castletonia

No idea on Arctic pricing, but you will be better served starting a new thread, not resurrecting a 11 year old one.

To my knowledge everything from 2006 is still available.

It's a valid serial number, 2003 Sumatran. Not sure that really matters though since the Balboa / Hydroquip parts are aftermarket. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't Hydroquip just repackaged Balboa with a longer parts warranty?

PM sent.

2001 Bengal Model M is either 115V 20A plug-in or 230V 50A and if it is wired 230V then it is the 20A/30A breaker setup.

On the display, if the word "power" is constant and the temp is going up, its heating. If "power" is blinking, then you have an issue. The word "ready" will appear once the water temperature is within 2 degrees of the set temperature.

I don't have much experience with those older IQ2020 control packs so I will have to investigate. The newer ones do have an actual summer mode that will shut the circulation pump off for 8 hours a day, but the circuit board should know that and not go into protection mode. As for just shutting the circulation pump off when above temperature, not to my knowledge.

The Relay is a nice hot tub and a good seller for me ( I'm a Hot Spring dealer btw, so I do have bias). Generally speaking all three brands you listed are quality brands and from the looks of it, the Bullfrog X7L and Sundance Peyton would be the comparable models. I can answer any specific questions you have regarding the Relay. My advice is to seek out your local dealers (if you don't have a local dealer, then the brand is not any option for you), research each dealer and decide which hot tub and dealer best meet your needs.

Unless your previous hot tub was a Hot Spring or Caldera, your existing box will not be compatible. The new GFCI box will have two breakers, a 20A and a 30A and now instead of having 4 wires going into your hot tub you will have 6. I would have the electrical done at time of delivery otherwise your electrician probably will need to make two trips, one to install and another to connect.

Does one of the places you had your water tested at use the ALEX software from BioGuard? If so, and if they had the 18 ppm for alkalinity, that is the adjusted total alkalinity. Adjusted total alkalinity is your alkalinity - 1/3 the cyanuric acid level. Adding a bunch of dichlor would cause the cya to rise significantly. No explanation for bottoming out the pH and alkalinity though. As RDspaguy said, just dump and start fresh, not worth fighting water that is closer to a drain/refill than new.

None of the Watkins cover lifts are compatible with the SX. While I have never tried this, maybe the Cover Caddy or Cover RX from Cover Valet could work.

Yes, 1995 Grandee model G

I've never seen or heard of this product before but because it is referencing 2004-2008 Hot Spring and Tiger River I'm guessing it was meant to work with the "PUG" electronics and not the "ORCA" that this Limelight Flair care with. Just to peak my curiosity, would a Balboa pack be able to work with the Hot Spring heater? Or could you even retro it with a M7 heater and that circulation pump?

Company I worked for years ago dropped Cal Spas for that same reason. Warranty wasn't worth the paper it was printed on.

Only option is to either find a used control panel or upgrade the electronics. $2k is a high estimate. I would expect parts to be around $1,000 and then whatever labor and service call fees your dealer would charge.

I'm in Wisconsin with a Hot Spring SX running 120V. When I did my last drain/refill in late November, it took almost 36 hours to heat from 47 degrees up to 104. If I was running 240V then it would probably have taken 8-10 hours. I keep my hot tub at 104 in the winter. I use my hot tub daily for between 25-35 minutes. I am shielded from the wind from the south and west but exposed from the north and east. My coldest soak has been in -5 with winds between 5-10 mph. I started at 105 and after 30 minutes I was at 101. A Jetsetter is better insulated than my SX and is a bit smaller so I don't think your temp loss would be as much as mine in the same environment. The fact that you are indoors which means its warmer and there is no wind, the hot tub should have no issue maintaining the desired temperature or within a degree or so. As ratchett said, you need a dedicated 120V 20A outlet. Jet performance will be identical whether you run 120V or 240V. Only difference is how long it will take to heat the water and how much temperature loss you have during use.

It was made during the 2nd quarter of 2013.

I cannot imagine how your cover survived 10 years without cover plate. I would never use a CoverCradle without a cover that has the plates. At this point, a either ordering a cover with the plates or a different cover lift are really the only options.

It is odd. Of all other brands I had experience with before Hot Spring and Caldera, rarely would I ever see a circulation pump trip the breaker. 2016 Pulse would not have had ozone standard, would have to have been added.

Heater is on the 20A on this hot tub. 30A powers everything else. With Hot Spring / Caldera, whenever I hear of the 30A tripping immediately, it is most often the circulation pump. Other than the circuit board, it is the first thing to get power. Could also be a bad breaker but if I were a betting person, I would go with circulation pump. Are you the original owner? If so, depending on when you purchased in 2016 this is likely still under warranty. Parts/Electronics are a 5 year warranty.

Could be a bad breaker but I think more likely a bad circulation pump. Disconnect the circulation pump from the circuit board and see if the breaker holds. If so, bad pump.

I assume you have either a Hot Spring or Caldera hot tub with dual breakers 20A/30A. If so, which model and how old? Does the 30A trip instantly when you reset it and if not, how long does it take to trip?

All you need to update the software is a flash drive and the software files. It's pretty simple to update the software and set the jumper settings. The software is proprietary so your dealer will need to provide you with the files and directions or if they won't, you can pm me your email and I can send you files and directions.

The Aria has more jets which is part of why the additional pump. On the Aria you will be able to run more jets with maximum pressure vs on the Sovereign you will have to choose which jets can get maximum pressure. See attached pics. As for salt vs no salt, that is a preference. I like the salt system and would choose it for myself. Salt will be a higher cost water care option vs regular chlorine or bromine.