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Are you seeing steam come from the seam or where the halfs come together? There is no way this should increase your electric by $200. Your temp drop can be affected by several variables such as wind and temp. Is your compartment door vented? If so try covering the vents to keep the heat in and the wind and cold out. I also think you will find it cheaper to keep it at the same temp all the time.

Just keep it all 1.5" and at the heater install the 2" x 1.5" fitting. No sense in spending more money on 2" plumbing since the rest of the pool is 1.5"

This will have to reset by a professional. There is no simple fix for your situation. I would have a company who installs fiberglass pools do this for you.

Do as poolguy suggested. Find a company to come out and open and take good notes. I would have to guess he must be including other things for $650.

If your having to work that hard with your salt system there is something out of balance. You should not be having that much problems. Most often we find the reason people are having a problem is user error due to improper training. Be certain your ph level is at the proper level 7.2 -7.4, keep your CYA at 40ppm, also test your free chlorine and combined (total) chlorine if your combined chlorine is 1ppm or more higher than your free chlorine your pool needs to be shocked. As far as how much it will cost you in tablets there are several variables it is hard to get a accurate cost on this. You might spend $40 a month while your neighbor spends $20. What I can tell you is that the problems you are having will still exist with chlorine tablets until you fix the underlying problem. Oh one more thing you should not be spending $800 plus on replacement cell. What system do you have?

If you are thinking of removing the factory panels that came on it and leaving what is behind them exposed I would not do that. The materials used behind the factory panels are not designed to be exposed to the elements.

It is usually the heater relay board. Disconnect power and inspect the back of the heater relay board for burnt areas. You can also trace it backwards with a meter. The thermistors have a very low failure rate.

Do not put stop leak in your spa...... Is it possible the noise your hearing under the deck it the bubbling from the floor drain / heat return. As far as the leak that you will have to remove some foam to locate . If the equipment compartment is dry then the leak in in the foam.

You can order this online. Just search suction fittings and get the one that measures the size you have. Do not give them $45.00

Have you checked the two red resets on the side of the control box. One is the heater and the other is the spa high limit

You are the man....I had just figured out that the tab was what held it in place....next question I have some of the 5in "American Products Cyclone Jets" you can see a pic of them at this site.. http://discountspaparts.com/asccustompages/products.asp?cartID=&affID=&categoryid=446&navParent=202 I need to replace the swirl jets as they dont work any more but I cant figure out how to get them out...they dont have the tab like the others ones.....any thoughts Turn the cyclone jet counter clockwise continue to turn it even when it catches and it will pop out

More than likely you will be fine. Leave the breaker off for the spa. Open the control box and unplug the connections and blow everything off with compressed air. Depending on outside air temp I would leave it for a day or two then turn the breakers back on.

Did you check the relay on the board it may be stuck closed. With the 24hr circ pump and a stuck relay the spa will just continue to heat up.

Sounds like you have some old bulbs. The original bulbs would allow water in to the socket. This would cause them not to work. If they are the old style bulbs they need to be removed the socket dried out (blown out with air) and the new style installed. How old is your spa btw.

I would not even bother.

For the work you will have to do to plug that jet off you might as well fix it. First off you have to find the leak. This means removing the foam and exposing the plumbing and the back of the motomassage bucket. At this point you are there so might as well fix it. You can not simply plug the jet off. If it is in fact the problem this repair must be done from the back side. If you have a guy willing to repair it for $400 let him do it. That is not a bad price.

Agree..... Trust our advice you will be sorry in the end you messed with it. Don't be Tim the Tool Man

It depends on the model. Easy way to tell how many pump there are is look at the spa pack and see how many cords plug into it. If you could take a photo of the spa pack and post it that would help.

Just to clarify this for you Todd changing the spa to 220v will not make the spa have more power. If you spa is convertible between 110v and 220v the pump is a 110v pump. This will only affect the heating of the unit by making it 220v. The spa is what it is. The spa is designed for the equipment that is in there. If you start changing components i.e. pumps, heaters things of that nature you can most certainly plan on causing a problem.

It sounds like the thermal cutoff switch is tripping. This would cause the pump to shut off after a short time of operation. After the pump (Motor) cools down enough it will reset itself and start up again. It will keep repeating this process. Verify the correct wiring for the spa. If that is correct verify the proper voltage is going to the motor. When the motor stops working check to see if you still have voltage to it. If you do then you have a bad motor.

Generally this happens because the terminals on the heater power cord were not a tight fit. This will cause the wires to heat up and melt the outer coating. It could also be the contactors were worn and not make a good connection which would cause heat. If the heater is still functioning there is no need to replace it. Cut the burnt wire off replace the terminals and you can reuse the heater. Just make sure you push connectors fit tight on the contactor.

I have been servicing spas for 17 years and in this time I have only seen one. I don't if this is because they never break or they are just not that popular. I would have to believe it is just because they are not as popular as other brands. The dealer that is now carrying the bullfrog line what did he carry before that?

Don't know. He said there's no way of calibrating these new digital units - in the old days you could change a variable resistor, but now it's a self-contained computerized unit. I assume he knows his stuff, and he called the factory and spoke to a Hot Springs tech who could not offer anything more than dismissing the issue. I would request him come back. You be home and see for yourself what the resistance value is write it down. When he checks the temp of the water write that down post it here. There are many of us that can tell you if the thermistor value is correct compared to the water temp. Also let me know how he determines the water of your spa. I have to agree with the above poster here. He dont know his stuff. At 101 Degrees those thermistors should have a resistance value of 5.2 - 6k Ohms anything different they need to be replaced.

Sorry to hear that. This is not Hot Springs norm trust me. Did the tech check the resistance of the thermistor based off the actual water temp? Something is out of calibration the thermistor or in the actual IQ.

Ok, THANKS to all who helped me! Next question... it looks like HS has replaced this stat with a 'thermostat kit' that is $100! Now I understand some had problems that lead to this, but mine has worked sing 94 (pretty low failure rate). Can I use another 'mechanical' thermostat (for $26) or do I NEED to $100 conversion kit? You can use a mechanical one as long as the bulb is the same size. The electronic one is just more accurate. But the mechanical one will more than likely last you longer than u need.