and always kick off in the same spot. It sounds to me like the tsat is acting up. 1994 HS spas did have a problem with mechanical tstats. Does your spa have a mechanical or electronic tstat?

You stat you here the relay opening and closing. Verify correct voltage to the coil with the thermostat engaged, the relay you should be testing is the on the heater plug is connected to. the voltage should be 12 VDC. If this is correct test terminals 4 and 8 you should have 110 VAC. If you do not have voltage here follow the hot wire (purple) back to the K1 relay this relay has the circ pump plug attached to it. The purple wire is piggy backed on to it to provide power to the heater relay. If voltage exist between teminals 4 and 8 test terminals 2 and 6 you should have 110 VAC with the tstat engaged. With this information you should be able to determine your problem.

Before replacing the breaker verify all electrical connections are secure. If you have a ozonator I would also inspect that. Make sure the check valve in the ozone line is not bad causing water to back up into the ozone unit. The breaker would be my last suspect. If you have a meter test all components to verify no current is leaking to ground from any of them.

The light can be replaced by itself from the inside of the tub. You unscrew the light cover remove the bulb and replace it. Pretty easy to do.

The Tiger River also has a true heater in it. The dream maker has a water jacket that is on the top of the motor. What this means is heat transfers to the water through the water jacket while the motor is running. If you live in a cold weather state as I do (Michigan) it is possible for this spa to take several days of constant running to reach 104 deg.

It will probably be stuck in the pump. Turn off the power and call the dealer.

Have you tried removing the filters to see if that solves it. Most of the time that is the problem. If it still will not work inspect the motomassage for a bad airline or broken spine.

I just found a dealer for these spas in Grand Rapids, Zagar's Pool and Spa. After talking to these kind folks, it looks like they sell this spa for around 5000 including delivery and everything. I feel SO STUPID for almost falling for that divorce story. Should I buy this unit or is there another hottub for around 5000 that is better? It was nice to see so many responses to my question. Thank you all very much! I have a Maui, the factory is across town. I paid just under $5k all in, incl tax, delivery, startup and cover lifter. (everything but steps). Overall it's probably a B. One pump problem initially (start capacitor- Aquaflo motor), and the check valve on the ozonator stuck. I wouldn't compare it to some of the big $$ lines- in either price or performance. I bought it because it met my pricepoint (I'm not dropping 10G's on a glorified bathtub), and because 4W was the only group in town that didn't have a circus / sleazy sales model. We are enjoying it and don't regret our purchase [for now]. There were some past acrylic problems. Pretty big lawsuit between 4W and the acylic supplier underway. I hope they get that resolved. My feeling at the factory was these were honest, hard working guys making a value-line tub. I'm very interested in the scams and whether there is a factory connection here.. Does the factory directly or indirectly engage in this sales practice? Are they aware of it? Or is this just some rogue salespeople dragging a mfg through the mud? I'm not making a judgement either way- just trying to figure out the ethics of a company I supported. There are many dealers around that u can find a spa for 5k. Be sure to ask the dealer about there service radius also, many of them wont tell you about extra fees outside there service radius. You will typically find anything further than 40 - 50 miles from there store will cost you extra fees. I would recommend purchasing within 30 - 40 miles of your home. This way you can go to the dealer with questions and so on. It is always nice to do face to face business.

I see you live in Michigan. I will not go into details regarding the add because I know this guy. He used to be a factory rep for the company I worked for. But the price of 12k is a MSRP. No different then going to a dealer and looking at X brand spa and the dealer tells you this: The price of this spa is 12k but the factory currently has a 3k rebate, we currently have a special offering a 2k instant rebate and if you can pay in full within 3 days we will give you another 2k off that is a total savings of 7k. Guess what go back in 8 months and you still wont have to spend that 7k. Like the others said it is a sales tactic. If you read these forums you will see what every professional says here. Go to local dealers who sell the brand spa your looking at take a look at it get the price there. Remember your spa will break service after the fact is very important. If there is no one to service it how go was the deal really. BTW after you visit your local fourwinds dealer let me know what you think.

The sensor is mounted in the heater. It is a thermistor. You will need to have a Tech check it. There is a resistance value chart to test the thermistor. But if you have it set to 102 and it heats to 105 my guess would be a bad thermistor. But this needs to be tested to confirm that.

Is that cal spa up and running? If so inspect it all the way around for moisture around the base. As far as your gazebo question it really comes down to what you want. If your looking to have some privacy so people can not look down into the spa when your in it then yes a gazebo is great for that. I personally like the spa out in the open, but that is just me. If there are no problems with the spa your looking at a spa and gazebo for 1K is a smoking hot deal. But if the spa is not filled and running move on and look to something else.

I will tell you that in the rare event this happens to our spas this fee is covered by the manufacture. I am guessing Arctic will not cover this fee. I know this is not really a answer for you sorry for that. Although I am curious as to see how other manufactures handle this.

What are you getting the reading of 105 from? Is it a floating thermometer? It is possible for there to be a 1 degree difference due to calibration, however 3 degrees would be out of range.

I would not by one I could not see up and running. Your asking to buy a money pit.

Sad thing is I have been doing this a long time. I can not count how many times I have found incorrect wiring from electricians, miswired spas and so on. I am going to guess your an electrician.

How did you read the voltage if it is tripping instantly? I would verify correct wiring from the house breaker all the way to the spa. On a new spa with this problem 99% of the time it is a incorrect wiring issue. All gecko packs are tested at the factory. Verify proper placement of the neutral wire from the spa to the subpanel. Contact a licensed electrician if your uncertain about any of this. Keep in mind the money you will pay him will be much cheaper than if you damage that control box.

I have been doing pool and spa repairs for 17 years. This is standard in the industry. Whether it is a complete spa replacement or part replacement, the new item carries the remainder of the warranty. From a consumer side I can understand you think you should get a extended warranty however on the flip side of this you should be glad there are standing behind the product. Many times over the years of doing this I have seen the manufacture do nothing or simply fix the crack which will be seen cosmetically, depending on the surface some more than others. So if I was in your shoes knowing what I know I would be very excited they are going to replace the spa. Look at it this way the manufacture is basically giving you a 15K spa at no charge. That is a smoking deal. Hope it all works out well for you.

Check the ball valves, a bad ball valve will cause this. Also take the fitting off the front of the pump and reapply teflon tape to it. These are the two most common issues. It could be a leak in the line underground on the suction side but this is not as common. If you have a main drain and skimmer on seperate valves close one and run the pool this may help you narrow it down. However keep in mind it the ball valve is bad it will likely still suck in are while running through the ball valve. Inspect the pump lid/strainer housing carefully for cracks or dirt.

Contact your dealer. 9 times out of 10 it is a spa problem. More than likely a heater.

The diagram contained in your pdf is the only diagram that is provided. If your looking for a diagram of the circuit board you will have to contact Sundance directly and see if they can provide that. I have been doing this 18 years and the manufactures do not supply a diagram for PCB circuits.

I am also having problems staying logged in. Seems every time I click a new thread I am logged out and have to log back in. I am seeing this error code if it helps you: [#20310] Your secure key, used to verify you are posting the topic, did not match the one submitted. Please go back, reload the form, and try again.

Just seen this add on craiglist. Sure it wont be up long http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/for/1907626158.html It is for hot tub brokers Inc.

Don't know if you made your decision yet or not. But you will see most pool builders will have some people that are not happy with them. This can be due to the builder or the customer. I would recommend you ask them for a list of there last year installs and call some customers. But you be the one to pick the customers to call. If you let a dealer give you a list of 3 - 5 they will only give u good ones.

That should not be hot to the touch. What year is your bengal. It sounds to me like you have a loose connection somewhere causing resistance which in turn will cause the breaker to get hot.